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Chirp Sound

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by HipHead, Jun 18, 2015.

  1. Jun 18, 2015 at 10:37 AM
    #1
    HipHead

    HipHead [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey Folks,

    2009 Tacoma.

    With clutch not engaged there is a constant chirping sound.

    With clutch engaged the chirp temporarily goes away.

    Any ideas?
     
  2. Jun 18, 2015 at 10:38 AM
    #2
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

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    could be a bad throw out bearing
     
    wsurunner, just2wd and scottalot like this.
  3. Jun 18, 2015 at 10:39 AM
    #3
    dakotasyota

    dakotasyota Just a Fringe of the Ging in your Minge

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    Throw out bearing :(
     
  4. Jun 18, 2015 at 10:41 AM
    #4
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

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  5. Jun 18, 2015 at 10:42 AM
    #5
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Agree with most likely is the throw out bearing. But I've driven them a long time after they started making noise (on other marquees), as long as the noise didn't become significantly worse. Generally they don't grenade too soon, so that allows you a bit of time to plan a repair.
     
  6. Jun 18, 2015 at 11:29 AM
    #6
    HipHead

    HipHead [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks folks. Anyone know typical hours required to install throwout bearing upgrade/repair kit?
     
  7. Jun 18, 2015 at 11:30 AM
    #7
    dakotasyota

    dakotasyota Just a Fringe of the Ging in your Minge

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    10 hour day for you to do it if it's your first time. You have to drop the tranny.
     
  8. Jun 18, 2015 at 11:34 AM
    #8
    DriverSound

    DriverSound Señor Member

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    Might as well install a better clutch at the same time
     
  9. Jun 18, 2015 at 5:58 PM
    #9
    Jason J

    Jason J Well-Known Member

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    I have a 2008 that had the chirp for most of 108,000 miles, with just a stiffer spring in the clutch slave it has been silent up to its current 124,000 miles. It's got the original clutch and throwout bearing. Just so you know the TSB clutch slave already has a stiffer spring then the stock slave had. I had some springs made that are even stiffer then the TSB slave cylinder uses, but if you want to try a cheap easy solution I would buy the TSB slave or the current repair kit and give that a shot. I think most people blame the throwout bearing when the problem is not enough pressure on the pressure plate fingers-or mis-aligned fingers which appears to come from use. I think you'll see that most people that replaced the throwout bearing also had the pressure plate replaced which I think works for a while until the fingers start wavering in alignment. Obviously the quill on the transmission affects this alignment and pressure also, but in my case I'm sure my quill is heavily damaged but the bearing is silent with more pressure. Just my .02 good luck!
     
  10. Jun 23, 2015 at 9:06 AM
    #10
    HipHead

    HipHead [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks again for the information folks.

    What kind of work is required to replace springs for the clutch slave? Newbie here, does the tranny need to be dropped?

    Has anyone installed the sleeve bearing repair kit by URD? Results?
     
  11. Jun 23, 2015 at 9:07 AM
    #11
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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    stock
    you have a canary inside your transmission.
     
  12. Jun 23, 2015 at 9:07 AM
    #12
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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    just kidding, there was a guy selling a throwout bearing on here last week.
     
  13. Jun 23, 2015 at 12:17 PM
    #13
    wsurunner

    wsurunner Well-Known Member

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    Don't let it come to this, though. I had a throw out bearing grenade on me and it blew a hole in the transmission. It was a GM car, not a Toyota, but an extra few days/miles on the bearing may be the difference between inconvenience and replacing a tranny housing.
     
  14. Jun 23, 2015 at 7:03 PM
    #14
    Jason J

    Jason J Well-Known Member

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    The clutch slave mounts to the outside of the transmission. Remove heat shield 3-bolts, remove clutch fluid line at slave, remove slave 2-bolts. This is why I said try the cheap easy fix first. If you can bleed brakes you can do this. One thing to clarify you need to remove the lower clutch line completely don't just disconnect one end and bend it!
     
  15. Aug 11, 2015 at 3:54 PM
    #15
    Sworthen16

    Sworthen16 Member

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    Hate to take the cast off, but like many others I am too in need of some guidance on this issue. Just hit 100k or will within the next few weeks and my bird started singing. I'm leaning towards the urd kit and a new clutch along with the tsb parts. Any imput on this decision? I'm all ears if there is a easy/cheaper/getsitdone alternative. Any members racked up miles with this combo? Also I only see in the tsb that I should only need the fork guide #31236-35080 and the new slave release #31470-35181, does this seem right? Thanks for any imput in advance.
     
  16. Aug 11, 2015 at 5:01 PM
    #16
    HipHead

    HipHead [OP] Well-Known Member

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    On of the previous posts mentions to replace spring for clutch slave putting more pressure on pressure plate.

    Why do new clutch?

    Is that because when the tranny is dropped might as well do clutch too?
     
  17. Aug 12, 2015 at 3:14 AM
    #17
    Sworthen16

    Sworthen16 Member

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    I need a new clutch anyway, but the new slave is supposed to have a 1/4" longer rod and a stiffer tension then the oem.
     
  18. Jan 4, 2016 at 1:13 PM
    #18
    HipHead

    HipHead [OP] Well-Known Member

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    quick update here ...

    Purchased a new slave and installed yesterday.

    The most difficult part was unscrewing the nut that fastens the hardline into the slave. With considerable corrosion we had to use heat for the nut to loosen.

    Anyway installed the new slave that appears to have more tension than the old slave.

    Initial impression with only a few miles and the chirp can no longer be heard.

    :)
     
    lo2hi likes this.

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