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^^ How To: AEM F/IC-6 Install, Tuning, and Help Thread

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by mudthedoor, Jul 16, 2015.

  1. Jul 16, 2015 at 11:21 AM
    #1
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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    AEM F/IC-6 Install & Tuning
    By: MTD (2015)

    [​IMG]

    TLDR: This is a new, cheaper, and more efficient way to tune the 5VZFE that has the TRD Supercharger. The guide currently covers install, but will be expanded to cover tuning and other related topics as well.

    INTRO:
    Alright guys before we get started with the install and how to tune this I wanted to give a brief overview of why someone would select this over the other options there are on the market currently. I may have jumped the gun and alienated some people to the idea of this tuning system and I would like to apologize for that. What I will attempt to do now is lay out the facts in a clear and organized manner and allow you (the end user) to make the choice for yourself.

    What- The AEM F/IC-6 is a all in one tuning computer that allows you to tune your vehicle with either stock, larger injectors, meth, or any other form of fuel enrichment (race gas). I has an on board MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor that reads the absolute pressure that your engine see's. You then use the F/IC-6 to skew o2 and AFR values entering your stock computer and add fuel for both part throttle, and WOT boost enrichment. This system is an excellent choice to be used with the TRD Supercharger, and is much more flexible and affordable than other systems that are available on the the market for our trucks.

    Why- So why would you use this system instead of the other 'tried and true' products for our vehicles? There are many reasons, the first is being:

    • Compatibility - The AEM F/IC 6 has the capability to provide both open and closed loop enrichment to all model years of the 5VZFE. Which is critical for engine life and longevity
    • Ease of Use - There is a large following in every facet of motorsports for the AEM brand and because of that there is a ton of 3rd party support.
    • Software - AEM has done a great job of laying out the software for the F/IC and making it intuitive for the beginner to the pro
    • Datalogging - On top of this the F/IC works as a datalogger which is invaluable for creating and modifying tunes when working alone. You can then import your log file into AEMdata, which is an immensely powerful program to read and track data logs.
    • Tuning Control - Allows you to retard timing effectively, in addition to controlling fuel delivery, maf, and o2 skewing.
    • Price - The Final point and the icing on the cake. A AEM F/IC install can be done for the relatively low cost of $380 for a BRAND NEW unit. No more need to pick up someone's sloppy seconds to tune your truck!

    Overview video:
    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Hu_GT5aCxwg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


    How- This is the fun part, and the reason you are here. I have spent the last couple months researching, and about 2 days of puttzing I have the process for installing the AEM down. This thread after the process is laid out will serve as my tuning journal as well as a place for people who are installing and tuning to ask questions that are AEM specific. The process is fairly easy, first will be a resource section that helps the end user determine what vehicle they have and what install procedure they will need to follow. Following that will be the optional step of building your own piggy back or jumper harness. Next will be install followed close after by the tuning section. Enjoy!




    Compatibility:

    The F/IC-6 is compatible with every fuel injected car on the market(up to 6 cylinders). There are some exceptions to every rule, but the 5VZFE is not one of them. This section will help sort out the small caveats that Toyota has built into the different model years of the 5VZ and help you to figure out which install procedure to follow. This tutorial will lay out any deviations from the F/IC install manual, and will include some tips, but will not walk through each wire step by step. The reason for this that Toyota changed wire colors and pinouts during the model years.

    There are 2 important changes in the install process based on the model year and features. The wiring harness and the O2 sensor types changed over the years and bellow is a matrix to determine which you have on your Runner. Make sure that you are positive on what your vehicle is equipped with otherwise it will cause problems further into the install.

    Wiring Harness- The wiring harness type was mainly model year dependent, but early on there were some variations between the auto’s and the manuals. I don’t have an experience with the harness listed as type B, and I don’t think the AEM harness works for the model years that are different.

    I am working on a tutorial to go along with the instal that tells you how to make a piggyback harness from an old ecu and plugs. It's about $50 in parts and then it just costs time to solder it up. This is what I am running now.

    sff7KCbr6mB5hBc1maYAfRP3b_kwnkCtPgudI8IT_e47257394ffbf1651dc0dfab63ca1729ed6e8d24.jpg

    Need to confirm that AEM Harness is compatible ^^^^ You can check HERE.

    Type C
    C8s-YowZEzRUh7A5YBjib7pYTb-m8-gWJuil9gDx_405a92940e03659ab7e76f89287bb70089d4b58e.jpg

    Type D
    VMZA6dEH7C-4QbLHqp3_mxDIM6MaFjIftdhZdo5o_de86cf145d16f3d5a2aa214525b3e2050bd346e0.jpg

    O2 Sensor Type- If you don't confirm the o2 type before instal there is a chance that you won't be able to tune the 4Runner because O2 skewing will not work. For those of you with the AFR style O2 the AEM is especially appealing when compared to the URD 7th because you can tune closed loop and part throttle boost with it.

