Long Travel BS Thread

I'm really tempted to do short shifter but I feel like the bigger map is more ideal for slow shifting in 4 lo

 

I was gonna go with the Hurst Core shifter and the TOB upgrade and call it a day

 

Uhmm no your wrong, short shift makes it easier to rock your truck out of a hole and hard to accidentally shift in reverse but that's my experience

 

Easier to rock my truck out of a hole? And it's really hard to accidentally shift into reverse. It's just you know if you shift too fast in low it grinds, well if my gear positions were so close together I feel like it would be harder to ease it in...

 

Yea you've never had to rock a truck out of a spot? Like snow especially, it only shifts quick if you move your hand fast.... I wheel it all the time no grinding, not trying to convince you but, it is better/easier U get used to it

 

Oh yeah I've had to. I get what you're saying you can shift quicker and then punch your truck in forward and reverse. Hmm okay I've always been kinda torn on it. I appreciate your opinion

 

what size u bolts do i need for a 50t pack?
Can't find info on the sizes i need

Also need the size shackle hanger i need for 12" TC shackles. I know they are wider at the frame and taper at the bottom.

Thanks

 

other than picking a leaf pack or custom pack for my truck what are your guys opinions on shackles? i was looking at the TC 12" shackle above the frame. anyone run the 9" shackle?

 

Yup. Pull the axles, take them to a machine shop along with your new studs. They will drill the right hole based on the kerf of the new studs, then just hammer them in. You can get fancy and convert to discs with using late 80s chevy single piston calipers. Plenty of places on line to find brackets made for that housing and those calipers specifically.

 

Are you redrilling to match the wheel bolt pattern from 5 to 6? I like that disc idea and then throw in a locker. Also need to convert the drive shaft yoke or get an adapter

 

Can find a conversion u joint. I had to go from a 1310 to a 1320 I think ? And yes, the axle flanges get filled in, and drilled to 6 on 5.5 pattern.

 

Ya already found the yoke coversion. I've read that 4x4s don't need driveline modifications, but I'm pretty sure I would at this point. Anyone know for sure?

 

What modifications do you need ? Just the yoke ?

 

What about the driveshaft? I assumed with the extra droop it would need to be extended?

 

Varies, but I had to get my driveshaft shortened.

 

When the suspension droops out it moves closer towards the motor with leaf springs. The leaf pack shortens horizontally.

 

It's all about 3/4" of plunge brosuph!!! Just link things. (Closed my eyes and got luck on that one)

 

At what point is that needed? Is there a certain travel # that you pass and need to do it? Or just cycle suspension and watch DS at Transmission?

 

Cycle it and you'll see what needs to be done. Quick way to kill that transmission by having the drive shaft butt fuck your transmission.