BamaToy's Garage and Diagnostic Center.

Year: 2012
Make: Toy
Model: (including if Pre-runner, SR5, TRD, etc) Tacoma TRD Sport
Engine size: 4.0

On top of this basic information it would be VERY helpful to include:

Is a lift installed: yes
Aftermarket components: (this means ANY changes from factory parts including AIR intake, CAC intake, headers, Supercharger not factory? Include this) S/C, aftermarket A-arms, full front suspension gussets, Icon coilovers
Is there an alarm system installed: (not one that is ACTIVE, but are the wires still wired up under the dash?) No
When did you first notice the problem?: Coming home from Moab, steering wheel was a bit knocked out.
How often does it occur?:
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: None
Have you checked codes?: N/A

Toe alignment is out quite a bit and there's no more thread adjustment left. Is it possible that I've "jumped" the steering rack?

 

If you can take a couple more photos of that from a different angle, including the steering rack mount, and a picture of the entire alignment sheet so I can see the other side, it would be appreciated.

Initial thoughts is the steering rack may have shifted in the mounting area (Bent mount, bent bolts) or, and what looks might be possible here but can't tell from a single photo, the tire rod may be bent, or the spindle mount for steering is bent.

 

New spindles, steering rack appeared fine and tight. I trimmed a little bit and got it within 1/16". Been on the road all night and wear and temps look good.

 

Sounds good. Let me know what it looks like when you are done.

 

Thank you Bill for fielding questions.
Today I changed my plugs (thanks to @chris4x4 fir the excellent write up! https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-spark-plug-change-1-gr-fe.30479/#post-469086)

Here is some info on my truck:
Year: 2011
Make: Toyota
Model: Tacoma (DCLB SPORT 4x4 FTMFW)
Engine size: 4.0 (1 GR-FE)
Is a lift installed: yes
Aftermarket components: no engine mods, suspension mods only (mild lift, ~3" OME + Bilsteins)
Is there an alarm system installed: no
When did you first notice the problem?: today. 81,946 miles.
How often does it occur?: N/A
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: N/A
Have you checked codes?: No

As the plugs were pulled I labeled them as to where they came from:

#1 is passenger side toward firewall
#3 is passenger side toward radiator
#4 is driver side toward firewall
#6 is driver side toward radiator

So when I was done, I inspected all the plugs I pulled and noticed this:






It should be noted that just prior to swapping the plugs I changed the oil... AND just prior to changing the driver's side plugs, I started the truck an turned it around in the garage to have better light for changing the drivers side plugs.

Although some plugs were easier to break loose than others, but I do not recall any single plug being significantly easier to break from its seat than any of the others. This was probably one of the easier ones to break loose?

All plugs were torqued to 15 ft/lbs when replaced.

Could it be that:
- #4 was just not torqued properly?
- Bad valving?
- Cracked block?

What are your thoughts?

Thanks in advance for your help!!

 

I don't see anything to be concerned about. The #4 plug you are referencing in your picture is classified as the #6 cylinder (driver side, closest to firewall) Perhaps I am missing something in the photo, but everything looks acceptable. The center electrode is worn, but so are the others. Typical wear for 80k miles.

 

Thank you @chris4x4 & @BamaToy1997 for your responses.

I didn't explain the plug from cylinder 6 (labeled #4 in photo) had a coating of oil on it as I pulled it from the cylinder. That's what was concerning to me.

But I agree with the assessment regarding the electrode, it doesn't look any different than the others and they all had very even & consistent wear (about a 0.050" gap).

The truck does seem to have a little more pep to it when I drove into work this morning! It's amazing what a hundredth of an inch can do for combustion.

 

The valve cover gasket kit has 3 small round seals for each valve cover. This is what seals the opening for where the spark plug passes through the valve cover. It is not unusual for one of those seals to develop a leak. There was not a significant amount of oil on the spark plug that would have me concerned. If there was more oil that you cleaned off, then it might be time to consider getting a valve gasket KIT (Only the kit comes with the round seals) and replace them.

 

This is reassuring @BamaToy1997 .
Thank you for this service that you provide!

Over my years of coming here, I have always placed a high value on your posts because of your cut to the chase answers and knowledge you inject into a thread.

Same goes for you @chris4x4 ! I have heard firsthand from people you've helped about how generous you are with your skill set as well.

You guys are awesome! Thanks again for your help!!

