What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

When I had an E-locker swapped in, they accidently swapped in 4.10's in the front and 4.30's in the rear. had no issue offroad, but on snowy roads it handled like shit... any throttle input and the front wandered all over the place. it was a PITA to drive. wouldn't come out of 4 unless I popped the clutch from a dead stop. Oh and I had manual hubs so when they weren't locked it was no issue anyways...

 

The reason I'm asking is I may be picking up an entire front ADD diff with an ARB already installed for super cheap. But it's from and auto 3rd gen Runner so it's got 4.30 gears. As cheap as I'm getting it, it won't be the end of the world if I have to pull the locker and then pay to have it installed in mine but it would be easier if I could just swap the whole diff in and avoid the down time.

 

Ideally no difference is acceptable, but if it's emergency use you could use it for a very short time.
Or you could run 265/75 front and 265/70 rear.

Unless you're in a mud pit or on ice there will be a lot of driveline bind with the same size tires and those gears.

 

You should believe Ben. I wouldn't do it. Even if you plan to only ever use 4 wheel drive off road, your still going to put more bind on everything with the front pulling more than the rear. If it is as cheap as you say it is, just swap everything over to just 4:30 or 4:10.

 

Well you're saying the exact opposite of Ben.

I know people run different gear ratios all the time but I've never seen a 4% difference. It's always smaller (like 5.29 and 5.38, or 5.14 and 5.29). I was just checking. I'll probably just pull the locker and have it installed in my diff. Just didn't want to have down time.

 

I'd buy it, then buy a Elocker Rear from a runner with 4.30's and swap that in as well... not terribly hard to find

 

You want both ratios the same. Early Ford Bronco ran different ratios, one tooth difference between front and rear. Front spun slightly faster. I think it was an effort to make the squirrely, short wheel based mofo drive straight in the snow.

Or maybe it was just one of Ford's "better" idea's at the time.

 

I don't want an elocker. I already have an ARB in my 8.4

 

Redistribution of lights in process...lol

Two ways

I would not do that.

 

Just did the pinch weld mod on my passenger side preparing for my 285's that are being shipped. I need some help. I cut the plastic about 4 inches up and the across. That is where the big noticible pinch weld is. I used a dremel to cut the pinch weld ever inch or so and bend it over. Should this clear the 285's? Or do I need to cut up more?

 

You had to cut for 285s?

 

285/75/16 yes. Everyone I heard from say YES it's a must to cut and hammer the pinch weld

 

Only 1 way to find out
But from what ive experienced and heard it depends on actual size of tire(all tires are not the size they say they are)
Rim
Wheel spacers or not
Suspension
And alot of thing like wieght from bumpers or passengers and what not
Easiest way is to just bash it as far as you can out of the way and then just mount the tire and see if it rubs

 

Gotcha that's what I figured. They are BFG KM2 285/75/16 on 16x8 off-22 bs 3.625
I have 3" lift and no wheel spacers will be used. Stock bumpers.

ACTUAL TIRE SIZE - 33.1

 

More than likely youll be fine then
But i havnt run km2's so not sure
Im sure youll rub a heck of a lot less then i do right now though
3" lift
305/70r16x10
1" wheel spacers
Just got 1/4" spacers im swapping in and a 2"bl though so im trying to sort mine out too

 

Oh heck I will defentally not run THAT much

 

Alignment's a big factor, but if you're going to wheel, you've got a long ways to go. I did quite a bit more than that, including cutting off a majority of the pinch weld for 255/85s. Ended up having to cut further up, and hammer everything back.

Just did version 2.0 after I got tired of rubbing with 295/75s. Basically as much as you can do without tubbing, including cutting as much as possible, copious amounts of time with a 4lb BFH, and cleaning everything up with a flap disk and seam sealer:



Regardless, I would suggest cutting off all of the pinch weld as opposed to hammering it down.

 

darn. I will be doing some mild wheeling. So I reckon I need to get the dremel back out. I'm going to under coat it when I'm done so it stays protected. I'm in TX so rust is no issue but mud inside the opening is

 

I'd just cut it off too. But your not on a super wide tire so probably be okay. Took me 4 separate session to make mine not run back when I was on 33x12.5s