Another "Lift" question..Now with results

Posted next to each other:





I'd say mine has more rake, which I wanted to maintain. The truck in your pick looks like it might have more front end lift to level the truck, likely close to 3" with 2" in the rear if those are 285s. My tires are about 1" smaller. The larger tires will cost mpgs and power.

You can still get it here (you do not need the brackets mentioned, they are included): http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=332777

The thick one is the overload. You can remove the overload for better ride and articulation (still firmer than stock) or leave it in for a little more lift/heavy load capacity (such as towing heavy items). I chose to remove mine and am very happy with the performance. The 3 leafs + overload is the good stock spring, the 2 leaf + overload are the ones that people replace.

I actually was crazy enough to order both the Pro kit and the Baja Pro kit. The Pro kit is supposed to be softer than the Baja, with different valving, coated remote reservoir lines and softer springs (600lbs Pro vs 650lbs Baja). The Pro kit was $180 more. In my research I messaged others on TW that had driven both the Baja and the Pro, the Pro was described as having more nose dive when braking and that the Baja was more fun to drive. Although I ordered the Pro kit, it would not ship. There was a stop ship placed on them and the Toyota dealer I spoke to suggested there is something wrong with the stand alone kit (like it was missing a piece) and Toyota wouldn't release the kits till it fixed the issue. I'm not sure what the story is, but I had a trip planned and wanted to get the truck modified before the trip and the Pro setup wasn't going to make it in time. I was concerned the Baja might be too firm, but ended up really liking it, so I just cancelled my Pro order.

As mentioned earlier you could also get the Bilstein 6112 and 5165s for a similar less expensive setup.

 

UCAs (front Upper Control Arms) are needed to correct suspension geometry for proper alignment when lifting. As a general rule, if you go much over 2" you will need them. Toyota determined the stock ones were acceptable at 2". That said you can get even greater travel using aftermarket UCAs in any lift so there is still an advantage.

 

I have a question!

Added a 3 inch lift, 18 inch rims and 33 inch tires. I'm assuming my stock 17 inch spare won't work and need to replace also? 2014 DCLB Sport 4x4 Stormtrooper.

 

Nope, your VSC would go crazy.

 

If you just want the lift done "right" for cheap, do 5100s set at 1.75 with stock springs. If you want a more supple ride, use Eibach or Emu coils on 5100s and an AAL. It sounds like you really aren't using it hard, so you don't really "need" a rear leaf pack. Just avoid rear blocks - they give the axle more torque on the springs, increasing the likelyhood of axle wrap.

For tires, I would say go 255/85/16 (no wheel spacer) because you can have full size 33s without trimming - I even have mudflaps still! 285 tires are wider, so more likely to require trimming if offroading at all (some say they have no problem).

 

Take a look at my build thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/arcticelfs-long-bed-build.384189/

I did it cheap the first time (tirerack.com spacer/block lift). Made the truck handle like a sports car on road, and did okay in the swamp, but I have very little front suspension articulation. And I bought alignment/ball joint issues by pushing the stock UCAs w/ 3" front lift.

Now I'm doing it right, going for a mid-travel set up (more to follow once the parts show up). New UCA, Dakar springs, Icon extended travel shocks all around. This will cost 5x what the cheap lift cost (at least).

Given the roads in Worcester you will wear out ball joints and bushings if you go for lots of lift on the cheap. On the flip side, you can replace all that stuff several times for less than the cost of a proper lift. And for show/road driving that might not be a bad tradeoff. Pick which issues you'd like to face but at least you know more than I did going into it.

I'd suggest, based on your comments, that you pick the tires/wheels you want, then figure out how much lift and frame/body modification is required. Going lift then tires/wheels will drive you insane with the number of options...

