best sub for 2nd gen double cabs

not looking for 2 subs..just maybe 1 single 10 that produces good power and bass, but will fit behind our seats in an enclosure. I have some older equipment, but it just doesnt fit the bill at all for me.

 

I run one of these. Great bass and don't rob a lot of space. Fits behind the drivers seat on floor.

 

i just put a kicker comp 10 behind the passenger back seat in a enclosure i made. but i modeled it after the one on http://www.supercrewsound.com/05tacomadblsingle.html
i mounded my amp under the driver seat. pretty decent base will vibrate my mirrors and clean to. can barely see the amp. pretty much the whole set up is hidden

 

crutchfield has some good ones that fit behind passenger rear could mount amp behind rear seat driver side real clean looking install that way...... never mind t total tacoma nailed it

 

Jl 13tw5 is the best sub for our trucks.

 

Bear in mind that "Best" for you might not be "Best" for me or anyone else...

The install shop that I used to work at had a complete 12v audio setup that had a really long sub wiring that we would drop a sub (and box) into the customer's vehicle to give them an idea of what each sub sounds like in their car, and that won us so many sales I can't imagine.... but I know that most install shops won't go to that extent.

"Best" is subjective.... go down to an audio shop and listen.

Or are you just planning on buying online??

 

I just finished a complete aftermarket stereo in my 2G double cab. I did my research and ended up with the shallow mount Alpine SWR-T12. I installed two of them in a custom built box behind the rear seats. A lot of people will tell you the JL's are the best shallow mount sub for the tacomas, but not too many people know about these Alpines. They are relatively new, and they are by far the best out there for shallow mount applications. Buy on ebay for great prices. Normal retail is $600 each, but I found two brand new ones for $550 for the pair. I have a 1300 watt RMS Alpine mono amp pushing them and they haven't even flinched.

 

can you send pics of the box that is behind your seat? did you have to remove all the plsctic on the seat back? I want a clean look not something I have to hack up my truck for.

 

subd...

 

Hey cc350 what brand/speaker is that?

 

Wow $550 for 2 shallow mounts is kinda steep, no? I don't doubt they sound great, but it seems like a lot for just the subs. I am highly experienced with car audio and have been installing and designing systems for years. They appear to be great subs, but I just think its a lot to spend on drivers alone. I'm not trying to persuade OP against what you have said, but just trying to supply additional info for him to make his own decision.

Alpine and JL are top performing manufacturers in the mobile audio industry. There are brands way betted, but they also unrealistically expensive and are more for people with over $10k ready to blow on a competition system. With that being said, I have a personal liking to both these brands, but in their own way. Here is my outtake on them:

Alpine has amazing products in regards to up to date technology, audio processing, quality, and many other factors. I like their high level of integration and clean look in all aspects. My view on alpine is that their head units are packed with top notch features and technology, but their plane look UI just ruins it for me. Their amps are just hands down some of the best I've heard. Their subs however have left me greatly disappointed considering I know what alpine is capable of. I think their subs come off too deep and don't deliver a very even sound curve. I would buy Alpine subs for competition systems because they can handle whatever you push to them, and they can deliver insane SPL (sound pressure levels).

Now for JL. I have a personal favoritism going on for JL products. My very first system ever when I was 16 consisted of a basic pioneer head unit, a bottom of the line discontinued JL amp and a single 10" JL w1. I put it in a tiny Walmart sub box and it sat next to me on the bench of my 87' Silverado. Ghettoist system I ever installed in my life, but let me sell you what... it sounded pretty dam good all things considered. Since then I have personally ran JL in all my vehicles and have much experience with different models. I now run the 2nd Gen JL stealthbox which retails around $750. Seen here:



It is preloaded with two 10w1v2-4 subs (10" series 1 version 2 at 4ohm each) and fits perfectly into a modified rear storage panel. It does not come close to what my old W3's put out, but for our trucks, it is more than enough. I think JL makes a slightly higher grade product than Alpine in respects to drivers (speakers and subs)

