best subwoofer between 50-80w RMS?

possibly a post better suited for a true audio forum but i know theres a few audiophiles on here.

im the never ending cycle of changing stereo systems im now changing gears to the sony headunit MEX-XB100BT, 40wRMS X 4, or 40w X 2 and 70w X 1 to a sub channel using the rear speaker channels. so now im on the hunt for a sub that preforms decently and is very efficient and can do well at 70w RMS.

I was looking at a few Dayton 6 1/2" and 8" woofers which seem to be a nice option for about $50 bucks. I can build a decent size box if needed but the smaller the box the better for me. likely build a ported box in the traditional sense, unless a certrain speaker preforms exceptionally well in a 1/4 wave t-line box.

any suggestions?

not looking for crazy bass, just filling the lows from 120hz on down.

 

You sure you can bridge those rear channels? 99.999% of headunits will shit brix if you try and bridge channels on them.

 

A headunit powered sub??

 

surprisingly this head unit is designed to bridge the rear channels to power a sub. i've never seen that concept before.

i would definitely go ported to boost efficiency and try to find something with high sensitivity.
this dayton gets decent reviews and high 80s sensitivity: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dcs165-4-6-1-2-classic-subwoofer-4-ohm--295-198

the only downside with any vented enclosure is that you need some type of subsonic filter to prevent over-excursion below the tuning frequency. it doesn't appear this HU provides such a function.

 

WITH A WAPPING 70Wrms from a deck which in real world would translate to much less power i highly doubt he would be in need of a SS filter.

 

Yeah, thats what my friend at work and i talked about today.
Also talked about doing 6x9 subwoofers in the rear speaker location if theres enough room for a box behind the panel. but i think they require more power than whats provided

 

Lol cracked me up too

 

That headunit does 40 watts peak not rms... Your rms will be about 17-18 per speaker... Silly

 

Best advice is no longer be that guys friend he's an idiot... Lol without a proper amp your sub will be seeing frequencies it is not designed to play... A sub is designed for lows... and that headunit will be trying to play the entire bandwidth lol

 

Why not just add a powered sub for under 150 bucks, if you're not expecting crazy bass?

 

erm....that deck has some juice

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zkLwQVHxfI

 

whether you can or not bridge channels on a head unit to power a sub, a minimum should be 200 watts. personally, I have to have at least 500, and with my setup, I am running 1200(zed minotaur) with my 2 sundown audio sd3 10s. they are probably only seeing 500-800ish, but best to have headroom.

 

Pretty impressive for a head unit. Perfect for guys who don't want to add amps.