Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Even after reading all of this thread I still need to ask if this sketch is correct for installation with a Blue Sea ML-ACR?
(Please don't quote the sketch in a reply if its wrong; I want to fix any errors before it steers someone wrong.)

 

Good start. Just a couple of things though:

- There's also a ground coming from the alternator/starter
- You'll want to hook up the power to the Blue Sea aux fuse panel (not just ground), I presume you'll want this hooked up to the aux battery
-I can see why you'd want the amp hooked up to straight to the aux battery. Depending on the amperage of your light bar, you can possibly hook that up to your aux fuse panel

 

Thanks for the feedback MJ. I added the OEM Alternator ground. I also boxed and labeled the accessories to show it better as a general group rather than an area with detailed connections.
I added the OEM fuse box in case anyone thinks that is not needed anymore.

 

Thought I'd add this here. A post from my build thread.

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It's about time that I document and update the whole dual battery and wiring process. Not much truck stuff just a much of wiring, mounting and routing information for those that are interested.

WARNING: Lots of shitty photos to follow. If anyone needs clarification on what you are looking at, feel free to ask.

First find out where you want to put the battery. I chose behind the passenger seat on the floor since I removed the rear jump seats anyways.


I used some stainless "footmans loops" from the local West Marine. There are a few options but I initially planned on getting 4x 1" loops for two straps.


You can also use some of the battery tie down kits but be sure they have metal loops and not the plastic. Plastic will break on you. I was unable to find any of the metal ones local so I went the route I did.


Used this to strap it down. It works REALLY well.


Once everything is on hand, mark where you want to mount the footmans loop and drill the holes for them.






Make a small slit in the carpet. Just enough to fit the strap through


Bolts from the underside with fender washers. Used all stainless hardware.


With the exhaust heat shield back in place.


I had planned on running the battery cable from front to rear under the truck along chassis. For one, it would require more battery cable and two, it would be exposed and possibly get caught on something. Decided to route it from engine bay, through firewall and into cab. From there, behind pedals and along the trans tunnel.




You get really good at removing all interior panels during this whole process. You can see the battery cable to the left of the shifter.


Got some Military Battery Terminals and boots from Prime4x4
Measuring up where to terminate the cable


Once cable was cut to length with the eyelets they were wrapped with braided sleeve the entire length and some split loom anywhere it would make any kind of contact. Put corresponding adhesive shrink wrap on ends to identify polarity rather than buying red and black cable. Everything used is marine grade.


Also used some door edge trim on all edges where the cable might come in contact. Just an added precaution in addition to the split loom.


ML-ACR mounted on top of factory fuse box then cable routed through firewall.






Positive cable in. Next was the Ground. Tried to keep it short. The shortest point would have been to the seat bracket bolt. Some say it's okay to use, other disagree. Just a bit further was a factory grounding point under the center console. Plus it looked cleaner.




Also wrapped and shrink wrapped the ends.


It seems all the factory ground points have an "E" on the bolt.


Since space was limited with my setup but still wanted to protect the system in case of a short I went with an inline battery terminal fuse. After reading up on these, they are pretty legitimate. Mainly used in marine equipment, they can withstand the high amp spikes with starting a motor but still protect the system in overload situations. I ended up going down in fuse size to match cable.


Cable ends from battery to fuse block.


Battery all strapped in with all cables ran to and from it.








That's it for the battery, cable and ML-ACR mounting, install and routing. It took me a while since work kept me busy during that time. Made lots of trips to the local West Marine for cable and ends. I just used their work bench at the store to do all the cuts and crimps.

I'll have more on the ML-ACR switch wiring soon.



Nate

 

Great write up. Super clean install!

 

Thanks Gary!
I'll update this later on, but for your information, I used at DPDT switch from OTRATTW and only used the black and red wire from the ML-ACR to the switch. Even with the factory switch, I don't think the brown is needed.

 

nate87 which blue Sea ML-acr is that???

Did you purachase this one

$199 Blue Sea Systems 7700 SOLENOID ML 12V RBS

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...sim_200_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=15GAX0J7ZQCJYQ9R5Q2P



or this one





what is the difference between the two besides the switch?

