Replacing the Hydraulic Tensioner on my 1998 Tacoma V6 Engine

I am replacing my water pump, timing belt, and hydraulic tensioner. I removed the water pump but before I mount the new one I want to replace the tensioner. The tension pulley is already removed. Now it appears I need to move the A/C pump (!!??) .

Can I replace the HT without moving the A/C pump? If not, if somebody could tell me what to do I would really appreciate it. I'm afraid of removing the wrong bolts and discharging the A/C system.

Right now the PS pump is disconnected and out of the way and the radiator and front scrape pan are off. I can work from underneath the engine. Looking at the parts illustration, the part that's in the way of one of the bolts holding the HT is called a "compressor bracket". Which bolts do I remove to let me move the bracket and get to the HT?

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Last night I read in a thread that the A/c compressor did NOT need to be removed to remove the hydraulic tensioner, but for the life of me I cannot find that thread...

In everything I've read and seen about timing belts a lot of folks say they remove the HT to put it in a vise to compress it. So how do they remove it with that A/C compressor in the way?

 

Use your eyeballs! You need a shallow 1/4" drive socket, a 1/4" swivel and a 1/4" extension that just clears the oil pan lip. I like to use a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter just to use a longer ratchet. Come at it almost vertical from the edge of the oil pan to minimize the angle.

 

Yes to your diagram questions, 1,2,& 3 as I recall. I just replaced my timing chain this spring so it's still fairly fresh in mind. Pull the four bolts holding the a/c unit to bracket and move the a/c unit as near the firewall as you can. You can zip tie or baling wire it to gain the most room. Then you need to pull the bolts holding the bracket in place (four or five? of those).

No need to remove any a/c hoses, and those connections are very hardy so the unit is not going to discharge on you if you stick to the bolts you outlined.

XCMTB83's advice sounds like a possible solution. It really depends on what tools you have. Some of those a/c bolts were not in the friendliest access spots, but I use a battery ratchet and flex sockets as needed so much simpler to pull difficult bolts. Wouldn't have been that big a deal with a wrench either as I recall.

 

Let me clarify, I was giving instructions on how to remove the tensioner not the compressor.

 

Understood, and a good solution if you have the right tools. I remember looking at that back bolt and no way I was going to be able to get at it with 3/8" drive.

 

I started this morning at 8am. After 2.5 hours I removed the compressor bracket from the block using various combinations of 1/2-inch drive and 3/8-inch drive. Then I replaced the hydraulic tensioner and started reassembling everything. At 1pm the bracket and the A/C compressor were reinstalled and the bolts torqued. I was not able to get a torque wrench in there to tighten two of the bracket-to-block bolts so I had to settle for as tight as I could. Used a 3/8-inch rachet and a foot of schedule 80 PVC to get everything tight. Boy it was a bitch to undo those bolts. Had to use all my strength, but I got 'em undone without scraping my knuckles.