Long Travel BS Thread

I won't run it full time. I never have. And when it's on I don't haul ass.


My mid-height rack drove me nuts. Pain in the ass to get stuff out from underneath it.

 

I think anthony has 37s now lol. I have his old tc kit. I just bought new tires but im wanting to get 35s on my next set but im worried about fitment issues. Anyproblem pushing 35s on your stock rack?

 

Ah gotcha.

I liked my higher one for packing that's for sure. But I'll keep the current one for go fast

 

Well I've split two in half for other reasons..

It will feel much heavier but I'm used to it. My stock tacoma feels like a race car after driving frank a long time though. But it does fine.

I wouldn't do 37s..Jesus. I have 1.75" out of my glass fenders and stiff would rub them on full stuff. Plus 37s are just too much for our diff's IMO. 35s are pushing it as it is on everything else.

But I love having them in the trails. I tubed the fire wall too before I got long travel so idk if you'll rub there or not.

 

I would pay good money if a company like Howe would make a replacement rack for our trucks that is capable of handling 35's with offroad abuse.

 

X2

 

Wouldn't be a bad idea

 

They won't, Offroad Road Only. Had a long long conversation with them.

 

i got my OEM airbags (steering wheel/passenger) lying around what have you guys on here done with them? anyone buy them, i see there going for quite a bit of money on ebay

 

YESS!!

 

So posting this in here cuz you guys normally know little tricks.
After I lost all my brake fluid, I gave up trying to bleed them myself and had it professionally done. Well I just paid to do that like two weeks ago and now I have to disconnect the rear line to change the axle shaft. Any tricks to like plug it or something so I don't just lose all my fluid? I have a harbor freight vacuum bleeder and I'm hoping I can manage bleeding just one line as long as I don't loose all the fluid...

 

You can't unbolt the line from the axle housing and just remove the entire drum brake assembly from the offending axle? Set it aside, replace the axle, and bolt it back up?

Without looking at my truck, that sounds feasible if I remember right.

I've pulled axles out enough to swap differentials without disconnecting brakes. There's quite bit of a play in the line if you unbolt it from all of its mounts, enough you might be able to do the above.

 

I know you can swap diffs without removing.... But I thought you had to remove it to take the whole shaft/hub assembly off. I'm just replacing it with a whole donor assembly.

 

Heres a couple of pics of the roadrunner glass all mocked up and ready to be bolted on, these are a 100 times easier to mount than the fiberwerx bedsides I had previously (knock on wood, I only have the driver side done).

Can anyone post pics of the hardware and stuff you used to mount your bedsides? specifically along the inner bed area? I want it to look clean and im trying to clean up the looks on the truck. There is a gap on the inner bed area (pic below), how did you guys mount in that area? I was thinking of trying to pick up a rubber bushing of some sort??

 

You have to take the brake line off to pull the shaft. The drum backing plate is held onto the bearing pocket with pressed on studs.

 

I've used a little rubber cap slipped over the end on numerous occasions, similar to the rubber cap that slips over the brake bleed nipples.

 

Also has anyone drilled on top of the bedsides to bolt them down? With that small of a lip to bolt to the stock location I dont want to worry about not having enough room to fit a bolt without it tearing at the fiberglass eventually

 

Don't see why that wouldn't work. Just use the machined aluminum fender washers to finish it off.

 

Thats what I did. I used the fender washer kit from SDHQ.

 

Question. What do you recommend beefing up while I have it all apart? If I have the whole front and rear off I might as well reinforce things. What would be the necessities?