 

The second one. Item 7622. After looking at the diagrams for each on the blue sea website, the first one ML-RBS(magnetic latching remote battery switch), is simply to connect a battery to the motor or load and be switched.

Item 7622 ML-ACR(magnetic latching automatic charging relay) is the one you want. It automatically combines batteries when being charged and isolates them while being discharged. It senses the voltage in both batteries to determine which to do. It can also be used to remotely(think red switch) or manually(yellow latch) combine or isolate both batteries.

Hope that helps.

 

ok thank you.

 

I am currently running T-max 47-3800 dual battery system but I am thinking of switching to the blue sea ml-acr.

 

How have you all extended your wiring from the alternator to the battery? The stock wire won't reach the first battery in the Columbia Overland tray. Do you simply run a new longer connection? Are they any local sources for large gauge wiring? Or is online the best source? I'm hoping to install my set this weekend or next. Thanks.

 

I got an aftermarket kit and had to make my own after getting the kit. The kit has a couple large gauge cables and they I cut them to the length that I needed. I would suggest going to a welding supply shop and asking them.

 

my associated at droppinghz can assist you in wire, I know he has a big inventory currently and has what you need for a balling price. You can buy by the foot as well and has categories based on that length for per length

 

I had to bring the stock cable up underneath the rear bar of the kit to make the connection. That saved about an inch of distance and even then it was barely long enough. It worked out fine in the end but may not work for everyone given how little slack is available.

 

So I finally got my dual battery installed...it's not pretty but functional. I don't have the wiring skills that some of you have. I'm using the BlueSea ML-ACR, and I was wondering if you wired the 8 pin connection to the aux battery per the drawing or to an ignition controlled source. I am not sure if you could have a situation where the batteries are combined and have the LED stay on unnecessarily.

 

Im working on setting up a deal with a company for all wiring needs and all you'd do is use the special code. You can buy, buy the length you need and they categorize that length at different rates

 

I did wire the 8 pin to the aux and it works fine. The LED will stay on for a short period after shutoff under some circumstances....still not sure what exactly (short drives maybe?) but it is not a big deal to me. I am sure it says why it is on in the manual but I don't remember. Stays on maybe 10 minutes max. I am very impressed by the ML-ACR and the switch combo - nice tight functional system.

As for your cables, do you have a WestMarine nearby? I bought some cables and connections there and used the crimper they have in store for customer use. I basically set up a little work area for myself after paying for what I needed and worked there for an hour. It worked out great for the 2 & 4 AWG cables. You will pay a little more for the materials but that crimper saved me a ton of trouble so definitely worth while. Plus if you over or under buy the replacements are right there.

 

This was the big 3 kit that I got......

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/shok-industries-big3-wiring-gb.309921/

And the crimper that I picked up....

Best Choice Products MechanicalRotatingDieCompoundW

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUPK40Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

 

figure i'll update here as well...did some wiring upgrades and aux block relocation recently... just picked up a couple 50' spools of 1/0 for the job along with some new battery terminals, ring teriminals and a 12 port blue sea to replace my 2-6 slot blocks...

before...



moved the aux block to the passenger side and swapped out the positive cables from main to aux and aux battery to breaker




finished up the grounds yesterday


and even after the S/C i was able to keep my compressor in that location...


items for swap:
XS Power XPFLEX0BK-50 XP/XS Flex Iced Black 50' Spool High Current Battery Cable (grounds)
XS Power XPFLEX0BL-50 XP/XS Flex Iced Blue 50' Spool High Current Battery Cable (positives)
4 ROCKFORD FOSGATE RFDB1 0/1/4-Gauge 8 Ga Positive/Negative Car Battery Terminal
DB Link 1/0 AWG Gauge Gold Ring Set Screw Battery Ring Terminals (used for connections to the battery monitor system)
Xscorpion RT0GP 10 Pack of Gray 1/0 Gauge Platinum-Plated Ring Terminals w/ 5/16" Hole (used for grounds)
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover

 

Can anyone confirm if the ato battery tray will fit with hids?