Want to take my new truck out on to the dunes

Ok guys I want to try some sand dune 4x4ing, if that’s even what it’s called so let the ball busting start. I got a 2015 DCSB off road back in May and am itching to try it out starting off slow. First off, I have booked marked in the manual the 4x4 LOW, locking differential, A track, downhill assist, and two other buttons (features) that I can’t think of right now sorry. I keep reading the pages over and over trying to figure out the proper applications for them. Seems like you only use 4 wheel low, and locking differential if you’re stuck. My first question is, wouldn’t I already want to have the dif locked before I went on the sand? I ask this because I’ve taken my truck on hard packed dirt roads just to turn these features on and to make sure they work. The locking differential just doesn’t LOCK UP immediately after pressing the button; you have to drive a little bit (creeping) for it to engage. This leads me to believe, how can engaging the locking differential help you out of getting stuck if you have to drive 20 feet or so? I hope you guys can understand my question with the way I worded it, sorry. The second question is, what it the general consensuses on how much air to let out of the tires before going on the sand? The posts I searched varied. Now for the last question, this is what I’m thinking. Could I just put my small pancake Porter Cable air compressor in the bed and run it off the outlet to refill the tires when I’m off the sand? I ask because I know that thing draws a lot of juice when its running. If anyone was wondering, no, I have never done anything like this before in any of my trucks. Like my previous trucks, I’ll be working my side job out of it, having said that the truck will be babied, and well taken care of. Those are my questions. Any input will be greatly appreciate, Thanks and be well, Jake.

 

I take my DCLB 4X4 Sport to the dez at least twice a year for the weekend. I have a LSD rear diff; so, I can't say for sure if you should lock your rear full time while on the sand. Three reasons I can think of as to why you should not: 1-you will burn more fuel; 2- you may forget to turn it off when you hit the pavement (causing potential damage); 3-I don't have a locking rear and I have never got stuck (but do I wish I had a locking rear diff - yes!)

Proper air-down is the key. I rarely have to even engage 4X4 when I air down.

Some factors that come into play:
Tire profile: a lower profile tire has less room to play with and, hence, can not go as low as a higher profile tire.
Load range E tires vs (standard) C rated tires: E range tires have more side wall protection and can sustain lower air pressures.
Bead lock wheels: If you had them you could go in the single digits.

So how much air pressure? I have a 265/70 R17 E-load range tire and usually set them at 15 psi. If I had C load tires, I would not go below 20psi. Opinions will differ.

Then, you have to remember to air up when you hit the pavement. I have a Q Industries air compressor. I don't know about your idea to haul your Porter compressor, unless you have a 1000 watt (or higher?) inverter. I have a Porter pancake compressor and my truck's built-in 400 watt inverter cannot handle the amp demands of the compressor. I have not researched the minimum power requirements.

Another tip I can provide is to avoid sharp turns in the sand. Even when backing up it's best to do a 3 or 5-point turn than a sharp single turn. You especially don't want to make a sharp turn at a high speed with air-downed tires as you risk separating the tire from the wheel.

Don't forget to carry a couple of recovery straps (not a tow strap) in case you do get stuck, or to help someone else.

 

Chug, thank you for your time replying to my questions I learned a couple of things from my questions but I also learned a few things that I didn't ask is: making turns and losing the tire bead, and about having straps handy. Sorry to ask another question regarding your tire pressure answer. Do you mean the actual tire pressure is 15lb's or is it do you minus 15lbs from the tire?

 

15 lbs total pressure for my size tires and load range. There are formulas out there that take into account weight of vehicle and tire size, but 15 has been good # for me.

Here is a partial list of things I think you should have in/on your truck when hitting the sand, or as an everyday drive:
Recovery straps. I mentioned these already, but carry two. I have a 2" x 20 ft and a 3" x 30 ft.
D-rings. These connect the recovery straps to the car frame. Get at least two 3/4" D rings. I also have a 7/8 size, just in case.
Tow receiver hook.** If you have a hitch, these are very useful for connecting recovery straps. My fav:

$59 Tow Ready 63044 Receiver Mount Tow Hook

Tow Ready 63044.
Shovel. Any type you can fit in your truck. For those rare occasions when you do get stuck.
Distilled water. A gallon or two in case you bust a hose.
Duct tape. Gorilla duct tape is pretty strong.
Tool kit. I have a Tekton 11601 set. It's a 3/8 drive set with metric sockets that can remove just about any component - radiator, alternator,
starter, etc... Also get an assortment of wrenches, pliers, screwdriver set, and a beaker bar.
Gas. This is optional but think about getting a good gas can if you venture out into the distance.
Hi-Lift. Another option but good to have if you are solo and get stuck.

** A note about connecting a tow/recovery strap to the front end of your Taco - DONT DO IT! The 4X4 and PreRunners have a subframe welded to the front end - it's roughly a 4 to 6-inch drop. This subframe has holes to bolt in tow hooks. And it's very tempting to wrap a recovery strap there because it is easily accessible. However, with enough tugging, this subframe can bend, or be torn off completely. Whenever possible, pull or get pulled from the hitch or a point on the rear frame. I have used the front to pull out small cars stuck in the sand, but these small cars require minimal assistance.