    3rd Gen 4Runner:
    iybcHzMzFNwwkzVL0RNScF432z6TtBi8UDnOKqW-_8a36d54dcef1a676746a589112941a1b56882c64.jpg



    What you need:

    I will do my best in this section to lay out everything that you will need and will want to install and tune this properly.

    Reference:
    • TIS Subscription - This isn't an optional thing, pay the $15 and download all of the manuals for your year. For installing the F/IC it is a requirement since Toyota changed pinouts so many times over the years. I have looked for free wiring diagrams on the internet and didn't find anything for my year (2000) there may be something out there for your year, but save yourself the trouble having these diagrams is wonderful for any electrical project. You can access the TIS page here.
    • AEM F/IC Instal manual - I will let you know what you can ignore in it. It can be found here.

    Parts:
    • 30-1910 AEM F/IC-6 Universal - Don't get any other part number otherwise it may not work. It has to be the universal model.
    • 30-4110 AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge - Can be any wideband, but this is the one that I am using and it works great.
    • 1/4W 2.2K Resistor - For signal filtering on the cam circuit. This is a requirement, If you don't install this the truck will through a code for the cam circuit.
    • 1/4W 10K Resistor - This is needed for O2 skewing for the narrow band trucks, if you have a 00+ you can disregard this. Also do not go on the AEM instructions for the 1k resistor, it will not work.
    • 1/4" Heat Shrink
    • Solder
    • Zip Ties
    Optional
    • Donor ECU
    • Matching ECU Plugs
      __
      OR
      __
    • Boomslang/URD/Other Extension Harness

    Tools:

    • Soldering Iron
    • Wire Strippers
    • Heat gun
    • Propane torch
    • Screw drivers
    • Razor Blade
    • E-Tape
    • 8mm, 10mm, 12mm Sockets
    • Helping hands (optional)
    • Molex depin tool (sorta optional)



    Basic Install:

    The basic install is what you follow if you will be wiring this up directly to your stock wiring. This method is the cheapest and can be the least time consuming because there is no expensive harness to buy, and you won't be spending time building a harness. That being said I don't recommend it because if there is an issue with you wiring job, you can't go back to stock by simply unplugging the extension/piggyback harness. The AEM does come with a bypass plug that would allow you to remove the unit if you have problems, but depending on which wire is the culprit there is no guarantee that it will bypass it correctly.

    1. Get your F/IC manual.
    2. :rtfm: Learn it, read and become familiar with it, and if you have any questions consult the glossary in the back of the manual. Then if you still have questions feel free to ask them here.
    3. Now that you are all up to speed on the manual I will lay out the install process for you starting with what sensor type you should be wiring for. I suggest depinning the AEM Wiring harness so that there isn't just a bunch of wires flopping around that are not being used. Be careful if you attempt to depin the unused wires though because you could potentially wreck your harness. Here is a list of wires that are commonly mistanken:

      A. MAG Crank and Cam sensors - All HAL sensor wires can be eliminated from the AEM harness. We will only need the MAG style sensor wires.
      B. MAF sensor only - The 5VZFE doesn't have a MAP sensor so the wires for that can be eliminated


      Here is a good video on how to depin the molex connector that AEM uses. If you have experience with computers this is the same process as depinning a mobo header.

      <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kXMwCQ9fIVM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

      Being the cheap a$$ I am I of course did not buy the depinning tool that they recommend, instead I just took a dremel and flattened horizontally the end of two pins and it worked like a charm.

      0g_Ffd4-3H4LVfrSS5Jbx8umNd2pFKZhk3s-b_Mg_98aa6607a6f3685957572d1625c4445f8e0a9e1e.jpg
    4. For specific pins you will need to be looking at your "Engine Control" wiring diagram. The letters in the blue box are the function of each wire, the letter in the bubble is the connector, and the number beside it is the pin number. Below is a list of the abbreviations that designate wires that you will need to send to the AEM:

      (Updated 8/18/15)
      uzhg04dhAZZUN8zv4cgw42m9YM_YuLy2U713Asog_55cea98e58e145da21ca130997edc18b170f908d.jpg


      [*] Now the resistors can be done at the same time as the above step, but it isn't really important that it is since they are pretty independent of the actual wiring.

      Cam Sensor Resistor: (Updated 8/18/15)
      Toyota has a reputation of getting by with a very dirty signal with their sensor circuits, it could be to save cost or just because they can. Regardless to the reason because of this we need to add a low pass filter otherwise when we hook up the AEM the dirtiness (excuse my lack of knowledge on this I am not an EE lol) of the signals will be amplified and the truck will throw a code. Luckily this LPF can be simply taken care of by a 1/4W 2.2k resistor. You will need to bridge the CAM MAGO - and the CAM MAGI + with this resistor.

