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Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Discussion in 'Solid Axle Suspension' started by Supra TT, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. Aug 20, 2015 at 7:35 AM
    #6081
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    The companys inputs/couplers are a different thread pitch and won't work. You are stuck with tg or stock Toyota stuff. I have only read this on the internet though and not experienced this first hand. Snowy isnt this why your stuff would not bolt together?

    Gear head, or anyone building a crawler: No matter what you go with here's a tip that i learned the hard way that doesn't seem to be written anywhere: Coat all the splines of the input and coupler with anti seize when you install it. If you do not do this and use plain red grease or nothing, the splines with "fret", the splines rub against each other rust and fail, causing you to strip out the input. When i first built my duals this happened almost one year to the day after i installed them, the week before i was going on a wheeling trip 10hrs one way away, that would have sucked. I called up marlin and asked them WTF, and they told me very matter of factly that i should have coated it in anti seize, i told them i must have missed it in the zero sets of written instructions anywhere on assembling these. I tried some uber expensive grease used in steam turbine splines, but it flung off and grey anti seize is the only thing that worked. I put 30k+ trouble free miles on it since. I also recommend changing the fluid evrey 6months regardless of use, and if it comes out with any red in it, pull the cases and check the inputs out to make sure its not rusting and fretting.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2015
  2. Aug 20, 2015 at 10:28 AM
    #6082
    Snowy

    Snowy Is neither here nor there

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    Have to keep it TG coupler to TG 4.7 or Marlin to Marlin like slander said.

    I'm just an idiot and learned the hard way that the 23 spline side of a coupler fits snuggly over the 26 spline output on my trans but the crawler won't mount to the 26 spline side...:rolleyes:

    Bunch of anti-seize and mine is still doing fine in DD service almost a year later
     
  3. Aug 20, 2015 at 11:26 AM
    #6083
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    Winston Salem, NC
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    fj60 front, fj80 rear, full hydro, 5.29's, welded, twin sticked 2.28/4.70 duals, 39.5's, inboarded 63's
    I guess I'm selling mine and building a marlin setup. I like that their gear doesn't neck down at the splines. And I didn't put shit on mine when I swapped my cases around between my 82 and the Tacoma and I haven't had any issues
     
  4. Aug 20, 2015 at 1:18 PM
    #6084
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    I would keep an eye on it, or even drop the cases and slather some anti seize on there (if you have a trans jack, its what an afternoon in the garage if that). That is one of the most inconvenient parts to break on the truck when on the trail or street, your pretty much F'd at that point. Look on marlins board in the forsale section, there's a dude selling a dual setup for 900 bucks i think in the Carolinas, i think its 21spline but it has the upgraded internals and the inputs can be easily swapped.

    Snowy: That would do it, LOL.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2015
    Gear Head likes this.
  5. Aug 20, 2015 at 1:30 PM
    #6085
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    fj60 front, fj80 rear, full hydro, 5.29's, welded, twin sticked 2.28/4.70 duals, 39.5's, inboarded 63's
    What's a tranny jack? Lol. I bench pressed mine out last time
     
  6. Aug 20, 2015 at 1:51 PM
    #6086
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    Yea F that, been there, done that, never again! The trans jack was the best 200 bucks ive spent!! It is penny's compared to blowing your shoulder out or collapsing your ribcage! LOL
     
    thekernel114 likes this.
  7. Aug 20, 2015 at 2:16 PM
    #6087
    ajohnson

    ajohnson Glamour Shot

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    Andy
    Charlotte, NC
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    Things and stuff and such
    I borrow a hydraulic cart from work, it has a removable handle and works awesome as a trans jack.

    [​IMG]

    I have been trying to find one locally for myself, but I can't find one without the release lever on the handle so the handle can come off like the one pictured
     
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  8. Aug 20, 2015 at 3:06 PM
    #6088
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    Mine is a big red that i ordered from northern tool. Handle can swivel damn near 360*, separate knob to lower it, and you can adjust the angle of the platform side to side, and back and forth.

    Apparently home depot sells it now as well: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Big-Red-...gclid=CIPg_PPVuMcCFYgBaQodYMACkA&gclsrc=aw.ds

    I also use it for my heavy PITA all pro skid plate and for moving crap around the garage.
     
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  9. Aug 20, 2015 at 3:11 PM
    #6089
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    How much does a fully built dual case weigh?
     
  10. Aug 20, 2015 at 3:13 PM
    #6090
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    It's not that heavy, maybe 100#. Its just an awkward shape and the weight is very uneven.
     
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  11. Aug 20, 2015 at 3:17 PM
    #6091
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    Thanks!
     
  12. Aug 20, 2015 at 6:29 PM
    #6092
    allenfab

    allenfab I hate everything

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    Radflo's finally arrived. Hopefully this thing will be driveable by next weekend.

    image.jpg
     
  13. Aug 21, 2015 at 5:12 AM
    #6093
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    Its the "fine tuneing" to get it to mate up that makes it hard. Its nice to be able to tilt the cases side to side, fore and aft with a knob rather than arms shaking, swearing and trying to stab it on there before the trv sets or you blow out your o ring LOL! You can also step back and see what's going on it it does not mate up, can't do that benching it in there.
     
    la0d0g[QUOTED] and Gear Head like this.
  14. Aug 21, 2015 at 6:21 AM
    #6094
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    I will admit, benching the duals was tough. Single case is absolutely no problem.
     
  15. Aug 21, 2015 at 6:31 AM
    #6095
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    Just dropped my case last night using ye old bench press method. Cant wait to put the new one in tonight...

    And wanted to touch on what slander said about the anti-seize on the coupler to prevent fretting. DO IT. Dont drink the kool-aid that the double row bearing prevents this in the new adaptors. My cases have been together for about 18 months solid since replacing the shitty marlin bearing with the MRC, and now taking them apart tonight there is obvious wear on the splines on the input for my old case. There is the infamous rust color crap on it all too.

    There will be liberal anti seize applied when this one goes in.
     
  16. Aug 21, 2015 at 11:14 AM
    #6096
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    I had the dual row bearing and mine fretted out. The stock Tacoma input is waay too short (here comes wyatt to tell me I'm full of shit LOL) and wobbles on that coupler. I built the lefty so i can get the longer total spline input on there to minimize the wobble, and so far so good. I gooped anti seize on evrey exposed piece of metal on the tcase input and coupler that was not a bearing.
     
  17. Aug 21, 2015 at 11:26 AM
    #6097
    NwiTACO

    NwiTACO Big tars, little/no bed.

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    The input is definitely short. Way shorter than I would design. I have the total spline input on the crawlbox but cant on an FJ case.
     
  18. Aug 21, 2015 at 11:45 AM
    #6098
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    Yea that's why i ditched the chain drive. The chain drive is a sweet case, the part that sucks is that input!!

    On a lighter note, i was under my truck last night investigating why my pinion turned up and i puked a u-joint my last trip, and found my drivers side frame rail above the spring mount collapsed from rust. Looks like the back half of my trucks getting chopped and rebuilt.... Not what i want to do.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2015
  19. Aug 26, 2015 at 2:21 PM
    #6099
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    I posted in here a while back about my truck driving like absolute shit on the road... well I think I finally figured out why. Someone set the tie rod up with almost 1" of toe OUT :rolleyes: I've been told to set it to about 1/8" toe in, anyone have some input?
     
  20. Aug 26, 2015 at 4:25 PM
    #6100
    allenfab

    allenfab I hate everything

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    I literally did mine yesterday. I did 1/8" toe in and just test drove it and its handling very well now.
     
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