Alaska BS thread

heh.

 

@benbacher whats the damage for a new power steering pump installed?

 

Power steering is over rated...

 

what makes you think it's the pump? just curious....

 

Maybe cuz it whines like a mofo and has annoyed me for months. The whining corresponds to the vibrations if you feel it as well. I already bought a reman from Napa but not exactly sure how to take this old one off. The belt is either a little too small or something else is too tight.

Has anyone replaced a power steering pump that could lend some advice?

 

Buy sum fluid pretty sure you'll lose sum taking the hoses off, if u have access to flare nut wrenches that'd be better than regular wrenches as the nuts on the hose fitting can get marred up. Maybe get another belt since your already take it off

 

Bought 2 quarts of fluid already...
So far the nuts except for the one holding the pulley have broken loose just fine with a cheater bar... Maybe I'll just say screw it and cut this belt off.

 

Is your truck a taco or a truck Kyle? I can't remember

 

Taco! I already have the new pump Ben, just need labor quote.

 

PER AZ Website.

1. On some models it will be necessary to remove the air cleaner.
2. Disconnect the high tension lines at the distributor, then disconnect the air lines at the air valve.
3. With a suitable device, suck some fluid out of the reservoir tank.
4. Disconnect the return hose at the power steering pump.
5. Separate the pressure line at the pump. Some models have a union bolt with gaskets. Discard the old gaskets.
6. Loosen the drive belt pulley retaining nut. Loosen the idler pulley and adjusting bolt and remove the drive belt.
7. Remove the drive pulley and Woodruff key.
8. Remove the power steering pump. Some models have an O-ring, discard the old O-ring.

To install:

1. On the O-ring type, coat the O-ring with power steering fluid, then install it to the pump assembly.
2. Install the pump in its bracket, then tighten the nuts to 27-29 ft. lbs. (36-39 Nm).
3. Install the drive pulley and belt. Tighten the pulley bolt to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm) and check the drive belt tension.
4. Attach the pressure line to the pump; tighten the flare nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm), and the union bolt with new gaskets to 42 ft. lbs. (56 Nm).
5. Connect the return hose.
6. Connect the air hoses and the high tension leads.
7. If removed, install the air cleaner.
8. Fill the reservoir with fluid, bleed the system and check for leaks.

BLEEDING


WARNING
Vehicles equipped with Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) brakes use a different bleeding procedure than those not so equipped. Bleeding the RWAL system requires the use of an electronic brake tester, an expensive unit usually found only at dealers.Without RWAL System

1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir. It should be at the correct level (HOT or COLD) depending on engine temperature.
2. Start the engine and run it below 1000 rpm.
3. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock 3 or 4 times.
4. Shut the engine OFF . Connect a clear plastic tube to the bleeder port on the steering gearbox. Place the other end of the tube in a container of power steering fluid. Make sure the end is immersed in the fluid.
5. Start the engine again. Turn the wheel lock-to-lock 3-4 times and return the steering wheel to the centered position.
6. Loosen the bleeder plug. Observe the tubing; when no air bubbles are seen, close the bleeder plug.

CAUTION
Do not allow the tubing to come off the bleed port. The power steering fluid is under high pressure and may be very hot.

1. Inspect the fluid level with the engine running; the fluid should not be foamy or cloudy. Shut the engine OFF and check the fluid level. If level rises too much, try re-bleeding the system. If the problem persists, repair the power steering system.

With RWAL System
The RWAL system uses power steering fluid pressure to maintain control pressures in the brake system. While the fluids never mix, air in the power steering system can render the rear anti-lock brakes ineffective.
If the any of the lines or components in the power steering system are loosened or removed, the brake system must be bled as well. Preliminary bleeding of both the power steering and brake systems will eliminate most of the air, but the vehicle MUST be taken to a dealer to have the systems properly bled using the Toyota ABS Checker. Be warned that until this is done, the rear wheel anti-lock brake function may be impaired.

 

Ugh no kidding. My truck sounds terrible. It's almost embarrassing how loud they are.

 

Mine don't squeak. My poly UCA bushings squeak though :/

 

If anyone's looking for some 10" stroke rear shocks shoot me a PM.

GF got mis shipped a second set from wheelers without being charged and when she called wheelers they said they never got charged either so she got to keep them.

So you can save yourself some shipping costs

 

Stroke rear shocks?

 

Yes.. They have a 10" stroke. And are rear shocks haha

 

Thought that sad the brand or something haha. What are they? 1st gen?

 

Can be used on first gen or any setup with aftermarket shock mounts. They have a bushing on both ends so they wouldn't work with the second gen stick mounts as they have a stem top mount.

 

What brand are they?

 

Bilstein 5125's

 

Hmm... Those would work better for my rear suspension than my nitrochargers... But I'm currently broke now, how much you want?

If anyone else is looking at 'em they are 15.91" compressed to 25.93" extended according to MarlinCrawler