Oregon and Washington BS thread

I got mine at Kartek, but you can find them on the interwebz all over the place. http://www.kartek.com/Category/486/Bolts-Washers-Nuts.aspx

They also carry the Pro-Am 12 points, but they are $$$.

 

so Ive been doing a little reading today.. Since the rubber isolation piece between my shift lever has failed, Ive been debating my route to fix it. I assumed Id go to a wrecking yard and just get a new shaft. I also thought today that Ill go make it a one piece unit and weld the two halfs together and be done with it (downside is more vibration/noise from transmission).

After reading coupes thread on xr-u (LINK) im thinking maybe i could just drill 2 holes on either side and fill it with poly epoxy? It seems thats what he does, but after he does a lot of extra crap for a short shifter. I wonder if that will fix the wobble, going through his write up does that seem like it might be a feasible option? Because I may might just say F it and give it a shot. lol

 

Seems like it is a pretty easy job

 

I did the "right stuff" mod about 6 years ago. It lasted a couple years then came completely apart. I cleaned all the rubber out of it and just welded it solid. Just a couple tacks through the holes that were already drilled did it.

 

I know you don't care about extra sound.... lol. I'm trying to keep the inside as quiet ad possible lol. Did you notice welding it solid to be that much louder?

 

Who wants to come wrench on my old Chevy with me and my cousin this weekend? I'll have beer

 

They REALLY need to do one for a first gen and need a test bed...

Let me know how that works out for you and I'll consider it.

Seriously, I'll take a look at it and start taking a look at funding. Thanks! I'd still be interested in a wrench/mod day with other people that might know specifically how to do this. A cruise up into Washington would be doable too at some point if one of these shindigs doesn't happen in the Portland area.

Edit: Any thoughts on

Callahan Brake Parts CCK11208 FRONT OE [2] Calipers + [2] Drilled/Slotted Rotors + Quiet Low Dust [4] Ceramic Pads Kit

THIS KIT? Is Callahan a good brand? My understanding is that slotted rotors are the best way to go. And the calipers are the bigger 13WL and red, so I don't have to paint them.

Also, I like these - I got the same ones for the rear when I did the lift. What I don't know is - would I need to order the ones for my 95-97 Taco, or do I need the ones for the 2005 Tundra to match the calipers? I don't know if brake line threads/size are standard or not.

Edit 2: After reading that exceedingly well done write-up instead of working, I know I can do this myself. Bleeding the brakes would be about the only challenging part I think. And there's also an important side-note about the spare tire...the wheel probably won't fit over the new caliper. Definitely worth a test fit. Workarounds include having a wheel spacer in the toolbox, or if there's a front flat, move a rear tire to the front and put the spare tire on the back. Extra work involved, but would be the cheaper solution.

 

Contrary to popular belief, my truck is very refined. It has several layers of soundproofing and is pleasant to drive down the highway. There is no noise off the shifter, but you do feel some vibration when you rest your hand on it. I find it shifts much more accurately now, and the vibes aren't that big of a deal.

 

All Toyota brakes (even drums) are threaded M10 female. Order the 95-97 Taco lines.

 

Perfect, thanks!

 

What is this shift lever you guys are talking about? The shifter is just one piece... I've taken out the tranmission and can't figure out what you're talking about

 

I think the might be talking about something on an auto?

I was thinking about when I installed my shortthrow and I can't remember any lever

 

Username is a manual tho...

 

You took the tranny out just to see what they were talking about? :joke:

 

Lol, yeah I'm never taking the damn thing out again! Taken it out two time too many.

 

They are talking about a manual. On the top of the transmission is a hooked lever that comes up with a ball-shaped end. The shifter shaft connects to this.

 

How bad was it? I don't have to do a clutch anytime soon but I will eventually.

 

The shift lever on the manual is a two piece unit, with a rubber union more or less between the two. The rubber has failed on mine. Which basically requires you to shift like there's no tomorrow. In gear I can move my whole lever around like it's in neutral, it's really annoying.

 

Green section is where the two parts meet with thr rubber isolation section. Red is of the two pieces.

 

Wow I had no idea, thanks for the clarification