And Good luck,
AE

 

FWIW - I just did a complete Old Man Emu (OME) lift on my 2015 Tacoma. After reading TacomaWorld, talking to the Toyota dealer in town, the owner of the local off-road shop, and the folks at the custom car mod shop (they do lifts, muscle cars, custom fab) everyone of them pointed me to Old Man Emu.

Things to consider - I did not use the OME recommended coils (#885s). Instead I did the 887's which provide close to 3" lift. This required I upgrade the Upper Control Arms in order to make sure things align properly. I also installed OME's Dakar rear leaf pack (which makes the rear much stiffer and gave me over 3" of lift). Going in a straight line at 75mph I cannot tell a difference at all. It rides super smooth.

Going over speed bumps, forest service roads, construction areas, driveways, you can definitely feel the difference. It's much stiffer.

Ironically this last full tank of gas included a trip in 4x4 up a forest service road in Low and 2nd gears. Combined with my every day driving I calculated 19.3mpg on that tank. Expected much worse. This is almost exactly what I average just driving highway to and from work. Keeping in mind I don't have giant AT tires though!

I've been lucky and have NOT noticed any driveline vibration. Only issue so far is squeakiness from the front suspension after hitting that forest service trail. Need to do my 500mile checkup with the installer except they are currently moving out of their facility into a brand new one they had custom built.

 

Thanks for all the information guys, it's a lot to take in. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

 

You know the roads in Worcester my friend!!!!! They are awful!!! I couldn't get picks last night of the dealership lift. We had torrential downpours. I'll go tonight.


I'm thinking the Trd suspension is good for me. Lifts it enough to show it's not stock. Yet not high enough to cause any problems(as far as I can see as read reviews). But it seems to be hard to get. Some say they discontinued it. After a few more replies I'll look into getting that kit(or another one if it comes up). Looking at the OME lift which also looks great

 

You need new uca when you lift over 3" to correct the alignment. If you stay with stock youll still be able to drive and all but most likely youll never get proper alignment and youll soon have a strong pull to one side.
If Im correct because of their function you can run bigger tires with less worry. Hope this helps and if you need more info here is what chris4x4 said in a thread when talking about not getting new uca with 3" lift,
"And by "Perfect", There is no way he got it back into the 0* toe, 0* Camber, and 2+* caster that is Perfect when lifted 3". The alignment may be "In spec", but by sacrificing caster, and adding a little more Camber"
Good luck! Hope this helps!

Here is the thread form the previous quote
:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/did-you-get-ucas-with-your-3-lift.118515/
And one from alignment:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ight-racing-ucas.158795/page-36#post-10642677

 

FTFY

 

FTFY? means?

 

Thanks Crash. you answer questions beautifully. I wouldn't go with the cheaper 6112 & 5165's. I like the complete Baja kit you have. I think that's perfect. thanks again

 

Fixed that for you

 

Is Cooper the only ones making a 255 33" AT tire?? I can't find any others. Not that Coopers are bad....

 

There are others. I have the Toyo M55 in that size - just don't look at the price tag.

 

I totally agree! Ideal cheap setup (also my current project installing) is 5100s with some type of coil, I went with 887 considering im double cab and plan on getting skids in the future, Set the 5100s to 0 and no higher with any larger coil. If you use stock coils go .85-1.75, I suggest .85 but just imo. For rear because you wont be going to hard but youll still want function go with an aal 1.5-2" and some rear 5100s. If you want a nicer but still affordable lift go with some ome shocks. I have no experience with them but from what I can see everyone loves them. For tires stay around 16" or 17" wheels and just get more rubber. This will give you better offroad performance. I personally don't like the low and wide tires so I would go with 265/70/17 or something along those lines. You can do 285/75/16 but youll be trimming and most likely need to do a cab mount cut mod. Good luck and feel free to ask questions, youll find that I am no expert haha

 

Oh lol did I mess up on something?

 

UCAs are HIGHLY recommended at 2.5" and above. You said 3" nbd

 

Haha dam my bad, I spaced out when writing that. Thanks man!