Official Tennessee Thread

Good. If I can't have um you can't have um.

 

In that same location there is a green w/white stripe wire. This is the dimmable ground. If you run power to your switches from on/igniton on or whatever you choose you can use this wire to control your ground. It only grounds when the dash/instrument lights are on, and it's controlled by your dimmer.

 

Boom!!! Droppin that semi drunk knowledge

 

https://youtu.be/Wul3TNeiZLQ

 

haha its the thought that counts, so thank you. AND the panel came today. I gotta test fit it tonight to see how much room I will have behind the panel for the wires. Thanks!!!

 

Thanks, I know theres A LOT of people wondering about that. And now that you show that, I think I've heard others mention the wire is set to a neg activation, not positive, which makes sense.

 

I got mine today too. Thanks man

 

Word. I've been to lazy. Plus, i never dim my dash lights.

Yep, i thought it was in the white connector

Cool. You'll have plenty as long as your holes in the cubby are large enough.

 

By the way adam and jeremy. Tonight i glued two small pieces of aluminum to the back side of my panel to help stiffen it. it wouldn't be a bad idea to do something similar with yours. I didn't think of it until today, other wise it would have added them to both of yours.

 

Well done, sir. Well done.

 

here's what i did. I used apoxy we have at work.

 

Ill look into that, can you get aluminum at Lowes/Home Depot???

Here's what I got done tonight, this shit better work...

the bottom left prong (as shown) should go to the relay and the bottom right will connect to the dash light tap. I have continuity between the lines.

 

Yeah, you can get some at either place.

Your switches are different than mine. I got upper independent with the on indicator LED. They share a common ground so there are only 4 prongs.

 

I was trying to count the prongs on your switches and noticed it wasnt wired the same which started to worry me. I got the 2 LED (1 independent) set up. After testing them they work like they should, once they are triggered on, the prong to the relay is getting 3V each which I assume is enough to trip the relay.

OFF

ON

Im hoping the lights will be a little brighter once powered from the car battery, once all 3 switches are on, the top LED is kinda weak on all of them.

 

Prong at the relay should be 12V

 

Do you think its because Im jumping it between 3 switches? Ive seen other peoples jumpers for these and they daisy chain them like I did too...idk??? Maybe its the cordless drill battery im using

 

I'd give each one its own power wire. Essentially, each switch is it's own circuit... and the point of the blue sea fuse block. By running a common power wire to all three switches, you're demanding too much amperage for the wire gauge you are using. So instead of demanding 40A for the one wire and all 3 switches, you could run individual power wires and demand less amps per circuit. Plus, if something does go wrong with any switch or any other part of the circuit that switch is in, it is way easier to figure out what went wrong with out having to touch any other circuit.

 

They are at the vets.

 

whats up! just moved to Ft Campbell.