Sound deadening, speaker upgrading

Just posting my recent audio upgrade. I used FatMat throughout the entire vehicle and an extra layer of butyl in the doors and select areas around the floor. I've never deadened a vehicle before so this is all new to me. The sound improvement and the drop in road noise is absolutely amazing with the FatMat and butyl. I haven't purchased a subwoofer or amplifier in well over a decade. I just decided that I wanted a quality stereo in a truck that I love.

 

Looks good. I am about to do the same. I put a system in my sons extended cab Tacoma and after listening to it a couple of times. I was like what don't I have one. Lol

 

As you can see, the stock speakers are pathetic and desperately need to be replaced. After replacing my head unit and getting an increase in sound quality I got the itch for...MORE sound quality.

 

Got the passenger doors finished last night.

 

How did those TR690 and TR650 fit and sound once you got the door panels back on?

Which adapters are those?

I'm looking into doing the same with my 2013 DC

 

They are the metra adapters and they fit perfectly. I used them with the speaker adapters which also fit perfectly. I was amazed how well everything came together. I highly suggest doing some sound deadening if you're going to have the door panel off replacing speakers. The end result will be as good as it can possibly get from a simple speaker upgrade.

I'm currently powering them from my head unit until my amp arrives, but they sound great.

 

Did you get them from Crutchfield?

Forum Audio Man 'Mr Marv' said that the door panel would have to be fitted to the C2-690TX's Tweeter Tower so it would barely clear the door panel and that the C2-690TX was probably the limit for the height of speaker used in the front door. According to Crutchfield's website the top mount depth between the TR690 and the C2-690TX is only 1/8 inch difference; of course they don't give you tower height, but it doesn't say either one will fit my application.

 

I got them on Amazon. I didn't run into any fitment issues. Everything worked out great.

 

Thanks. I'm really frustrating myself trying to choose the right door speakers. It's a toss up between JBL GX-series, JL Audio C2 series, MB Quart X-Line, or Hybrid Audio Mirus / Imagine series.

I'm having Mr. Marv build a custom enclosure to go behind the passenger rear seat to hold a JL Audio 10TW3-D4 sub. The enclosure will not disturb any bracketry or tethers, but the passenger side of the storage bin will have to be completely removed.

 

The tethers were a problem for me. I didn't have to remove them, but they can't be used with the box installed. I have to mount new tethers up higher. Not what I wanted to do, but oh well.

 

I don't need to use the tethers. I just didn't want to permanently remove them from the truck.

 

Started building my underseat enclosure. I decided to build a full fiberglass enclosure using the plastic tray as a mold. It's actually easier than I thought it would be.

 

You should have done the outside, There isn't much air space in general and using the inside you killed a rather large portion of what is available

 

My speakers require .23ft of air space. I think I'll be fine. That extra space you think I lost is occupied by FatMat anyways.

 

How is fat mat? Pricey? Easy to install?

I want to put sound deadened in my truck. Especially above the headboard. My roof rack is noisy.

 

How many square feet of FatMat are needed to cover front and rear doors?

 

If your looking for a Deadener that does it well, Super easy to work with ( especially for the roof) take a look at my group buy. Read some of the feedback especially on page 10 and feel free to contact the customers on their experience, their results and ease of installation VS some of the other brands
www.tacomaworld.com/threads/shok-sound-deadener-group-buy-4.362264/page-10#post-10638631

With the shok deadener(40 Sq feet), its $125 Shipped currently on a gb pricing

 

40sq ft will go a long ways. I did my entire double cab(floor, back wall, roof and all 4 doors)using it like I stole it and I had quite a bit left over out of 150sq ft.
I have no experience with any other deadener, but it seemed pretty easy to work with. The hardest part is stripping the interior and putting it all back afterwards.

 

Did you mat the roof?
If so how bad of a pain in the ass is it?
I've done all 4 doors and rear of the cab. I wanna do the roof but kinda leary. If you kno what I mean

 

The roof seems the easiest! Nice and flat for the most part!