With all this said, I get the impression that OP is looking for something of good quality and willing to spend some money for it, but also wants to keep it simple and not looking for something too crazy. I used a single 10w1v2-4 and built a custom fiberglass enclosure for my EX's single cab Tacoma. It was designed to be small and simple and was just to provide a nice bass that can be well heard and even felt at times, but won't rattle your doors and hurt your ears. This was my first fiberglass project about 5 years ago but it came out decent and sounded great. Is almost exactly what OP has in mind I believe. You can buy a pre-fabbed single 10" wedge style box or have one made. It will most likely replace the driver side year storage... exactly opposite of my stealthbox. Takes up very little room, looks clean, and is much much cheaper than most other options. Another benefit is that it is still considered a full size sub and not "slim" so it delivers much better sound that way. Of require very little wattage to run and is top quality. One of these will sound about 50x better than the self powered subs in post 2, and also be way louder and cleaner. You can purchase one of these and a JL amp for the same price as those 2 shallow mount alpines. I don't have a completed picture but here is the box I made:





Simple yet very effective. Two of these will bump very clean sound for a very good price.

Just something to consider. Its good to get all the facts. Hope this helps somewhat. I'm more than happy to supply more info and picture if needed.

 

OP, where are you located? I get just about any brand (except kicker) of mobile audio for just above cost. Sometimes its still cheaper for me to purchase the item, add a finders fee , and even ship it than it would be to purchase online or at a shop. Not always, but something else to consider for whatever decision you make. I just purchased about $800 worth of equipment and shipped to member in Alaska for about $600 total including shipping, and AK is expensive to ship to. Just let me know.

 

ProForce,

I respect your opinion of car audio as you seem to be experienced in it. I agree 100% with you regarding Alpines products, especially their really basic UI. To answer your question/comment I do think 550 for the pair of Alpine shallow mount 12's is a good price, especially considering the product you are getting. They are normally 600 for one, so I get them for 275 for one. If you line that price up with the competition, that is by far the best shallow mount sub for the price. No other shallow mount at this price point can handle 600 watts RMS 1800 max, and with the amount of R&D Alpine pours into their products.

You get products at cost huh? That's way cool, I'm jealous! Are you a dealer that gets manf warranties? Most of my stuff was bought on ebay, which means no warranties. Blast!

 

I haven't personally heard the Alpine shallow mounts you have so I can't bash them. I'm sure they sound beautiful though, And for that price they better! Lol. I'm not saying all alpine subs suck, because they most certainly don't. It has just been my personal overall experience that I don't like the sound produced by alpine as much as I like JL. But everyone likes different sounds better ans every person hears things differently as well. Seems like you got a great deal too

And yeah Im not a dealer but one of the shops I used to work for still hooks it up. They will write an invoice for regular price so warranties and everything are still valid. They are an authorized dealer so everything is covered. And its dealer cost not manufacturing cost so its still marked up, but still way cheaper than retail. I just do install as a hobby/side job now so the connection is nice to have and I am able to help out a lot of other people with it. That's how my $6000 system really only cost like $2000 instead. Otherwise there is no way I'd spend that much on a stereo.

I'm actually considering buying an Alpine Sound Processor real soon here. I have owned several Alpine products and they have been amazing. The unit retails around $800 and the controller for it is around $300. EBay can have em for around $580 and $230 respectively. I haven't checked my prices yet but I'm hoping for $500-600 total for both. Well see.

I do offer this connection to others. But sometimes shipping gets pricey, plus I do add a small "finders fee" to help benefit me and pay me for my time. Its usually still cheaper that way depending on what you buy, but not always.

 

Everyone bashes on Rockford but I still love my little 10" shallow

 

Is this a double cab? If so, is the bolt that child seats need to attach to still available for use (no I would not run sub, when kids are in car )

 

I dont remember how this setup impacts the use of child latches... im almost positive that they are still accessible. You mean the latches between the seat back and seat bottom right? Im pretty sure those arent affected. You can double check jlaudio.com and ill try to remember to check my truck when i get a chance. And yah its a double cab

 

It doesn't affect the bottom latches. The ones on the back of the bottom cushion are still there.

 

The tether latches will definitely be blocked.

 

The latches on the back of the seat are still there after the install. I don't believe they interfere with the box itself. Unless there are some other latches where the tray use to be.