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2010-2015 frames

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by toner, Jun 5, 2015.

  1. Jun 5, 2015 at 2:09 PM
    #1
    toner

    toner [OP] New Member

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    I have purchased a 2015 tacoma trd off road. I want to put a 6.8 Curtis snowplow on it. Does anyone know for sure that the frames on the tacoma has not changed back to a 2010 tacoma??
    Thanks for any help on this.
    Tony
     
  2. Jun 5, 2015 at 2:11 PM
    #2
    snowmanwithahat

    snowmanwithahat Well-Known Member

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    I'm fairly sure it's the same throughou 05 - 15
     
  3. Jun 5, 2015 at 3:04 PM
    #3
    skiergd011013

    skiergd011013 Well-Known Member

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    I read on here somewhere that they switched frame manufacturers for 2009 and up, and toyota sued "Dana" company for supplying inferior frames.
     
  4. Jun 5, 2015 at 3:07 PM
    #4
    Noahs2015Taco

    Noahs2015Taco aka TheOverlandingDad

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    I'm praying that's the case. I really like my Taco, and I plan on keeping it for 10-15+ years. But all these threads of rusted out 05-07 frames really has me worried.
     
  5. Jun 5, 2015 at 3:13 PM
    #5
    skiergd011013

    skiergd011013 Well-Known Member

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    yes. Look at the years. Those frames were supplied by dana. Im sure toyota addressed the problem.....hence the lawsuit. here ya gohttp://mobile.reuters.com/article/idUSTRE70B7KZ20110112
     
    Noahs2015Taco[QUOTED] likes this.
  6. Jun 8, 2015 at 8:56 AM
    #6
    munkiemec

    munkiemec Well-Known Member

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    The same plow mount should work fine all the way from 2005-2015. There are some different threads in some bolt holes when you compare 2005-2008 with 2009+. You will need at least a 7' plow -- 6'8" will not clear the wheels at full angle.
     
  7. Jun 8, 2015 at 9:15 AM
    #7
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    The frame is still shit. It still rusts out. I am having minor rust issues on my 12 and I live in California AWAY from the water at that!!! I've had to take a rattle can to the frame several times already.
     
  8. Jun 8, 2015 at 9:15 AM
    #8
    munkiemec

    munkiemec Well-Known Member

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    The "abuse" depends on the driver, and the actual plowing application. Probably best not to use it for clearing mall parking lots. Don't ram it into huge piles of snow. When the blade is down, the transfer case is in 4L. Plow with the snow when possible, rather than waiting for 2 feet of accumulation. Don't drive it like a maniac when CARRYING the blade -- take it very easy over speed bumps. It does add significant load to the front suspension when lifted. Plowing itself does transfer the snow load directly to the truck's frame, so take it easy. If its an automatic, limit the transmission to second gear (low range), and make sure it does its 1-2 shift BEFORE the snow load packs on, and let off if its about to downshift (then limit to 1 and try again). AT shifting under snow plow load is very bad. In fact, for AT, probably a good idea to install a transmission temperature gauge and maybe an additional cooler. If the temperature starts going too high, give it a rest. Its better to spin the engine faster than to add extra torque load onto a torque converter.

    Almost all snowplow related truck damage is caused by the operator pushing it too hard.

    If the driver doesn't drive abusively, a Tacoma can push a plow forever. Its got plenty of structure for the job.
     
    scottalot[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Jun 8, 2015 at 9:17 AM
    #9
    munkiemec

    munkiemec Well-Known Member

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    What are you expecting a rattle can to do for you? Those certainly won't stop rust... or even slow it down. Clean all the rust off, por15 it, then give it 2 or 3 coats of tar (including inside), and oil bath it every year.
     
  10. Jun 8, 2015 at 10:17 AM
    #10
    12TRDTacoma

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    I know you have to wire the rust off. I do that before I hit it. I dont expect it to last long, but given that the areas I do hit it at is not in direct line of wind so I expect it to stay a little longer. They really fucked up this frame when they made it. I feel bad for the people living by the salt belt.
     
  11. Jun 8, 2015 at 10:19 AM
    #11
    munkiemec

    munkiemec Well-Known Member

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    You mean like me? I have no rust AT ALL on mine after 5 salty winters.
    My point is that you need to coat it with something a heck of a lot better than rattle can to actually protect it.
     
  12. Jun 8, 2015 at 11:44 AM
    #12
    12TRDTacoma

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    Yeah, I agree. I know its a quick solution but geez that stuff comes off insanely fast.
     
  13. Jun 8, 2015 at 11:49 AM
    #13
    js312

    js312 Well-Known Member

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    My frame still looks fantastic. I have a late 2011. The hitch and skid plate, on the other hand, rust quickly! I've sanded the rust spots off and repainted numerous times now.

    I also heard the 2009+ frames were made by a different company.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2015
  14. Jun 8, 2015 at 11:51 AM
    #14
    munkiemec

    munkiemec Well-Known Member

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    Hino, I think, of which Toyota owns 50.1%. So you could say that they are now made "in house". Previously it was Dana.

    At some point (I forget the details and exact model year), they were also *significantly* reinforced. Part of me wants to say 2009, but another part says 2007...
     
  15. Jun 8, 2015 at 6:51 PM
    #15
    skiergd011013

    skiergd011013 Well-Known Member

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    oh good. So i have the updated frame.
     
  16. Jun 8, 2015 at 7:17 PM
    #16
    patbegley

    patbegley Well-Known Member

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    I'm still Krown spraying mine annually.

    I get shivers just thinking how minty I will look under there come 2025
     
  17. Jun 9, 2015 at 5:05 PM
    #17
    wrangler2155

    wrangler2155 Member

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    I didnt take any chances on my new frame so being a tech there I was able to prep and coat the frame with some por15. Now its like glass. Love it.
    CEC51CCE-6F2E-4C87-8B7F-C605043ABF9B_8369698ea329afff69a4ae8134b8430aca051e8a.jpg
    EFFDC77A-F199-46C2-842A-385217D418F8_34bf796dffc847f4ad81550323bf403b13f90e60.jpg
    AC5D79DA-CEE3-4A33-9224-2EE46965CE5F_ea0aab534308a12d5afea36ed58abfa5a7e71a01.jpg
     
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  18. Jun 9, 2015 at 5:33 PM
    #18
    skiergd011013

    skiergd011013 Well-Known Member

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    the frame doesn't have to be rusty for that stuff to work??(p.o.r. = paint on rust). Theres a shop where i live that does a full p.o.r treatment. He told me they guarantee it for ten years. I may look into it.
     
  19. Jun 18, 2015 at 9:56 AM
    #19
    munkiemec

    munkiemec Well-Known Member

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    Did you get into the front boxed section of the frame with a sprayer (i.e., inside the frame)? That's where it needs it the most. These frames actually do have a significant weakness up there. Look through the front cab mounts. At the back of the cab mounts, there are holes exposing the inside of the frame. Right in front of those cab mounts is the back side of the front wheels, where salt water sprays off any time you're driving in the winter. Yep, the salt just shoots off the wheels, up into the cab mounts, and gets funnelled into the inside of the boxed section of the frame. Personally, I chose to close off that access to keep the salt out altogether. In fact, I carefully sealed up all the holes running into the front half of the frame. You really don't want to have any salt water in there.
     

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