 

Chuy, first off THANK YOU very much for taking the time for that nice write up. I'll be going over it the next few days so I can gather up all the items> like in my original post I do, and plan on babying this truck, just like I've taken care of all my previous trucks. Right now I'm getting ready to drive two and a half hours up to Vermont for a bagpipe band completion that my band will be competing in. A nice long ride with my new truck. Thanks again and be well, Jake.

 

It would be very cool to post a pic of your bagpipe band serenading your Taco!

 

I just found a neat little recovery kit from Smittybilt on Amazon:

Smittybilt Recovery Strap, Black D-Ring, and Receivers Bundle

http://smile.amazon.com/Smittybilt-...0KHCCABS/ref=pba_ru_B00KHCCABS_B001CF1A6U_124
3" x 30' 30,000lb Recovery Strap + 2" Hitch Receiver 3/4" D-Ring + additional 3/4" D-Ring = $83.00

 

Glad I read this thread. I know there's an anchor loop under the front end. Didn't realize it was such a weak point. I'm in need of slowly building up my own recovery kit, road hazard kit at some point too!

 

I was looking at the subframe today while replacing a ball joint. It's more of a 4-inch drop and is welded to the frame by rather thin square plates right in front of the frame crush zones. There are two brackets that connect this subframe to a beefy cross-frame on which lower control arms are attached. If you can find a way to bolt a hook to one of the brackets, you may be alright towing from the front end. There these brackets are odd looking. The bolts are recessed about two inches and putting a hook on them is going to affect ground clearance. Both brackets are odd this way. Plus, you'd have to remove any skid plates to access the brackets.

That's a nice starter's kit, but if you price the items individually, you'll see you save less than a buck. But, a buck is a buck, right?

 

On my Tacoma, there are two metal loops under the bumper on both driver and passenger sides. Is it safe to secure a strap on those loops?

 

Chuy is correct. Do not use the tow hooks on the front of the Tacoma. That is just to tie down the truck while transporting it. Not used for recovery. I've never seen the consequences of using it but I wouldn't want to be the first to find out. If you ever need to recover use the rear hitch with d-ring shackle combo as well as recovery strap like the ones Kyitty recommended. I've taken my Tacoma out to Pismo a few times this year and I'm glad to say that I haven't had the need to use my recovery tools yet. I'm sure I will one of these days but I just like to make smart decisions, know what your rig is capable of and most importantly what you are capable of while out on the beach/dunes. I usually lower my tire pressure to 15-18 PSI and engage my 4x4 High. Once in a while I'll throw it on 4x4 Low when it needs to be. Don't remember having to use my A-Trac or E.Rear Diffs but they are handy. You paid extra money on your truck to have those features so put them to use! If all else fails then I'd say use your recovery tools. Just remember to use dampeners on each ends of your recovery strap and you should be good. Aside from all that just enjoy yourself.

 

My 07 Taco does not have those two loops; it don't have any loops. I added tow hooks at the corners where straps would hold down the truck during freight transport. Look underneath your truck and see how the front crossmember is connected to the frame. Chances are it's going to be connected like my 07. It's a rather light duty crossmember welded to the front ends of the frame and sits about four inches below the frame. The main crossmember is about three feet back and is connected to the lower control arms. The light duty brace has been known to bend or break off during hard towing. It's fine for light duty towing but I would not use a recovery strap to pull out anyone, or ask to be pulled out from the front end.

This pic shows part of the that sub frame at the top of the pic. It's not my truck; it's a pic I found online. That hook with two bolts is one I replaced with a tow hook. That brace above it, with the big round hole, connects the crossmember to the frame.



This pic has a tow hook like yours. The brace right below it connects the weak front crossmember to the sturdier crossmember. Pic is at an angle; I can't tell if it sits right above that brace. If it is, you might be okay towing heavier loads from that tow point.

 

I have one of each type of bracket and have abused both of them. I trust the squarish shaped one far more than the round stock tie down point, but neither has moved pulling logs out of the woods or stuck vehicles from snow. Just my $.02

 

I wish florida had dunes.. id love to go screw around on them. Sand>mud. Chuy, have you ever eaten at chuys mexican ? Best texmex ive ever eaten.

 

Chuy I'll see what I can do about getting a group photo of us playing next to the truck.Thats me in the middle. That's us after we took first third time in a row. We're now at 5 1st place wins this season.

 

I learned something as well.

I attempted to use the front hook a few weeks ago without knowing that. Luckily the recovery vehicle got stuck trying to pull me out from the front so we had to dig it out and try from the rear(with success).

 

I hate mud, but love sand although sand can be irritating at times since it gets EVERYWHERE. When installing door speakers along with sound deadening recently I found piles of sand on the inside of my doors.

 

Yea i getcha there, we have plenty of sand in florida, its just not in giant fun piles :/.. except for the beach dunes which are illegal to walk on let alone drive on.

 

I can definitely see the weak point on the tow hook, but if that whole sub frame is so weak, then what are the guys mounting the winches too?

 

Winches are mounted on after market bumpers that connect to the frame at multiple points.

Nice pic Jake1530.