New England B.S. Thread

Ignore my previous post that's a different ballgame. I had a similar situation in my other house and this is by far not the way to do it, but it worked to seal up the gap. I used large gap filler expanding foam. Once it was dry I used a carving knife to to cut it all flush to the chimney and up against the siding. Sprayed it with that clear flex seal and painted to match the trim.
The real way to do this would be to remove the siding and flash and reside it properly, but that is much more costly and time consuming.

 

I was leaning towards doing the same thing fully knowing it is NOT the correct way of dealing with it. I have a few cans of that "great stuff" expanding foam and was considering just having a field day up there. I am building a sweet bat box and am going to attach it to the chimney right next to that gap, but want to seal it off around 10 PM or so when most of the bats should be out.

I have no access to that area from inside the house, but luckily the ceiling in that bedroom shows absolutely no signs of water damage (and same with the walls). Once it is sealed off, I am planning on cutting out a few inspection holes in the ceiling to see what sort of damage is there, but not before I know the bats are either gone or dead.

 

Yeah just found this.

 

If you want something that you can keep up than do it yourself with Duplicolor bed liner. DO NOT USE the Duplicolor bed armor! That stuff stains and will not come clean. Use the bed liner, it's sold almost everywhere (Advanced Auto, Autozone) it's in a blue can. Just make sure to prep it good, I primed my sliders with Rustoleum automotive primer but now that I know people I would have it primed by them with epoxy primer and then use the bed liner over it. GL

 

I used self etching primer on my sliders and rustolem bedliner. With a few coats of paint on top to protect from fading. Why the epoxy primer, stronger/more durable?

 

How are they holding up? I did not have good luck with the Rustoleum Bedliner on my sliders, it chipped off from stuff being thrown off the front tires. I had the same stuff on my light bar though and it did great.

Good epoxy paints are extremely durable and do a great job of sealing the material you apply it to.

 

I hit all the leading edges of my sliders with a few coats of spray on undercoating. It was duller than the flat black rattle can I used, but held up really well especially with no front mud flaps. It doesn't look as nice as flat black rattle can, but is a hell of a lot tougher

 

Before I sold mine, I did the same to them. I did the entire underside with rubberized undercoating. I'd be curious to see how the underside looks now after some use.

 

Thanks for the info guys! So far so good, I've got a couple of touch up spots where I scraped them up during install but all the rest has cured and lasted pretty well. It's only been a couple of months so who knows what will happen later on down the line.
I think I'll go the epoxy route on the bumper since that will be taking on more head on debris during driving, but also something I can touch up after a trail ride too.

 

Yes, I know some people that have body shops and they use the real epoxy primer (not the stuff in the rattle can) and that stuff is super durable. Much stronger than stuff in a can but if your going to do it yourself use that automotive Rustoleum primer. It's pretty good stuff and you can get it at Walmart. Just make sure that you wear gloves when using it because if you get it on your hands it will take a week to get it off.
Powder coat is good but if it's not done right it can rust from behind or flake off because it's not adhering correctly. Good powder coating is very durable but costs big $$$.

 

Yeah, I got my rear bumper powder coated and it's already peeling and rusting around the hitch from after only a couple of uses. Don't want to go that route again.

 

Who did your powder coating?

 

I can't remember the name of the company, but I think they were in Holliston.
Edit: The body shop that fixed the truck after my fender bender, subbed out the powder coating.

 

Yeah, powder coating correctly takes a lot of steps. Most places skip one or two of them to save time and money. Only 2 places around that I know that do a good job at is in New Bedford and Shirley MA.

 

For those without a compressor and spray gun, USC makes a 2K epoxy primer in a spray can. There's a pin on the bottom of the can that pierces an internal bladder allowing the epoxy and activator to mix. Once mixed, you have to use it in the alloted pot life. Not cheap, but it's an option for better lasting protection without using a spray gun. I've used the 2K clear from the same manufacturer with really good results.

 

For those without a compressor and spray gun, USC makes a 2K epoxy primer in a spray can. There's a pin on the bottom of the can that pierces an internal bladder allowing the epoxy and activator to mix. Once mixed, you have to use it in the alloted pot life. Not cheap, but it's an option for better lasting protection without using a spray gun. I've used the 2K clear from the same manufacturer with really good results.

 

How the hell does one get a double post???

 

x2 on the Duplicolor bed coating,it looks good and is very duraable.

 

Where in Shirley? Im looking to have my other set of wheels also powdercoated and my skid plate needs to get done again?

 

Sorry they are in Clinton
http://www.centralmasspowdercoating.com/

Here's the place I use in New Bedford
http://powder-pro.net/