Pulling to right but aligment in spec?

Your numbers maybe green but they could do better! No doubt!

 

Ok. Thanks for everyone's help! When/if I figure this out I'll post the results.

 

Knowing what you're doing and actually do it are not the same. I know several techs that KNOW how, but choose to take shortcuts and cut corners.

I'd be lying if I said I never did, it happens occasionally.

Ive watched techs intentionally falsify an alignment by using a pry bar ( and a newb tech ) to pull a car into spec, hit print and sent it down the road. It was too much work to actually loosen the cam bolts and move to the correct position ( rust and stuff, might get dirty....)

 

@Blkvoodoo I would hope that they didn't do something like that. Knowing the shop I went to though I wouldn't be completely surprised. I'm gonna work on it some this weekend and see what I can get done.

 

Sometimes even brand new tires, can cause a bad pull. I've that happen to me recently, all alignment was dead on the whole nine... And it turned out it was a bad set of tires, keep that in mind, it could be the tires. Side note they were the new Cooper ST Maxx's, so it wasn't like it was some off brand.

 

I have Mastercraft Courser MXT's on my truck. I don't think it would be them, because I didn't really notice it pulling as much as it is now until after the alignment was done originally. And the mechanic did said that they rotated the tires and it didn't change the pull at all. But i guess it isn't impossible.

 

If all else fails, at least keep it in mind.. Good luck.

 

So the guy drove the truck and felt the pull and it's still there ?

 

My truck did this after lifting and going to 285s. Had at my dealer 7 times for re-alignment and every time the computer showed it was in specification. I finally found a master mechanic that lifts vehicles and aligns on the side, he also said the computers will show green and inspec but with the lift and larger tire you multiply the variance if it's not in perfect alignment because the computer is using a specification guide for a stock truck - not a lifted truck's geometry.

You have to get camber to 0.0 and caster above 3 to stop the right pull. Mine is at 3.4 left 3.5 right. Truck finally doesn't pull right as it had for a frustrating 25,000 miles since lifting. I have LR UCAs also.

 

With the castor being so low, your steering is super sensitive...you want the caster at at least 2 or higher to settle down the steering problems, you need to find an alignment specialist that will take the time to do it right, someone who really understands what you are trying to achieve...

 

Yes

@EdinAthens so then yours would technically be out of spec but in all reality it is actually in spec? And what do you have your control arm caster plate set to? I'm with right around 3 inches of lift and I have mine set to the D setting I think.

 

It's 1 notch more than when the flat face where the logo is facing you. I don't have the install sheet to know the letter designation.

 

Drivers side:

 

Just talked to the mechanics at my work (I work for a city) and they said the shop I went to is a joke...

They suggested I go to another shop and have them look at it.
@EdinAthens mine is set on D. I'm guessing your is on C?

 

Yes - "C" setting

 

The unfortunate part is not every mechanic/technician has the ability to accommodate "modifications" from factory specs. some are cut and dried this is "what it is supposed to be" anything outside of those parameters and they're lost. "Oh, your truck is sitting 4" higher than stock ?" walks away wringing hands.

if there are any off road shops around, see where they take the vehicles they modify, unless they do it themselves, which then may be a better way to go.

 

Ok. I guess I'll go ahead and change the caster plate setting on my control arms and see if that does anything before I take it anywhere else. I'll post results when/if I figure this thing out.

 

Just be aware your toe alignment will change when you adjust caster plate on UCA.

 

I had the exact same problem... my lift was not as good as yours. I just used spacers front and back. it was in spec but pulled to the right. I took it back and asked them to test it and do it again... I got it back and it is fine now. I agree with the others... the range of in spec is large. If they won't do it again, ask for you money back and find another place.

Note that larger tires track a bit differently. Make sure is is really pulling and not just tracking with the crown of the road... I did that by driving on the passing lane of a highway... if it still pulls to the right you have an issue. if it pulls to the left you are just feeling larger tires.

Carl