Camshaft sprocket bolt is stronger than me

I have to replace my head gaskets. I thought it was just overheating because of a stuck thermostat, I replaced the thermostat and the water pump but it overheated again but only on the highway (was able to drive in town fine). My suspicion was confirmed when I took the timing chain cover off this time around, there was white frothy buildup around the water jacket ports, which is pretty much an indicator that head gaskets are bad.

I may have to resurface my cylinder heads as I hear that is often needed in the case of gaskets. Found a local machine shop that will do it for $85 / head but I will do the straightedge and feeler gauge test first. What i would really like to know is why the head gaskets went bad. The truck does have 120K mi but I'm not sure that's a valid explanation.

While digging in for the head gaskets, I also noticed that my air intake was coated with carbon blowby and I understand that causes pinging. I'm not sure if that can be attributed to the head gasket failure.

It's been a hell of a learning experience. When life hands me lemons, I learn how to make limoncello.

 

Before buying a new compresor, just buy the gun. Yes, you will run out of air fast but it's not like you are doing this for a living or you would already have a good compressor. It will burn through the air stored in your compressor in 2-3 bolts, then you will have to wait for it to build back up. Not a big deal, if it bothers you, you can always buy the compressor later. I have a

$399 DEWALT Air Compressor, 225-PSI Max, Hand Carry with Wheels, 4-1/2 Gallon (D55146)

DeWalt 55146 <- link, it does just fine, after 3-8 lug nuts depending on how tight they are it chugs for a 20 seconds or so. Never had any issues with power. It runs an IR

$145 Ingersoll Rand 231HA-2 1/2" Air Impact Wrench, 2" Ext Anvil, Super Duty, 600 ft-lb Torque, Friction Ring Retainer, Pistol

231HA-2 <-link just fine when set at 95-100psi.

 

Well then I'll be fine cause I don't really see myself doing more than 1-2 bolts at a time. However, it was noted that, in addition to size, the air pressure is critical. Mine does only up to 130 psi and it was mentioned I need really 150

 

Gotcha, went through that myself last fall, a lot of work, but for sure a good learning experience. Take a read through the thread I linked, has a full part list, tips etc. if you haven't ordered all the parts yet. Good luck!

 

Don't know why they said 130psi... the IR231 recommended operating pressure is 90.

 

Yeah, I ordered a full OEM gasket replacement kit for $200.

 

Main cause yes, but in my case, the 2004 4Rs had a fairly common defect, always resulting in a misfire mostly in cylinder 6. There is a new part number for the HG that superseded it, so it is suspected that Toyota realized a design flaw and changed it.

 

Yeah, i figured that would be one of the main reasons. I still maintain that my stuck thermostat led to the cooling system failure, which then blew the head gaskets.

Are the Tacoma cylinder heads made of aluminum ? I think they are.

 

Because it's hard to know that they were not damaged in the first place by reasons other than overheating. It's like the chicken and the egg

 

Mine has never overheated, nor did 99% of the other 4rs with the misfire. The misfire is the key here, sure you can blow the HG and warp the heads from overheating, but without an on overheat, no reason for the HG to shit itself.

 

Yes, the 1GR-FE is all aluminum block and heads.

 

another reason that I am doubting that maybe the cooling system may not have failed is because i was getting a P0010 engine code that morning, which resolves to something related to the oil control valves. maybe the froth byproduct of blown gaskets got stuck in one of the oil control valves or something. just a theory. it's all water under the bridge at this point

 

hmm, i though my engine block was cast iron

 

Gotcha, I missed the backstory.

 

http://www.jimslimstools.com/Produc...LaibZ04YB_h3VcXemwattGQpnm4pjHd8UIxoC3d_w_wcB

Anyone ever tried one of those? I've used them several times on really stuck bolts. Beat the crap out of it with a 4lb hammer. Sometimes the shock helps loosen, similar to an impact gun.

Maybe not a good idea on a cam shaft though? I've used them on crank pulley bolts before.

 

OP, your compressor will do fine for what you want to do. If the bolt doesn't come loose fairly quickly, it's probably not going to with an impact gun. Have you tried soaking the bolt with a good penetrate?

 

impact is impact

tiny tank, just run it till it empties, do it again.

almost...but nope

all aluminum but has cast iron cylinder liners. super thin [motor cannot be bored]

 

I know I am late to the party but OP are you sure you trying to turn bolt to correct direction. That bolt is only tightened at 74 lb-ft, so not that as bad. With extension it should let go. Hell Suspension bolts are at the same numbers and even with rust they turn with some leverage.

 

It should be, but it is much much tighter than that to break loose, this is a common issue with this bolt.

 

It is a regular thread bolt, right ? I was trying counter clockwise, which is the undo direction for a regular thread bolt.

Speaking of, is the drivebelt tensioner bolt the only one on the Taco that is reverse threaded ?