5100's all around and an AAL?

I believe the cut off for oem specs is 2.7. Optimal for lifted seems to be 2.5-3. With a lift and stock UCA's, caster is most likely in the 1-2.

 

So like a dumbass I didn't get a print out from them when they did it. Would it be worth it to take it to an alignment shop to see if they can do anything or should I just wait until I have new UCAs?

 

I have never had a shop not give me a print out. You can go to a shop that checks the alignment for free, they can show you the screen but they do not give print outs for just checking.

 

Okay great, thanks for the advice!

 

Your probably not going to get the 2.5 to 3 inches of castor with a 3" lift and stock UCA's to alleviate the bump steer. IMO you will probably have to wait it out for the LR UCA's which have plenty of caster and camber adjustments to get you where you need to be and yes most good alignment shop will provide a print out of your numbers. you also have to tell them what your number should be 0 toe, 0 camber & 2.5 at least for castor. Good luck

 

In the exact same situation as the OP. 5100's, set at 0 with only thing that is different for me is I have a 4 banger... Would the 885 coils be too stiff for the difference in weight to justify going with 884's?

 

The top plates don't alter the ride, they get placed above the top hat and thus the only change that occurs is your entire strut assembly is positioned further down. 1/4" plates are fine and won't over extend and 1/2" ones are pretty much the same, personally I wouldn't use a top plate thicker than this.

Select your coil based on the desired lift and use just the 1/4" plate on the drivers side for the lean. With all the different coils to choose from and the adjustability of the shocks there no need to worry longer studs and thick spacers.

 

Thanks for the reply. So with 5100's at 0, 885s, top plate spacers 1/4 on one side and 1/2 on the drivers side.. I'll be good, and should be able to get a good alignment and not worry about my boots going to crap?

 

I've only had the lean (1/4 spacer) on the driver side and the fins on the CV boots had about a millimeter of space before touching. Having the fins not touch will prevent the fins from making groves on the boots. The key here is not to have the fins touch as even slightly, they will eventually carve a groove on the boots and will lead to tearing. To get around this with a higher lift (more than 2.5") some members did the boot slide mod.

 

You ever sell any wheels in a parking lot?

 

Random.

 

Haha. I think I met him in a summit racing and bought his stock wheel for my wife's fj.

 

I thought it was some sort of police sting.

 

^ looks like what i need!, but still have a few questions and i hope it's okay to jump in here... just to reiterate what i have read on many threads here,
i have a 05 prerunner double cab, 110,000 miles, completely stock. wanting AAl's because i tow a small trailer for work and why not a small lift at the same time.
most say use 885 coils. worried about the UCA thing people talk about. i do not plan bigger tires any time soon, just tired of the rear bump stops being very close to the frame.
thanks for any advice you can give me. i don't want to buy a kit before i completely understand what i need.

 

I suggest 884 coils for about a 2" lift if you're worried about the UCA's and alignment. A good shop should still get your caster at the 2 range. AAL will lift the back end but if you tow, it will eventually lose it's arc.

 

Yep that was me. Lol. The FJ looks good with those new wheels and tires.

 

Not to hijack my own thread, but when turning into my parking lot the past week (only while turned and hitting the drain dip in the road) I hear a clink that sounds like metal on metal. It makes a loud noise that sounds like it's coming from my front drivers side tire or shocks area. Could just be dirt n rocks from my recent camping trip, or something else. Any ideas or things to look for that could be causing this?

Thanks!

 

Look for any rub marks or possible contact ponts. Did you do a sway bar relocate?

 

Nope.. the past owner maybe. He did add those small spacers from my photos a few pages back

 

Look at your picture on the first page. Your second picture where the sway bar looks real close to your coil assembly, that's usually where it hits and prevented by the sway bar relocates which moves it about an inch forward.