Hilux 167 Snorkel for 3.4L Tacoma

I could just put a piece of PVC inside the rubber hose. That would restrict air flow though. It would be much easier than cutting new tube and rubber hose

 

that's basically what I was saying you do. Except instead of using the whole length of the rubber hose/tube I was saying cut it into 2x pieces and just put it on the ends of the pvc to connect the pvc to the snorkel and air box.

 

Oh, I see what you mean. That may actually be easier than using the stock tubing. Something to think about....

 

A few of the supercharged 3rd gens over on t4r.org are having the rubber tube problem also. I will be supercharging my 4Runner soon and also want to take care of this issue. The Snorkel is great for the price. Only downside IMO is the smaller intake tubing and the rubber part of the tubing.

 

Well it works for my 4 runner at least. I had to put washers under the ditch lights so it would clear but it did fit without trimming anything.

Yep. It most definitely will. I can't gurantee the problem of collapsing elbow won't occur. I have a much different intake setup and I had to adjust many things to make the intake work. It will work just fine with the stock box though.

 

Thanks for chiming in. Did you have the same problem as I am having?

 

I have not but I also have a longer piece of intake tube inside the rubber hose on the intake side and I have a 2.7 so there's less airflow needed as well.

I thought of a hose clamp inserted and expanded inside the tube for a fix. It wouldn't restrict airflow too badly.

I wonder if some of the problem lies with the hoses kinked a little already. It would be easy to do while you're making sure you have a good seal and such. When I did mine the rubber hose slid on the snorkel side a good bit (2" or so) but it took some work to get the intake to seal up.

 

Just chiming in, newbie over here, but I'm one of the original guys on t4r having the collapse issue with my supercharged 3.4. I know that my intake piece isn't perfectly positioned and definitely giving me issues. I have moved the collapse from about 3000 to around 4500 rpm by using 2 hose clamps in the middle of the rubber tube. However through the whole power band I'm lacking about 4-5 lbs of boost with the deck plate closed (2.1 pulley around Denver gives me 8-10 lbs with the deck plate open depending on speed and rpms) I plan on just getting some 3" pvc and molding it with a heat gun and just using the rubber as couplers like you'd see on intercooler piping.

Another guy suggested using some epoxy spray once the piece is seated, that may be my cop out if I get to lazy to mess with the pvc. If I go this route, I may just tape of the ends before I spray the epoxy on, so I can still install and remove the house if needed

 

I was starting to lean towards using some PVC pipe in mine too. I haven't gotten the chance to try anything else lately and since I usually have my deckolate open, it isn't a super urgent problem.

 

I'm having a bit of a maintenance party this weekend, so i'll see what i can do to eliminate this without tearing up the rubber tube. I'm going to start by re-positioning the tube on the filter box and move my hose clamps to a different position. I may just end up going the epoxy route and just be done with it. I shouldn't need to ever really remove the snorkel anyways.

 

Let us know what you do and the results of it. I've already cut up my rubber tube, so I don't really care about that.

 

I have just ordered one of these. It gives a 1 month shipping time . When it arrives I'll look at using as much of the stock intake tube as possible. I also have a super charger.

Though about using a coiled spring like a slinky inside the tube to keep it from sucking closed? Or 1/4" or so pieces of PVC in the correct diameter glued inside the tube.

 

Thought about using PVC inside the tube, but then I thought it might restrict the airflow more than if I tried to fix the problem another way. I need a free weekend to really sit down with it and tinker until it works. I believe the one month shipping time is a drastic overestimate from what I have read. Mine came from another member though, so I don't know for sure. Do post up in here with your solution, or if you have anything to add to the install process that I didn't cover. I'm open to ideas, and would like to have this thread be as informative as possible!

 

Just a thought..... Old school radiator hoses used to come with a kind of a spring inside to prevent them from collapsing. Maybe something like that would work for your intake? It seems like a thin wire spring inside your rubber hose (like your slnky idea) would be less restrictive than PVC to me. Good luck!

 

Oh that's something to think about. Never crossed my mind! Thanks for the input!

 

I installed this snorkel on my non-SC'd 4Runner and also have the collapsing tube problem. I thought I had a bright idea by creating a coil out of galvanized solid hobby wire. (Much like what @cruiserkev was talking about.) I can't remember what gauge wire that I used. I wrapped it around a bottle to make the coil. But, the rubber tube is oval and my coil was round. So, I had to squash it to fit. It seemed to work at first. But, i the tube eventually started collapsing again. On the positive, as soon as I release the gas the coil springs the tube back out.

Back to the drawing board... Maybe heavier gauge wire.


Sunrise at GSMTR 2015 by _m_urph, on Flickr


Snorkel tube coil by _m_urph, on Flickr

 

Thanks for the input! Now I'll know not to try that method.

 

I used 2 coat hangers in the same method. No way negative pressure would collapse it....at least not off of our engines.

 

Are coat hangers stiffer than that other wire?

 

I would imagine so. Coat hangers are pretty thick as far as wire goes. Use the good copper color ones vs. The tiny white wire ones.

I also bent the wires so they stretched the rubber.