      3MxxcoD48bEtkQ12t7NLrXO0Qt7hxhMZp38GzNjx_f1d8368c412d87654f31e567e3dc4fcf98079f70.jpg
      (Diagram Courtesy of Garret Curry)

      To bridge these I followed the method (Just the method use the wires and resistors I tell you) of this gentleman.

      O2 Sensor Resistor: Skip if you have a AFR Style O2 sensor truck. See the chart in the reference section if you are unsure.

      If you have a narrow band O2 4Runner you will need to do this step otherwise the O2 skewing will not work. Do not use the 1k resistor that AEM recommends in the install manual, for toyotas a 10K resistor is what we need. Make sure to solder it in on the sensor side of the harness ahead of the tap for the O2 skewing from the AEM. Here is a diagram of where to put it:

      Su3cAXdndTF_feJktwtbT0I-vrjPAU5U49ZA7cNP_da251d5430e9fddb60c88cbfef1cf1916075ddbd.jpg


      Here is what it looks like on the harness:

      fRRz3PQ0JXVg7Mfb9yawxu1r2a4c1rm2VNSn7GY7_f14561846abc6c3258ec7bc28925c506ee1baaf5.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2015
  2. Jul 16, 2015 at 11:29 AM
    #2
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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    Boomslang probably does, you may want to give that a try it won't be cheap though I'm sure...

    I made my own plug and play from an old ECU actually. I'm gonna post up how here as well.
     
  3. Jul 16, 2015 at 11:29 AM
    #3
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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  4. Jul 16, 2015 at 11:29 AM
    #4
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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    For later used
     
  5. Jul 17, 2015 at 10:30 AM
    #5
    TMFF

    TMFF Well-Known Member

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    Stuff and junk and things...
    This is some good info. My FTC shit the bed a while ago and it started when the box stopped pass through the cam sensor. Probably failed from the "dirty" cam signal. I have been researching on what to replace it with either this or the MAPECU3.

    What do you mean by the wide and narrow AFR sensor? I always thought they were an O2 on early trucks then went to the AFR sensor on 2000+ T4R and 2001+ Taco's. Or do you mean using an output on an aftermarket gauge?
     
  6. Jul 17, 2015 at 10:33 AM
    #6
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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    Tim you are right, sorry I should append that I mean AFR sensor not wideband... Didn't catch that. Also that table is for 3rd gen 4Runners not tacomas. I just ported the post over here so that everyone had a chance to see it. I will updated it now.
     
  7. Jul 17, 2015 at 10:39 AM
    #7
    TMFF

    TMFF Well-Known Member

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    Stuff and junk and things...
    Do you have a link to T4R? is there more discussion?

    did you get his to work on your t4r? do you have the 7th or 6 bigger injectors?
     
  8. Jul 17, 2015 at 10:47 AM
    #8
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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    Haha yeah of course it's working and running great! I don't have bigger injectors or the 7th, you don't need them at stock boost levels. From my calculations I should even be able to run a 2.2 pulley with stock injectors, but I will probably be going meth injection and then a 2.1 pulley.

    I posted it at the same time as here but there is some discussion. I am literally the only 4Runner running it now since there has never been a write up or any info on how to do it. I have to finish the tuning portion of the write up yet, but I will post my canned tune when I get it done. The FIC 6 is very popular over at custom tacos if you want a review of sorts.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2015
  9. Jul 17, 2015 at 1:48 PM
    #9
    TMFF

    TMFF Well-Known Member

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    FYI the stock injectors don't have much room in the injector duty cycle to try and push more fuel. It will be difficult to tune once you go with higher boost numbers. Supra injectors cost about as much as a meth injection setup.
     
  10. Jul 17, 2015 at 1:51 PM
    #10
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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    Yep I know, like I said stock boost there is plenty of room for. I am going meth though for other benefits than cost. Our 3 lobe roots blowers are terribly inefficient and suffer from heat soak. The meth will help keep air charge temps down in addition to boosting AFR.
     
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  11. Jul 20, 2015 at 4:57 PM
    #11
    BlackSportD

    BlackSportD Well-Known Member

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    Icon/TC Mid travel, TRD S/C, PNP Greddy EMU, 625cc injectors, 2.2 pulley, Hayden tranny cooler, AEM wideband, TRD boost gauge.
    From past experience it is also good to filter the crank signal in the same manner you filter the cam.
     
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  12. Jul 21, 2015 at 6:26 AM
    #12
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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    Hmmm okay, I'll look into that! thanks for the tip. I had been talking to garetcurry over at CT, and he didn't mention anything about it. It would probably help to smooth the RPM signal to the FIC wouldn't it?
     
