Oahu Members Thread

hard to round off the castle nut unless you didnt take the cotter pin out before trying to take off the nut or left pieces still inside. thats what jams up the thread and your going be replacing the ball joint too. ive seen it happen many times at work. new guys either zap it off with a impact without seeing the cotter pin or when they try to pound the ball joint out with the castle nut still on the thread. it mushrooms the castle part


if you can take a picture let me see how bad it is.

 

Coter pin was out. Thought maybe there was some dirt/debris but it was clean. Maybe rust but I soaked it good with pub blaster. Honestly not sure. Got both sway bar castle nuts off no problem. Driver side spindle castle nut, no problem. Passenger side...no idea but that thing would not move.

I will try to get pics up tomorrow, it's pretty chewed up.

 

ive had some toyota ifs trucks and hondas that would just sit there and spin. Best thing is grind and chisel that nut off. come from the bottom, grind a cross into the nut and chisel it till it busts. Then use a punch or press and get it out of the spindle.

 

I tried ordering the 14 oz. can and 3 oz. tube from Amazon & Home Depot but they won't ship to Hawaii. It's all good, I just ended up using some Torco.

 

Not trying to under estimate you, but I did catch my brother tightening the spindle nut since it was upside down... The castle nut shouldn't be that tight anyway. If there's still hope without cutting it off, try some aerokroil or penetrating lube. Spray the area, then tie a small piece of rag around the nut, then soak that and let it sit before trying again.

 

Yeah I double checked that also.

I started on the passenger side and when the nut started giving me a hard time I pulled the driver side apart. Maybe I was doing something wrong but drivers side came apart easy. Went back to the passenger side and comensed to destroy the castle nut. I should have stopped part way in but temper got the best of me.

Now that thing looks like a chewed piece of bubble gum.....

 

Been getting a ton of offers to tackle my stubborn nut.... Here is a photo. While not exactly chewed bubble gum, its definitely not nut shaped anymore.... Hard to tell in the photo but its pretty damn round. And yes the cotter pin is in, I reassembled everything once I realized I couldn't get it off.

 

something about a lot of the new trucks i've seen in the dealership recently, a lot of the bolts underneath already have surface rust...could be the threads are seized.

 

Did you try vice grips and a hammer? A welding torch might help as well. Heat that bitch up and then try to loosen it. Bunch of guys on here have welding tools...

 

Vice grips and hammer didn't work. Was tempted to heat it up with a propane torch but with the way things were going the truck would have went up in flames.

 

your telling me shet i just rebuild my whole front end on my tundra. all the parts started getting surface rust after 2 months! the original parts didnt even rust and that was over 10 years old stuff! quality of metal or paint? not sure but it sucks

 

I say fuck it cut dat bad boy lol!!!

 

Lefty loosy Jk......never fails every time I do any shit on my truck Murphy gets me! But like stated above

 

Yeah I was surprised. First new vehicle I've bought on island. Gave it a good look and saw a lot of surface rust. Checked out a couple other ones on the lot and they all had it. One of the joys of living in Hawaii I guess.

 

Global warming. Increased evaporation means a larger quantity of salt in the air. More airborne salt, more rust.

 

pb blaster is your friend

 

I'm shittin you guys. And thanks again for all the offers of help.

 

You had me with that global warming shit. lol

 

1/2automatic transmission fluid
1/2 acetone
= holy shit awesome penetrating fluid.
Google it.... has never failed me and I've done some pretty redoniculous
Stuff

 

dremel a flat side, take a chisel and pound that bitch out.

that's what I did to my stripped coilover bolt