How To: Secondary Stand Alone Fuse Block Install

Yeah, technically speaking after looking at it, it all looks good... maybe try and tape off the exposed metal on the ends of the crimped on connectors there. The crimp ones I use have a plastic cover. Other than that, try a different fuse slot, maybe one that comes on with the running lights to see if it changes anything.

 

Also, what is that extra ground wire sticking out at the camera in the top photo? If thats not needed, cut it off. Less variables to worry about then

 

Initial impression was to leave it for future switched. But I since cut it off thinking it was hitting some metal below the center console, like in a screw or something.

The weird thing is i was running all the lights one night, and after a while they blew the fuse.

Next time I tried things I ran the ditch lights for 10 minutes, as soon as I hit the switch for my rack lights it blew the fuse. Im

 

What lights do you have? What are the watt ratings for one of each?

 

I have the hella 500ff which I believe to be the issue. 2 lights are 55w and the other two are 100w. So a total of 310 watts. But I'm under the impression that this does not make it to the switch.

 

What size fuse is in your auxiliary fuse block? 310 watts at 12 volts is about 25 amps. So you'd need a 25-30 amp fuse in there.

Idk that still shouldn't back feed to the switch and blow the fuse

 

Well I have each pair of lights wired to to a separate relay, so two relays and one trigger wire to activate 2 pairs of lights. Each time a fuse blows it's always the add a fuse and not on the aux fuse block.

 

Right the only power going to your switch is the signal wire from the relay and the illumination wires.

 

So technically should I be able to turn the lights on without the key being in the "on" position? Because currently the lights and illumination only work when the key is turned to the "on" position. I thought the add a fuse circuit is only to power the top/bottom leds. It appears that the switch only gets power when key is in the ignition.

I wonder if somehow I have the wires reversed either at the toggle switch or at the relay.

 

Pm'd

 

Just for visibility

 

Interesting. I didn't look into how he wired the relay..+1

 

Installed last week or before that

 

Did anyone do an install with ignition power instead of having power 100% of the time?

I am thinking of running a line from battery -> breaker -> 100a Relay ->fuse panel. Anyone done it? Should be pretty simple, correct?

 

Yea simple, but what's the reason for a breaker and a relay?

 

Breaker so I can shut power off if I want/need. The relay is just so I can have the fuse panel working off the ignition rather than direct power.

 

Good idea, but sometimes you need some stuff to keep running without leaving the truck "on".

I use Strobe lights (in case of emergency), rear lights, side lights (in the future), front lights and extra power outlet... Why? because when I'm camping I always prefer to only keep the lights/stuff I'm using, instead of having all the electronics of the truck everytime I need a light or power


What I would do is to run a "signal" cable that would be hot when on to all the switches you want to turn on only when you have your truck on....

 

I ran power straight to mine from the battery and just use a relay with ignition power when I wire up my accessories.

 

I get what you are saying.

The stuff that I already have wired via an add a fuse that I dont want on full power are radar, XM, rear window actuator, heated seats, heated mirrors, HID's and LED Light bar. None of which I really need to have full time power.

This one would work?

$12 ESUPPORT Car Auto Heavy Duty Split Charge DC 12V 100A 100 AMP SPST Relay 4 Pin 4P RL180

http://www.amazon.com/Support-Heavy...pebp=1440609066677&perid=03GNM8XD3RH0RF6ZT7FX

 

as an avionics technician... I approve of your wiring sir, couple wires exceed their bend radius, but I still like