Added 3.5 speakers in place of stock tweeters.

About to install some Polk DB 3.5" today. I will post pics and results. Wish me luck

 

one would think so

 

Install went good. Used the old tweeter wires but found out those wires have a stock bass blocker wired in and I wanted full range for these 3.5" since i installed tweeters. So I tapped in to the 6x9 wires.
Thanks for the idea.

 

How much if any modifying needs to be done to the factory tweeter bracket

 

which would defeat the purpose of having a 2 way 6x9"

 

yup, essentially but he's almost running a 3 way technically and using the 3.5 inch as a full range if I'm not mistaken

 

technically, yes

 

No modifying. I could only use 1 oem bolt to attach. It is secure along with the pressure of the door panel. Gives me a very clean sound. Replacing the 6x9's are my next project.

 

So wait is the magnet stuck to the door? I would think this would cause problems.

 

might want to add a simple capacitor for high pass to those mids. maybe a 2.5-3.0µfd

play with the value when you get the 6x9's, caps are cheap

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross4ohm.asp

 

Yes it is. Never had problems with that issue. Sounds great.

 

10-4 Thanks for the info.

 

Can someone help me understand the stock low pass/high pass in the doors? I have some el-cheapo Boss 3-way 6x9" in the doors and Im about to pull the trigger on the OP's 3.5" Powerbass speakers for the upper location.

Is there currently a stock frequency cut on the 6x9's?
If I buy the 150hz blocker the OP recommended for the 3.5" uppers, do I need to tie into the 6x9's wiring or just use the tweeter factory wiring?

 

there is no crossover on the factory 6x9

there is a very simple 1st order [6db/octave] crossover on the upper door driver. it is simply a capacitor wired into the positive lead of the speaker.

also, the door speakers are wired in parallel to the radio. it doesn't really matter what wire pair you use.

i found another driver i may try out soon. i like the daytons but i think i can get a little more cone behind there. also these things have really low distortion numbers and measure a bit better off axis

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-3-fullrange/vifa-tc9fd18-08-3.5-full-range/

i think i can make them fit. once i recover from the holidays......

 

Thanks @SlowComa666

 

So Crutchfield recommends a much higher hz than 150 hz (in the OP's link) for the bass blockers for 3.5" speakers.

They recommend 600 hz cutoff but OP used 150 hz. Any distortion from them at that low of a blocker? Im using the stock head unit.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127BB150A2/Bass-Blockers-150-Hz-cut-off.html

 

none so far. if you go too high the image gets pulled back down to the floor because the mids are working such a narrow passband

the sole reason for me running a wideband midrange was to raise the image to near dash level.

besides, it's just a simple capacitor. they are cheap and easy enough to swap out. i tried a few and just listened to each for a few days before settling on what i run now.

 

thanks! Ordering one at 150 now.

 

whoa, they charge $10 for $3 part with some heat shrink and connectors?

i am in the wrong business

 

Bit of a noob here. Why is a capacitor required and where do you install it? Also how?