Old Man Emu: Questions, Answers & Pictures

886x/90000 shocks
LR UCA's
No Sway-Bar
Dakar leafs with

$77 D29XL Leaf Spring

D29XL AAL and 2nd overload leaf removed.
Icon 2.5 res. rear shocks.

(ALL PARTS BOUGHT FROM TW BST! Thanks!)

Had a low speed vibe, ordered the OME diff drop and it drives GREAT. Now I need to chop my cab mount to fit the 33's at full stuff...

 

Me personally 50 vs 200 I would go with the wheelers but I have no experience with the timbren. If it turns out u don't like them sale them for 40 and buy the others then ur only out 10 bucks instead of 200 right off the bat. But I will let someone that has had the timbren chime in cause there could be a huge difference but I just can't see it being a 150 dollar difference. I just couldn't justify paying that much myself personally because there are other things in the wish list! Lol

 

That's true, I mean they are just chunks of rubber but still, 100 per bumpstop is a lot, I think I'll try the wheelers!

 

I drive like an old woman, especially off road, so the Superbumps are exactly what I need. OTOH, if you like high speed desert runs, an upgrade might very well be justified.

 

Is it just me or does it appear that the truck is nose high with 887's and a dakar leaf pack in the back? I've been looking at the pics of trucks and it seems that unless you already have a heavy fender, the nose is higher than the rear

 

Going up 3" in front and on average 2.75" in the rear would essentially leave you with factory rake

 

That's what I am afraid of. Although I think my stock leaf pack is starting to droop, I have a camper shell on already which might put me a little less than level on my DCLB.

 

I have a DCLB with a 200lb cap and usually another 200lbs of tools onboard , with 885's and Dakars I have about 1 1/2" of rake

 

I was looking at the 887's for the 3" lift but it looks like 885's (although I don't keep much else in the bed of the truck) would make more sense

 

OME 884's without spacers, All pro UCA's installed. Sotting in the alignment shop and they can't get get caster down much below 4 without camber going out. Wish I could get under there and turn the wrenches though.

Thinking the control arms may have been too much for the 2 1/2" I raised it.

Thoughts?

 

I used to have 884s with stock UCAs and didn't need an alignment after install. I think I got lucky though.

 

I thought it drove pretty good after install. Tracked straight and steering wheel was centered, had a bit of bump steer though so I knew it had some positive caster. I'm happy with the new numbers though, bump steer is gone and all the other numbers are good. Surprised at how much it affected the toe, I thought Camber would take a bigger hit. Oh well, $69 well spent.

Before

-0.1 Camber -.5
5.0 Caster 4.8
-.84 Toe -1.03


After

.2 Camber .2
4.1 Caster 4.0
.08 Toe .09


The alignment tech was frustrated at first, once I told him the arms added 2* of Caster he kind of just went with it. I know the frustration that goes along with it, just glad he actually cared about the numbers.

 

Might be a stupid question but here it goes, when replacing the rear bump stops (wheelers super bumps/w factory ubolts and bottom plate) do you need to use c clamps the compress the leaf springs or is there already a bolt holding in the leaf spring? I'm pretty positive that there is a bolt and might just go ahead and use the c clamps anyway when replacing the bump stops. I know it's should be an easy swap compared to what I went through with the front bump stops. I've looked around and cannot find any install help. Just don't want to pull the u bolts off and then the leafs start separating.

 

The leaf springs have a center pin (bolt) that holds the leaves together. You can remove your U-bolts without the pack separating.

 

Good to know thanks. Then the install should be really simple then. Wouldn't even have to take the u bolts all the way off all the way in theory. Just losen Them up enough to slide the old ones out and slide the new ones in!

 

275/70/17 bfg at's

 

Mine has factory rake with 887s and dakars, it sits pretty level, the back sits about 1" or so higher though but it's not like the truck appears to be nose diving into the ground, hardly noticable. I had 884s and an AAL with OME shocks before and let me tell you, that rake was horrible, the front was so much lower than the rear, by almost 3", don't put 884s on a double cab. I learned a valuable lesson

 

Wouldn't that depend on the rear leafs?

 

I have a 2011 DC LB and am looking at putting an OME kit on. Seems like a lot of people have liked the 885s. I also have a possible leaf spring recall so I want to do the Dakar leaf pack in the rear. Have reviewed this thread pretty thorough but have some specific quesions I am hoping some can help with. Thanks in advance!

1) I would like to put 285 tires on my truck with 885 OME kit not sure if I want to go 16 or 17 in rim. Is it possible to pull off 285s without having any rub issuess or will I have to make addditional mods?
2) Can back spacers be used to push tire out a bit to avoid tire rub?
3) What are top plate spacers and can those help avoid tire rub if I run 285s?
4) What rim width can I do with 885 OME kit and 285 tires max? I have heard 9 in width cause a lot of rub issues.
5) Is differential drop necessary for 885 OME lift? Shop I am talking to says yes, but I have read otherwise.
6) Are UCAs needed for 885 OME lift?
7) What is lift height for 885 OME kit? I read a lot saying it specs out at 50mm or so which is only about 2 inches but saw a lot of people saying its more than that.
9) How much rake will this kit have? I don't usually have much tools in my bed or a cap so I am thinking I want it to sit fairly level.

Thanks

AC

 

Hope this helps a little. This is also assuming you are 4wd. Lift may be a little higher in front if you are a prerunner because of a lighter frontend.

1) yes most likely you'll need to mod the fender liner and possibly a cab mount chop with just 885s and 285s

2) wheel spacers can be used to help clear the UCAs but that pushes the tire further out and will most likely rub the cab mount

3) top plate spacers go between the top of the spring and spring plate to give additional lift, which will help with rubbing

4) I'd stick between 7" - 8" wheel width but back spacing seems to be a big part of the equation. I think I read 4.5" bs is ideal

5) diff drop not really needed, seems to be the consensus

6) UCAs not needed but may help with clearance and alignment

7) think 885s yield between 2"-2.5", closer to 3" if you add the 1/4" top plate spacer

8) you skipped 8 lol

9) not sure what kind of rake you'd have, I'd guess about 2" difference between front and back