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98 Tacoma vibration problems

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by jeffexcell, May 30, 2008.

  1. May 30, 2008 at 4:20 PM
    #1
    jeffexcell

    jeffexcell [OP] New Member

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    98 Tacoma SR5 V6 TRD
    I have a 1998 Tacoma V6 SR5 TRD 4X4 automatic transmission and recently it has started to vibrate while i'm driving. It's most noticable when I'm going about 45-60 and then let off the gas, but it vibrates slightly at other speeds as well. I just recently had the tires rotated and balance, which helped slightly. Also when I put it in gear it does have a clank. I'm thinking it could be a U-joint problem, but I'm not sure. Help me out!
     
  2. May 30, 2008 at 4:33 PM
    #2
    humanoid

    humanoid bite me

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    Try greasing all the zerks on the driveshaft, the u-joint and the slip yoke and see if that helps your problem.
     
  3. May 30, 2008 at 5:07 PM
    #3
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Also, with the vehicle in park, park brake on, go under the truck, grab the drive shaft and try to turn it. If it dont move, your U-joints are good. If it moves, you have a bad u-joint. :)
     
  4. May 31, 2008 at 11:15 AM
    #4
    jeffexcell

    jeffexcell [OP] New Member

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    The driveshaft doesn't move when I try to move it, could it be my tires? I'm riding on 31X15 all terrain tires and they are probably about 2 1/2 years old. Or I heard it could be my carrier bearings, is that a possibility? Or could it be something completely different? Sorry for these stupid questions.
     
  5. May 31, 2008 at 5:17 PM
    #5
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    Try what Huminoid said. Grease exerything good. Tires could be the problem. On my 2000 I had BFG A/T's and it vibed alot until I changed them out.
     
  6. Jun 1, 2008 at 9:58 PM
    #6
    rebel

    rebel Member

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    i have the same probelm with my 97, same exact speed mainly when letting off the gas.
     
  7. Jun 2, 2008 at 3:55 AM
    #7
    RoadKill

    RoadKill Northern Alliance: padawan

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    North of the border
    Vehicle:
    First gen 4x4
    285x70x17 offset rims+ 1.5 spacers, rear Timbrens + 3 inch lift add a leaf, Sway-a-way coilovers + camburg control arms, Fender flares (2.5 inch), clear lights, headers, sliders, roll bar
    Checking U-joints with park brake on and transmission in park (a/t) or in gear is not the way to go, you will not be able to feel any loose joints this way since the driveshaft is torked in park.
    You need to put the transmisson in neutral to be able to turn it and feel the loose, put blocks behind and in front of one wheel if your parkbrake ain't safe.
    do this for all joints, I think there is 5 in total, put one hand each side of joint and feel if there is any loose, do this before greasing.
    check carriage bearing if loose in rubber by pushing upwards.
    most clanking noises are made by the last joint (on differential) the piece that slides into driveshaft builds up loose on spleens, there should be a grease zert on this also but could have been butt off by off roading also each joint knucles on driveshaft must be aligned with the next. seen this very often since the spleen can be slided in anyways without master spleen.
    Last thing, check your transmission support mounts if its cracked since it could disaligne driveshaft.
     
  8. Jun 2, 2008 at 8:37 AM
    #8
    jeffexcell

    jeffexcell [OP] New Member

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    Thanks guys, I'll check those things out and let you know what I find out!
     
  9. Jun 2, 2008 at 5:05 PM
    #9
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    FlimFlubberJAM
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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    Correct! I had it wrong. I was thinking of a manual tranny, as that was the last tranny I worked on.:eek:
     
  10. Jun 2, 2008 at 5:20 PM
    #10
    RoadKill

    RoadKill Northern Alliance: padawan

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    North of the border
    Vehicle:
    First gen 4x4
    285x70x17 offset rims+ 1.5 spacers, rear Timbrens + 3 inch lift add a leaf, Sway-a-way coilovers + camburg control arms, Fender flares (2.5 inch), clear lights, headers, sliders, roll bar
    I was sure you knew, just wanted to lay out a good procedure.
    You are probably like me, I find it harder to write the job then actualy do it :evil:
     
  11. Jun 2, 2008 at 5:39 PM
    #11
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    LOL...True Dat! :D
     
  12. Jun 4, 2008 at 10:26 PM
    #12
    jeffexcell

    jeffexcell [OP] New Member

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    Ok, I took my truck into a mechanic to have it checked out and it turns out that it was the rear u-joints, but he also said that it was the rack and pinion steering and that my whole steering rack would have to be replaced. He said that part alone without the labor was $720! Does my whole steering rack need to be replaced or can I just replace the bushings? It seems like this is a problem with this generation of tacomas, but I'm really not sure
     
  13. Jun 4, 2008 at 10:44 PM
    #13
    humanoid

    humanoid bite me

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    Unless your rack is leaking fluid somewhere, ask him to show you if it is, then yes, replace it, otherwise, just replace the bushings.
     
  14. Jun 5, 2008 at 4:27 PM
    #14
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    4.10 gears, sliders, and lots of buttons.
    I would just replace the U-joints first. See if that fixes the problem. If not, then attack the rack & pinion. :)
     

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