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Lightbar wiring to fog lights

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Texan Tacoma, Jul 25, 2015.

  1. Jul 25, 2015 at 11:32 AM
    #1
    Texan Tacoma

    Texan Tacoma [OP] Texas Tech University

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    Hey guys, this is my first write up so bear with me.

    This method works great for bumper mounted lightbars or any lighting near the front our trucks.

    MATERIALS:
    ~lightbar (I used a 20" cheapo Amazon bar)
    Link: http://www.amazon.com/Penton-Lights-Waterproof-10v-30v-Offroad/dp/B00RV83UUG

    ~22-18 gauge butt connectors

    ~wire cutters

    ~low profile micro fuses greater than 15 amps.

    First disconnect your fog lights, if you have an aftermarket bumper this is already done from when you took the stock one off.
    You'll be left with these connectors. uploadfromtaptalk1437848522186.jpg

    These have two wires, the green one is positive, and the black/white is your negative.
    uploadfromtaptalk1437848609576.jpg

    Cut off the connector and strip the wires. They are 18 gauge wires. Connect your lightbars positive to green wire and negative to white wire with the butt connectors. uploadfromtaptalk1437848715799.jpg

    Lastly, since the lightbars pulls more amperage than the stock fogs, replace the 15 amp fuse with a higher rated one. In my case I used a 25 amp uploadfromtaptalk1437848870818.jpg
    uploadfromtaptalk1437848914193.jpg

    And you're done! No other wiring, just use the fog light button to turn off and on your lights.

    uploadfromtaptalk1437849005284.jpg
    4f63183b5a61db7edd68fda782591867_30bd31f18d587ce10c8d04b4573fbf31d1b9637b.jpg
     
  2. Jul 25, 2015 at 11:47 AM
    #2
    mjackson92rs

    mjackson92rs Well-Known Member

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    Not to bash your thread but you really shouldn't be increasing a fuse rating to 25 Amps on a circuit that was only designed to handle 10. Everything in that circuit was designed to handle a 10a Max load (wire size).

    You'll probably be fine, but just saying...
     
    Aws123 and greeneggsnspam like this.
  3. Jul 25, 2015 at 11:49 AM
    #3
    Texan Tacoma

    Texan Tacoma [OP] Texas Tech University

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    SAW 2.5s , mb vortex wheels, AeroTurbine 2525 with dump, Spyder headlights, Rocklights, custom bumper, SOS offroad carrier, etc..
    Thanks for the tip, it was a 15 amp however and 20 amp fuses work on it but I didn't have any, do you think a 5amp increase is fine?
     
  4. Jul 25, 2015 at 9:45 PM
    #4
    mjackson92rs

    mjackson92rs Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't sweat it. Maybe swap the 25a out for a 20a whenever you get a chance just to be on the safe side. Looks good by the way!
     
  5. Jul 30, 2015 at 9:35 AM
    #5
    Texan Tacoma

    Texan Tacoma [OP] Texas Tech University

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    Update: still working perfectly and no problems whatsoever with a 20 amp fuse.
     
  6. Jul 30, 2015 at 9:38 AM
    #6
    HAVVOKK

    HAVVOKK Well-Known Member

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    Fucking look it up
    Great idea will be doing this as soon as my bumper is done and I get a light bar thanks for the tip
     
  7. Jul 30, 2015 at 11:34 AM
    #7
    fergyz

    fergyz Mmmm...Tacos

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    i would suggest not cutting the stock connector off... you can easly put a male connector on the LED bar wiring. this will make it a plug and play deal.
     
    Texan Tacoma[OP] likes this.
  8. Jul 30, 2015 at 11:35 AM
    #8
    Texan Tacoma

    Texan Tacoma [OP] Texas Tech University

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    Great idea!
     
  9. Jul 30, 2015 at 1:02 PM
    #9
    theblindchicken

    theblindchicken Well-Known Member

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    I don't think it would be a very good idea to use the existing wiring for your light bar.

    Considering this wiring chart (http://www.offroaders.com/tech/12-volt-wire-gauge-amps.htm):
    12v_wire_gauge_table_zpsonvgbu21_203c96927a48aa231779bd1fa878d26dadba253d.jpg

    I wouldn't feel safe knowing that the wiring is undersize and more than likely overheating.

    This idea would be great for a pair of pods, but not a full sized bar.
     
  10. Aug 7, 2015 at 10:57 PM
    #10
    Texan Tacoma

    Texan Tacoma [OP] Texas Tech University

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    Works fine for me and still has yet to fail :bananadance::crapstorm:
     
  11. Aug 11, 2015 at 9:26 PM
    #11
    HAVVOKK

    HAVVOKK Well-Known Member

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    Fucking look it up
    So I stole your idea and used the fog light switch since I don't have them anymore any ways and used it to finish install on my ditch lights with my pods I'll take pics when finished tomorrow and post them here so others can see
     
  12. Aug 12, 2015 at 12:42 PM
    #12
    boogie3478

    boogie3478 Well-Known Member

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    Lol, the thing with wiring is that they will work fine right up to the point where they catch fire.
     
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  13. Aug 12, 2015 at 12:56 PM
    #13
    HAVVOKK

    HAVVOKK Well-Known Member

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    Fucking look it up
    Good way to check is open hood turn light bar on feel wires if wires are hot your running too much current and need to change your set up if wires aren't hot your good but must run light for minimum of 5 mins and feel wires at random intervals
     
  14. Aug 12, 2015 at 2:18 PM
    #14
    Texan Tacoma

    Texan Tacoma [OP] Texas Tech University

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    SAW 2.5s , mb vortex wheels, AeroTurbine 2525 with dump, Spyder headlights, Rocklights, custom bumper, SOS offroad carrier, etc..
    Yeah I left it on for about 45 mins when I first did this and they didn't warm up. People still think I'm crazy though :confused:
     
  15. Aug 12, 2015 at 2:46 PM
    #15
    Texan Tacoma

    Texan Tacoma [OP] Texas Tech University

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    SAW 2.5s , mb vortex wheels, AeroTurbine 2525 with dump, Spyder headlights, Rocklights, custom bumper, SOS offroad carrier, etc..
    Y'all were right I should have listened.

    uploadfromtaptalk1439415969715.jpg
     
  16. Aug 12, 2015 at 3:17 PM
    #16
    wing103

    wing103 Well-Known Member

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    I suggest you put the 15 amps fuse back, the fuse is to protect the wire and the devices..... not to make it not blow out the fuse...... Also if you put a biggest fuse in there you should change out the wire too. this is my suggestion. I do not want to see your truck on fire. By the way you have a nice truck.
     

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