 

Year: 2000
Make: Toyota
Model: Taco prerunner
Engine size: 2.7L

Is a lift installed: no
Aftermarket components: recently installed full stereo
Is there an alarm system installed: RS3000
When did you first notice the problem?: After poking around fuse box and pulling a 4AWG cable through firewall near junction IF2, where main engine loom enters cabin
How often does it occur?: still present
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: I have ruled out break in continuity of IAC circuit. I have confirmed spark. I have confirmed fuel pressure and injector pulse.
Have you checked codes?: n/a

Hello, and thank you for this thread. I'll try to summarize whats going on, but the most thorough information will be in the thread i made:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/no-start-engine-is-getting-spark-and-fuel-fried-ecu.387148/

Im not unfamiliar with electronics and engine diagnostics. Though its been frustrating having a no start issue on my own car as opposed to someone else's. I have had a no start issue since the event listed above. I have ruled out spark and fuel. The RS3000 would disable the starter if that was effecting it. I have been almost certain it was the ECU got shorted out somehow. It was taken to a module repair shop, they could not find any sign of overload. I by chance got the car to start when there was something leaning on the gas pedal. I have learned it will start with the throttle held open, but will not idle at all.

Using the 2000 3RZ wiring diagram for the ECU, i have confirmed all circuits relating to the IAC, including the EFI and fuel pump (circuit opening) relays, B+ to the ECU, and grounds.

Issue is i want to make sure its the IAC before i drop $200 on a new one. Out of the three pins, the center is always B+, the top is labeled as RSD. When testing, I connect the center to power, RSD to ground. The valve jumps closed and open again. The valve stays open at rest. I don't believe the valve was operating before i removed it from the throttle body, but the motion was so minimal it was hard to tell without looking at the flap move. Is this correct?

Also im concerned that if i still have to replace my ECU, where i can even get one. The ECU ends in number 04631. I have not seen another ECU of this model in all my searching.

 

ECU connectors - California Spec




ECU connector- Non California







Those are your connector and ECU information for the 2000 3RZ-FE engine

 

As for your specific condition, it does sound like a sticking or stuck IAC valve could be the culprit. You are on the right track I believe. What I am curious about is why this happened when you simply pulled cable through the firewall. Did you happen to have the key in the ignition, or the key turned on? My thought process is that perhaps when you pulled cable, a wire got chaffed and grounded out, popping the capacitor on the ECU. I would check all of the wires that pass through the area you used for the 4 gauge cable, and check on both sides of the firewall for a chaffed wire. You can tell if it is currently shorted out by disconnecting the ECU, as well as the IAC and checking for a short to ground on the control wire side to the ECM. Also make sure that the ground at terminal E is still present.

 

Nice, thank you for the pin guide. Im installing a new IAC today. I found one on ebay for $50. Its a cheap Chinese knockoff, and im cringing putting something non OEM on my car, but i cant afford the OEM one right now. Odd thing is it is functioning the same way as the old one when i plug it in-and-out form the harness. Again, i think the old one started working after i removed it form the throttle body. Ill report back later on this.

If this isnt it, ill start using the pages you posted to go pin by pin.

 

Victory!!!



Car is running again. It was totally the IAC. It was caked with carbon, though what is more interesting are the readings from the new valve vs the old valve.

The old valve showed 61k ohms on the control side and no continuity on the ground side. The new valve gave 25k ohms on the control side and 9k ohms on the ground side.....

So maybe all the carbon got into the solenoid and killed the circuit. Either way its fixed. Im planning on replacing both PCV's, but is there any other way i can prevent so much oil and buildup in the intake?

 

Awesome! I hope my information was of some help.

 

is it a pita to change the intake gaskets

 

For which engine? The 2.4, 2.7, 3.4 or 4.0?

 

The 4.0, sorry should have been more specific.

 

Year:2006
Make:Tacoma
Model: TRD offroad
Engine size: 4.0

Is a lift installed: Bilstein 5100 @ 2.5
Aftermarket components: ECGS bushing
Is there an alarm system installed: no
When did you first notice the problem?: After ECGS bushing install
How often does it occur?: On and off at first, now constant
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: Nothing
Have you checked codes?: ABS code 32

After installing my ECGS bushing on my front drivers side, the ABS light came on, then went off again. This happened for a few days now it is on full time. I think I stretched the abs wire while I had the hub let go from the lower ball joint. Can I just cut out the length of abs wire going to the sensor and replace it? What size wire should I use if so?

Thanks