5VZ-FE

Ah ok Thanks! I'm reading through your build rn XD

 

Don't do that, my build sucks...

 

Lol i aint got nothin else to do

 

Feel sorry for you man... Just dont judge

 

Lol looks good so far (page 15)

 

Speaking of your build, what red CV boots are you running? Are those the ones for lifted trucks that don't eat themselves up with 3" + lifts? I'm looking to do a mid-travel setup and the CVs have been a concern of mine.

x2. OP, your thread is motivating haha. My OE exhaust is in the way of a bud built trac bar install and I haven't done anything about it for a long time- I really hate to get rid of the OE exhaust (I really appreciate how quiet my truck is) but this post is acting like a catalyst for me to get stuff done. Grabbed some parts to make a custom 3" cat-back so I'm ready to turbo later.

For sh*ts and giggles I un-bolted the OE catback and bolted on (its fricken bolt-on) my old IS300 resonator to see what that sounded like (would give me clearance for the trac bar). This mod did wonders for my bud's 3-slow 1990- it sounds great and makes an improvement throughout the powerband- on my truck it was super mega drone- so custom 3" here I come (have a 3" Dynomax VT just sitting here- I hate drone).

 

Thanks Right now I've got a delta flow 50 on my truck and there's really only drone at idle and at 2000-3500 it sounds sporty but between 3500 and 4000 the sounds sorta disappears then comes back at 5000. Idk if thats good but i like it! lol

 

So ive got a 7.3l diesel turbo with a built in bov. My question is, is can the 3.4 spool this turbo?
.83A/R

 

Sure. Somewhere around redline.

The turbine A/R is only respective to turbo size and inlet size. You need a turbo more properly matched to your litre size and power goal size.

www.turbobygarrett.com. <<< size calculator

 

yeah i've used that calculator a few times the only reason i haven't considered other turbos is because the 7.3 was free XD

 

You'll be happiest with a properly sized turbo. Even if that on is free.

 

Probably so, its always best to do it right even if you have to wait longer. Plus if the guy who gave it to me doesn't mind maybe we can exchange turbos for one that's the proper ratio

 

I ordered reman OEM shafts from CVJ axels and asked for their high angle boot option. I won't say it doesn't eat itself but its better than stock.

Brice, (I didn't read all replies, working through the weekend), def need to build top end; valves limit power and RPM's to ~5000rpms. A more aggressive cam profile and raised RPM's to 6-7k will do wonder's on your top end. Its an over square engine so making revs should be easy with top end work.

You have cast crank and con rods; generally the crank will fail first. the 3VZ-FE (not 3VZ-E) crank is forged and is a drop in replacement if you are looking to save a few bucks.

 

definitely looking to save. I was told to leave the top alone (which I wont). Im having a hard time finding cams for the 5VZ (like not at all) Would grinding be a better option? Also if you check my parts list i plan to rebuild the top end completely (new valves, springs, etc)

 

Contact LCE. They will know better than almost anyone.

 

yeah..I just don't wanna fork over $250 per cam . Some guys were mentioning that price on another forum...Torspd what did you end up running for a turbo again?

 

There have been talks of using the 3VZ-FE cams as they SHOULD be swapable (more agressive). Never seen it done though. Seemed there was an issue with the 3VZ cam's having the Distributor "notch" or something like that. I didn't quite understand it but you can look into it for sure.

Otherwise, $250 per cam isn't super bad. You're going to have to get used to it.

 

6266 Precision, or Garrett GT35. GT30 will likely be your best bet. The larger variant.

 

Yeah. $1k for DOHC cams for two banks is actually cheap. Mine were ~$1400.

 

Lol yeah I guess i will. Well I know a guy that can get me cams and a crank on the cheap i just gotta ask him about it...