  13. Jul 21, 2015 at 3:03 PM
    #13
    BlackSportD

    BlackSportD Well-Known Member

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    Icon/TC Mid travel, TRD S/C, PNP Greddy EMU, 625cc injectors, 2.2 pulley, Hayden tranny cooler, AEM wideband, TRD boost gauge.
    Its been a long time, but when I did just the cam, it fixed the hesitation and CEL so I can see how it seems to be a 100% fix, but later when I did the crank the nature of the truck changed for the better-- when you flash between z110, z107, z104 etc, and also try physical fixes like the resistors with each flash, it seems (and makes sense) that the same noise issues of the cam are suffered by on the crank, but the symptoms are not as obvious with the flash you should use (z104).

    This is a good post, its been way to long that 1st gen owners realize there is such a more modern and capable option out there. I am running 625cc injectors without a hitch- I put such a large size in because this isn't my first rodeo (AEM in the 'fun' car, then an EMU, and for standalone fun, an MS3Pro) and knew putting 420cc, 550cc etc, its all just as tunable, so for the $$ at the time, the 420, 550 and 625cc were the same price, so screw it, run 625 cause I can.

    Tack this into the write-up, there is a setting you control in the software so that when you wire up a switch from the logging lead, one of two things can happen, the FIC starts data logging into internal memory, or it switches to a different configuration and mapping (fuel, timing). I do the latter, and when I run my 91 down to E, sometimes I go to an E85 station and fill up on that- switch the rocker switch over and it switches to a map that adds the extra fueling in, and zero's out all the timing retard I have put in for 91 (I have one of the 'pinger' 5vzs that love to ping). It really wakes the truck up- E85 is awesome and I'm sure I could get away with some timing advance if the FIC could do it.
     
  14. Jul 21, 2015 at 3:21 PM
    #14
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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    Gotcha, yeah I'm running z104 right now.

    I am on stock injectors now, but was gonna go large too, I was thinking 550 though, maybe I'll just go 650cc. What pulley you running?

    I have that in there on the other forum (t4r) but I'll update here too!
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2015
  15. Jul 21, 2015 at 6:05 PM
    #15
    elnip

    elnip Well-Known Member

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    :thumbsup:Very timely thread OP, I'm just about to pull the FTC and Supra TT MAF on my '98 and install a F/IC and newer style MAF.
    My main reason for the switch is the map switching capability and much better software. Been wanting to do this for a while.
     
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  16. Jul 22, 2015 at 7:51 AM
    #16
    TMFF

    TMFF Well-Known Member

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    I emailed URD about my FTC box that went bad on me and asked about the FIC and Mapecu3. Was told the FIC doesn't work well with the 5vz and to go mapecu3, but that is what they sell. I think I will go with the FIC.
     
  17. Jul 22, 2015 at 7:55 AM
    #17
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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    It is a business and a good businessman will always push their product, but a great businessman will always recommend the best product.
     
  18. Jul 22, 2015 at 6:07 PM
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    BlackSportD

    BlackSportD Well-Known Member

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    Icon/TC Mid travel, TRD S/C, PNP Greddy EMU, 625cc injectors, 2.2 pulley, Hayden tranny cooler, AEM wideband, TRD boost gauge.
    I have a 2.2 pulley, from the reading I've don, the 2.1 doesn't give you much more air and power.

    550cc should be more than enough if just staying S/C and wanting E85 in the future. RC has a great injector calculator that IMO over-sizes a little bit, and I believe 420cc is still more than enough on pump gas. Another reason I went with 625cc over smaller sizes (because even as easy as it is to tune larger injectors with the EMU and AEM FIC, larger injectors can have nuances, so getting injectors sized for you power level mitigates the possible nuances) is that I have a CXRacing turbo kit just sitting here and I was really tempted to twin-charge (again, cause I can haha). The one thing holding me back is my truck runs great as it is- its a great daily driver, and I don't want to turn in into a loud, stinking project car that always has some new problem-- I already have one of those in the garage, hence why I bought the truck. So that turbo kit will just sit there... but one of these days, maybe I'll get stupid with the truck and shoot for the moon- tranny build, twin charge, maybe an engine build, big boost while trying to keep it a nice daily (quiet exhaust, cats, recirc wastegate, recirc BOV etc).
     
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  19. Jul 22, 2015 at 7:59 PM
    #19
    mudthedoor

    mudthedoor [OP] Sconnie

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    That would be amazing lol! Thanks for the input on the injector sizing btw, I am planning for E at some point and having the capacity for it is probably a good idea. If you ever statrt this build tho you should PM so I could watch lol.
     
  20. Aug 6, 2015 at 12:22 PM
    #20
    elnip

    elnip Well-Known Member

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    Taco SC'd, fuel mods, Supra TT MAF, TRD Headers, Water Meth Injection, Tundra Brake upgrade Trail w/URD EL Headers. JFR EL Y-pipe, URD Hi Clearance cat back, KDMAX Tune, 4.56's
    Any updates?
     

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