New England B.S. Thread

Sorry to jump in just wanted to let guys know the next mudfest is july 11 turin n.y. i ran yesterday took 2nd place in fullsize stock. Side by side mud drags, from mini1(usually jeeps) to fullblown supermod aspirated( big motors,nitrous, scoop tires) its a fun family or party event.camping is avail. Held right on tug hill trails,if you want to wheel before or after. Check timberview mudfest .com

 

Everything but the BCG, which is only another $115-ish. It's a 20". No info on manufacturer but he doesn't buy cheap stuff, I can tell ya that much. I'll let you know more about it when I get it. He's shipping Monday.

He had it on his AR, shot about 100 rounds through it, and decided to get a 24" barrel for it. He put a crazy scope and stuff on it. It's really cool!

 

That clutch pedal squeak that's common for the manual, sounds like it's coming from inside the transmission now.

 

For me Eric . I got to the point where wheeling the Tacoma and breaking it and trying to get it fixed so I could make it to work on Monday was a pain in my ass . Now the trail rig can sit in my garage while I fix it when I have free time and I don't have to worry about getting to work. Plus parts are a lot cheaper for the 4Runner then a new Tacoma .

 

Oh boy....

 

So I did my first lap with the lift. Truck tracks quite well on the highway so I think once I get aligned I'm not going to sweat the caster number much if it's on the low end of the range.

Unsure if I've got the dreaded differential vibration or if I'm just hearing things (I tend to do that). I swear I hear something at only about 45 mph, above and below that I've got nothing. If the radio is on I don't hear it and I'm not feeling a thing in the truck, so I think I'm going to let it slide.

Definitely going to need some steps for it as there's no way my wife / Mom will be able to easily get into it otherwise. I suppose I should make some concessions.

 

I saw some new steps on Craigslist today. I'll see if I can find the link.
edit: @MikeyMcFly
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/pts/5061970700.html

 

Appreciate the link, but I think I want the OEM ones that have the black plastic cover over them as opposed to the rail kind.

I thought about sliders, but I don't think I will ever really need them at this point. I don't plan on being in an area with the truck where the sliders will save me and I don't want to weld/drill the frame to get a set of sliders on. I've seen the ones that don't require drilling the frame, but the last time I read anything about those, I wasn't sure if it could support the weight of the truck (if you were using a hi-lift for example). So my logic is that unless I want a set of slider looking steps, the OEMs are the way to go.

I like the N-Fab/Predator style well enough, but it appears that those have a bad reputation for rust unless you go stainless, which doesn't really match the theme I'm looking for. So that being said, I'll try and hold out for the OEM style.

 

Sound went away. Maybe because I haven't used it in a few days.

 

Sorry grabbed the wrong one. I saw you wanted the other kind in another post. This one couldn't link it for some reason. But this is the post.

 

I saw those earlier. Part number is for a double cab I'd be very, very tempted if they were for the AC. The DC ones end up extending back past the cab/bed gap on the AC which doesn't look all that great.

In a perfect world I'd have a killer set of sliders with a kickout, but if Toyota is doing frame replacements, I don't want to have that be a reason to invalidate me later on.

 

I've seen more and more of the fab guys plating their sliders more for use of steps so that option is definitely there if you like it. They all seem to have no drill bolt on designs too. I think within the last month I've seen BAMF, SOS, Pelfreybilt, and Relentless all post pics showing them. The smaller fab shops will pretty much customize it however you want too. Just spoke to Billy at BruteForce and he's down to a 3 week lead time at the moment.

 

If you Nfab, and paint the the right way right out of the box, they'll last a long time. Anything steel will rust up here if not cared for. I had an Nfab light bar that i bedlinered right out of the box and it held up great. I also siliconed in the end caps so crap couldn't get inside the tubes.

 

I'm going this route when my factory steps rust off.....

 

I would love to do that route, but unfortunately right now budget is definitely a concern, and spending 300-400+ for a set of quality sliders is a lot less attractive than spending $120-150 for a set of OEM steps on CL, or finding someone on here crazy enough to trade them for my OEM suspension.

I never thought that route, but that makes perfect sense. I was actually surprised to find the edges of my light bar starting to get a little orange. The finish looks great but who knows how long it will last. A proper painting will solve that though. I'm not wild about the design, but if the right priced set shows up, why not.

 

Damn you Denis!

 

Thanks! Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I completely missed this posting.

It's the return line, I believe. The smaller diameter, longer one that runs above and along the rack itself. It's a part rubber/part hard line. Here's a diagram of such. It's the line that starts off with part # 90080-46355 (which is not for the line itself.) Should I just replace the whole thing with a rubber fuel hose?

 

FYI - I was at Hollands pick and pull in Billerica on Saturday. They just got two 1st generation Tacomas, and an '00 4Runner, if anyone needs parts.

 

In my case it was worth it,i enjoy trying the hard stuff.
If you're going to seriously wheel it,it's gonna get expensive!
Last time i wheeled the limo it cost me $300. and the time before that was $600. and the truck sitting in the driveway all week.