Fully polished TuRD

Got the adapter from inchworm and I built it myself.

 

Started the tear down of the fj80. Wanna come cut all this shit off for me?

 

Do you have any pictures of the process? Or can you recommend any resources? Did you have to re-size your drive shafts? I saw the complete unit on Low Range Offroad. They say it doesn't require drive shaft modification.

 

Let me see what I have. As for the driveshafts, I installed a crawler with a mini truck adapter so I had to modify them a bit anyway.

Overall its pretty easy if you take your time and have access to a press. The Toyota gear drive cases are stupid easy to assemble and work on and the lefty isn't much different. Lowrange started making them again?

 

Yeah, Lowrange has this... well it's by inchworm. http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/yota...tytm-left-hand-drop-geared-transfer-case.html

What housing did you use with the lefty?

 

I used the AA low range gear housing. I have mixed feelings about it. Its thick for sure but brittle feeling compared to the stock Toyota housing.

 

Hey man when you stripped your rear axle did you pull the drum brakes and backing plate off the axle flange too? I can't get mine off. It looks like it's hanging on the ABS sensor. I removed the bolt holding the sensor on the backing plate but it's not moving. Any tips?

 

I unbolted them and smacked them with a hammer and they popped off.

Link to my axle build thread on Ttora:

 

Yeah I smacked them from the front side and they didn't budge. I guess it doesn't matter if I mess up the sensor since I won't be using abs anyways

 

I don't remember the sensor being a problem, however that was a while ago.

 

Hey Slander---
Did you ever think about flipping that front FJ60 axle? It converts you to a lefty so you can keep using what you have for your transfercase config.
Only extra work is you break loose the front cover and rotate it 180 and weld back on. It took me 30 minutes to break the cover welds with an angle grinder and 4 inch cutting wheel.....wonder if a plasma would have been easier? I say "only extra work" because I figure you still have to break the perches and knuckles loose to get them dialed in anyways.
I'm pretty much done and completed with mine. Here is page 9 of my SAS build and the testing I did by driving it from AZ to NY http://www.yotatech.com/f152/2001-t...onsiderations-283930/index9.html#post52284454

The frontal shackle is NOT going away on my rig. I really like it.
I did it back in 2001 on my 1992 standard cab Toyota Pick-up(D44 sas) and did NOT do it right I might add but it still worked ok for me. I used what I had on hand and all I had was a set of 44044 wagoneer leafpacks and the non-military wrap end had to be used for the rearward fixed mount and that can easily lead to a bent main. That issue goes away with a military wrap on the rear half....coupled with a long leaf close-clamped as close as possible to that same wrap.


Here's mine showing the double military wrap....and a 3rd leaf that is long and close to the end but not clamped yet at the very end.




Here's the front shackle...still using the stock oem shackle. These are 5" lift Allpro packs so it should be interesting if I need to go to a slightly longer shackle or not. Heavily arched springs tend to cause large swings in the shackle motion.




I cut that nasty dust deflector off so now the rotors are 100% visible.



Showing how the front 3rd is pointed right at the transfercase by rotating the knuckles and still maintaining about 4 degrees castor.
Also shows my dirt cheap fix for the cross-member clearance is with the DS.





Ha! Drain plug was converted to a fill plug

 

Good stuff ZUK! I go back and forth on flipping the axle and have read your build thread a few times! I want to keep the lefty because it way beefier than a stock Toyota gear drive and its already clocked. I am worried about flipping the front axle and warping it, then again that's a problem anytime you weld on these axles. I also have a 60 rear axle I was thinking about swapping the knuckle balls onto from the front that I have. I need to dig around the internet to find some tips on how to get this to work

 

There's a mini truck front axle on CL for $300, I'm thinking of grabbing it and doing the flip you're talking about @ZUK

 

I don't think an 8" r&p would survive very well under a first gen. I've seen a build with one but he's only on 33's

 

@akamrkent @Gear Head Snowys running one on a 1st gen on 37s, a friend of mine is running one under a 3rd gen 3.4 4runner on 37s and norcalpr on Ttora is running one on his and he's on 35s. I would not worry about it if you know how to drive with one.

The part that sucks is the mini truck axle is NARROW, I would look for an fj 60/62 axle if I were you. Its wider, has a bigger diff, uses mini truck outers and you can probibly snag one cheaper than a mini truck axle.



On a side note, I was looking at the truck today and saw a rust spot on the drivers side outer section of the frame. I smacked it with a hammer and put a hole in the frame. Pos truck. Why does my 1944 Willy's jeep thats 71yrs old have less rust issues than my damn 13yr old toyota?!?!

 

Yeah, I saw a fj80 axle from a 96 about a month ago, $500... I'm kind of regretting not jumping on it. I'm just going to keeping a look out for one.

 

Fj80 is still an 8" but it a high pinion. My buddy runs 42's on his. Steering is complicated on them since its behind the axle but you can get s set of hellfire knuckles to run regular high steer. They are pricey though

 

8" ring gear will survive fine on a first gen, as long as you stay less than a 37" tire and don't wheel like a dumb ass.

fj80 steering issues can be solved in two ways, hell fire knuckles, or a rhd arm that sets the tie rod about in the middle of the axle, Ive thrown around the idea of running an aluminum tie rod like many of the new jks do.

 

The poblem with aluminum tie rods is you can pull the threads out which would bring the suck.

Behind the axle steering would be kind of cool if you can get it to fit.

 

A guy I wheel with is running single ended full hydro behind the axle on the stock steering arms. It's pretty slick and seems to work well for him