BamaToy's Garage and Diagnostic Center.

It takes some work, but not that difficult. There is a procedure I believe on the forums that someone posted. I would suggest a quick search.

I would not suggest using any type of spliced wire for this. ABS sensors cables are very sensitive. You can check with Rockauto.com to see if they have the harness available. They do sell many OEM parts there. But no, I would never suggest slicing a repair on the ABS wires as they are typically a shielded and twisted pair to prevent unwanted signals.

 

Need some help and/or ideas here if you have some. Thanks https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/95-2-7l-p0125-need-help-fast.388758/

 

Posted a reply there.

 

Year:2003
Make:Tacoma
Model: extended cab DXL 4x4
Engine size: 2.7

Is a lift installed: OME 2882 2.5"
Aftermarket components: OME 2882, complete front end rebuild, new general rear springs with an extra leaf added, rear proportion valve arm extended bracket
Is there an alarm system installed: no
When did you first notice the problem? After I replaced the rear wheel bearings and new seals inner and outer
How often does it occur?: ABS motor growls when you stay on the brakes for an extended period
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: Inner axle seal three times and new diffential vent
Have you checked codes?: No codes or ABS light on

I have packed the back of the seal in the spring area with wheel bearing grease each time I install a new seal. I installed the outer seal in the bearing cup end first. Then pressed the new bearing on until it downed out all the way. Then I pressed a new locking ring on, installed the clip. Then I pressed the old ABS ring on to the correct measurement per the axle housing. Then finally one last locking ring against that. I had triple checked my measurements and axle. Measurements check out correctly and I find nothing wrong with the axle. I installed a new vent hose and cap from Marlin Craweler. I was building diffential pressure, so I removed the cap on the vent and removed the rubber biscuit and reinstalled the cap. I blew air other the fittings, hose and, cap to check for blockage. Vents find. But for some reason I have gear oil in a small amount getting in the dry area of my ABS sensor. Once the oil gets on the sensor the ABS motor goes to growling when on the brakes for any length of period. This is only happening on the passenger side. Pull the ABS sensor on the right side and it's dry. I've had the new local Toyota dealership look at it, that was a complete waste. Next I had a friend who is a GM certified tech install the last seal and double check all my work. He couldn't find anything that would cause this. I have finally pulled the fuse on the ABS2 relay just to stop the growling and releasing of brakes. I'm out of ideas and patients. I know it is almost impossible to pen point my problem over the Internet but, thought he might have a few ideas to change. Thank you for any help you may can give.

 

Damn, sorry for the book I wrote. Just wanted to explain it all in detail. Once again thank you for any help

 

There can never be too MUCH information given with a car or truck problem. Many times there is too LITTLE.

This sounds like it may be a small bit of work to diagnose. When you say you pressed on the reluctor wheel for the ABS, did you inspect it to be sure that it had no cracks or chips on the ring itself? You would need to inspect each tooth to see. What is strange is that you say the ABS sensor is dry, but there is a small amount of oil getting to the reluctor ring. That is puzzling.

Your axle shaft should look like this: (Photo copied from TW source)



Is this what yours looked like?

 

Exactly like that. Yes it was brand new locking rings. Gear oil is getting on the ABS sensor. Either I'm still building pressure inside the diff and forcing oil or I been getting bad seals. The seals I have been installing are national seals

 

Left side ABS sensor is dry. Right side is getting gear oil and giving me hell

 

Usually just a bunch of gear oil shouldn't affect the sensor, since it uses a magnetic field and oil won't affect it. I am curious if there is a different underlying problem here. Have to removed the sensor itself and used a flashlight to peek into the opening and look at the reluctor? Just to see if it is indeed centered in the opening when all is assembled?

 

Yes sir and it was. I even bought new sensors and tried them thinking I might have broken a sensor

 

Have you checked the wiring from where the sensor plugs in, to where it enters the body harness? Possible damaged wiring? I am just saying all of the things that I would check as I get answers...lol

 

I checked all the plugs and took a meter and checked the continuity. I checked the front for any metal shavings

 

Hey I answer if I know or go check and then answer. I just need an other mind to help me figure it out. I appreciate all your help and hints

 

Hi Bama:
I bought my Tacoma new:
2005 4X4 SR 5 extended cab
4 cylinder engine/ manual 5 speed transmission
stock tire size
about 85,000 miles
added Bilstein shocks, Amsoil in everything, extra leaf springs as I sometimes tow a lot of weight, and a Scan Gauge which shows no problem codes (has no alarm system). I'm 63, and drive some on very rough mountain roads, but always drive slowly. I've had no mechanical problems, only replacing oil/filters/tires.
MY PROBLEM is shifting into or out of 4 low, and it does this 100% of the time. This started 2 years and 14,000 miles ago.
I'm able to shift it into and out of 4WD high with no problems and the typical 4 HI warning light works fine. But to reliably get it into or out of low range (winter or summer), I now must shut off the engine, restart it, and it then goes into or out of low range instantly with no problems. Also, the 4 WD low range warning light flashes constantly, it never simply stays on even though I know that the truck is working as it should in low range. I've tried everything that has been recommended here as well as doing what the manual states. When I want to take it out of low range, once again I shut it off, restart, and it then easily comes out of low range & the 4 low warning light goes out. If I mess with it long enough, driving back and forth before stopping & moving selector knob, moving the selector knob 20 or more times, holding my mouth correctly, etc, I can get it to go into or out of 4 low without shutting the engine off, but the 4 low light still flashes when it's in 4 low. I've always "exercised" the 4 WD every couple of months for a few minutes, just to keep it working, and actually use 4 low about 20 times per year.
If you were 1200 miles closer to me I'd bring it to you.
THANK YOU for any thoughts you may have about this!

 

A Flashing light such as that with normal engagement of 4WD LO is typically an indication of an electrical problem. The light will flash if the control ECU does not receive the appropriate signals and input from the switches. Many times the transfer case will engage in LO, but the front differential does not lock. Also a possibility is a bad switch in the transfer case that is not telling the 4X4 ECU that it is in LO, so the computer will flash the light. With the erractic operation requiring you to shut off and restart the truck leads me to believe that you either have a front diff engagement issue, or a switch problem.

 

Alright I'm stumped.
Year: 2003
Make: Toyota
Model: Tacoma was a pre runner has been a 4x4 for over a year
Engine size: 3.4

On top of this basic information it would be VERY helpful to include:

Is a lift installed: Yes
Aftermarket components: in relation to the front, Icon Coilovers, camburg UCA, steering rack bushings replaces about 2 years ago
Is there an alarm system installed: yes
When did you first notice the problem?: 2 weeks after new gears installed, and wheeling trip in small rock terrain
How often does it occur?: when turning the wheel 95% of the time, when stopped and when moving, only when the truck is on the ground not jacked up
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: I have checked the sway bar tightness, that was an old issue. checked brake caliper tightness, checked lug nuts, visually inspected steering rack to make sure it wasn't moving
Have you checked codes?: no

 

OK. Got all the truck information. What is actually occurring that you are trying to figure out?

 

haha oh yea that would be important. I have weird knock when turning the wheel in either direction, its under the truck not the steering column. i can't feel any play in the front wheel when moving by hand

 

Check your upper and lower ball joints. Have someone turn the steering back and forth and place your hand on the control arm (upper and lower) to feel for the pop. If nothing there then check your tie rod ends at the steering knuckle, and the rack itself.

 

Thank you Bama. I'll check those two things. It'll be a few days.