parking brake light on always

so about 3 days ago my parking brake light came on and has stayed on, pulling the handle fully out and then pushing it back in does nothing, giggling it around, etc... etc...

the brake is obviously not engaged as ive been doing 70+mph to and from work, no dragging, smoke or brake on fire.

is this a common issue?

my truck was recently lifted about 3.25" all around but im not sure how that would affect the switch

 

if the brake fluid is low it makes that light come on, if its just 1/4" below full that light can come on so make sure the brake fluid reservoir is full.

 

in all my google searches that never came up ha, it makes sense, since its almost time for new brakes so the pads must be very worn and the piston is out a bit ha. Tundra swap coming soon.

 

Happens a lot. Check the e brake cable underneath, there's also a clip and spring in the rear drums that freezes up and gets finicky.

 

My light came on my adjustable rear brake valve was leaking ordered a new one from toyota and itv fixed the problem for me

 

This right here. The vehicle I'm borrowing these days has a brake fluid leak and when it's low, the light is on all the time until it gets filled.

 

will agree whiff keakar... P brake totally cool after a few years of running with brake light on. once pull arm and adjustment below dash adjusted a couple of years ago cured issue, that fucking light came back on. for some reason brake wear indicators did not give off the squeal sound. now I am hearing no pad just pad holder scrape against rotors. getting LCE installed ASAP. am I the only one who likes to pull lights out of dash when they go on? i swear i feel like them lights is too high tech for me. drive it until it don't work. i am still alive or did a bot post this? Go Team Taco Luddite!!! f a lot of jeep.

 

if you can push on the parking brake cable and make the light go out, it's the parking brake cable, not anything in the brake system. the p brake cable stretches under the truck and the light switch under the dash relies on the return spring on the cable under the truck to hold the handle away from the light switch. Just adjust the cable underneath and you'll be fine.

 

the only thing i don't like about the design is the light goes on way too early, IMHO it shouldn't go off until the reservoir is half full not just 1/4" below full when its still got a full inch of fluid in it.

 

1st Gen ebrake adjustment writeup

http://www.lieblweb.com/ebrakeadjustment.html

 

The same light warns of a system fail so you must check entire system.

 

i topped it off with some fresh DOT 3 and the light immediately went off.

I still plan to do the tundra swap in the next month or so, at that time, how difficult is it to flush the entire system and refill with some fresh brake fluid? just fill MC and keep topped off and pump brakes until lines run clear, or is there an easier way?

are there any other brake mods/adjustments that could be done? im basically rebuilding the mechanics of the truck piece by piece it seems so might as well address everything

 

That's how I did it. Just open up the bleeder after you've got some clear tube attached to it, dunk the tube in some brake fluid (doesn't matter if it's old or new) and pump the brakes and keep topping off the resi until the lines are clear. I would start with the longest line first and work your way forward to the shortest line. Do this after you install your brakes so you can bleed them in the process. Just make sure you don't pump the brake pedal too far in, I've heard people have messed up the seal in the cylinder from doing that.

As far as upgrades the tundra brakes are all you need to have stop-on-a-dime performance. If you pull your e-brake every time your park I do not believe you need to adjust the drums. I just cleaned the drums out with brake cleaner and put them back together, they don't need a whole lot of maintenance, there are guys on here with 250k on stock shoes and still have plenty of material left.

I personally went with Napa Eclipse calipers (they are coated so no rusting issues), OEM discs and pads. The Toyota pads are super light on dust buildup and last a stupidly long time. I got the OEM stuff through Toyota of Dallas.

 

Was gonna start a thread on this, but I have the same situation, BUT...only in cold weather, '97 T100 4WD 3.4V6 automatic 346,445 miles, after turning truck on, I let warm up for like 10 minutes, then drive, soon as I hit the brakes, the brake light comes on and stays on, reservoir is full, I push n pull on E brake and nothing, warm weather this doesn't happen

 

Try twisting the handle sideways one way or another. My light can come on it's got play that allows it to stay on