Fumoto valve

Best place to get one? Part #?

Thanks in advance!

 

Got mine online.
I can check exactly. I get back to ya.

 

@YOTA LOVER
Quik Valve
I paid about $27 for it. $31.24 with ship.

 

The Doctor is in the house! Thank you, Sir.

 

Follow up question for the thread: Anybody running and aftermarket skid and the "N" series with the longer nipple? I'd love a longer nipple so long as it doesn't protrude below the skid.

Yes, I said "nipple".

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/engine-oil-drain-valve-fumoto.319232/page-4#post-8400707

Not sure if that link adds more color.

Can also pick it up at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=17VR7NEWT8TC9SP6XJFA

Stumbled on this thread and now I think Im in for one!

 

I bought my

$37 F103S LC-10 Lever Clip FS-Series Engine Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack

F103S from quik valve, $26.95 and $4.25 shipping. I added an extra gasket for $1 and the clip as I was already paying shipping. They send out discount codes, I just checked my trash bin to get code but it was emptied. Maybe another member has code. If you are going to use tubing cheaper to buy local.

 

I have Tyler's skid plate and a Fumoto without the nipple. I would hesitate to add any length to the valve if you are doing any wheeling.

 

Thanks guys! Short nipple it is.

 

Guys, you also need to get the correct MPT size for the vehicle. Even if you hear the word OEM that tells you squat. I have an F105 valve for the T-Gen3 and let me tell you, the F105s come in more than just one standard size. The F105-W103 will do you no good as it has for me. And I don't want to re-tread my oil pan to an M20 tread size. So be careful what you buy. If you have a 3.5L T-Gen3 V6 you need an F133 Fumoto not an F105 like some brainiacs here keep posting. Do some research on Fumoto website yourselves if you do not believe me.

 

You need to crack open another beer. Your responding to a 6 yr old post.

 

Make sure the lever is in the closed position before refilling the oil. It ships in the open position, ask me how I know.

 

Excellent advice, I'll watch out for that.

 

No problems with mine it’s been 10 years. They really are the best thing since sliced bread

 

Adding pics here for anyone with questions/concerns about a Fumoto accidentally getting knocked open during trail/off road use.

With the plain valve + little plastic retaining clip, as-shipped from Fumoto, I would say that it isn't too likely, but it is definitely possible for a rock, or more likely low scrub brush/branches & similar, to somehow catch & OPEN a Fumoto valve. (Depending on a lot of other factors -- exact style, position, type of skid plate(s) installed, ride height of vehicle, etc.)

As this is a low-probability / high-consequence event, best to try to reduce to probability as close to zero as possible, while still keeping a Fumoto in place. Fumoto sells a heavy-duty "Lever Lock" steel retaining clip that should reduce the likelihood of accidental opening by at least another order of magnitude. In the photos I am applying maximum possible finger pressure - nearly 22 lbs of force - to the lever; it doesn't budge at all. The lever is strongly retained against the brass ledge in the valve body, preventing it from rotating.

https://www.fumotousa.com/all-products/f-lock.html

Note, this clamp has a lot of force, cannot be put on or removed with bare fingers. A standard Leatherman-type needle nose pliers will work to get it off in a pinch, but putting it on with needle-nose-type pliers is close to impossible. Really best to have a dedicated clamp-ring pliers. (I tried 20 times or more with my Leatherman. No go - the clip kept springing off & landing everywhere. I even had to drop a skid plate to retrieve it on one of the bounces.)

NB: positioning on my vehicle/oil pan is not ideal w/ the fumoto lever pointing forwards. Wanted to point it rearwards but thread tightness did not allow for a safe additional half-turn without fear of stripping threads. Loosening half a turn also not a good idea. With the Lever Lock steel clip + skid plates back in place, if something manages to snag the main valve lever, most likely it will just bend or tear the lever tab off -- without opening the valve. I can live with that. Also I've been considering maybe using a Dremel tool to shorten the lever by 2/3rds. It doesn't take much force to operate & losing the extra length would help reduce snag risk even further.