E locker swap write up (easy way!)

Whats up guys I successfully swapped over my elocker axle over and thought I would make a write up on it because I couldn't find many write ups on the swap!

In my opinion first thing I did was take the bed off its 6 bolts and need a couple peoples help to lift it off and its off and you have all the room in the world after that. You can ever pressure wash everything with it off like I did

Unbolt everything off your STOCK axle Take the shocks off. Take the main brake line out. unbolt the portioning valve arm. and finally unhook the Ebrake and unhook the cable from the back plates. take the 4 through bolts off the drive shaft connecting to the 3rd member. drop the axle.

Go ahead and bolt up the New elocker axle everything reversal of what was stated above. just dont worry about the ebrake because it wont fit anymore ill add to that later!

like dis







Wiring:

I went to lowes and bought 5 25foot 14awg packs all different colors this was over kill but will help later down the road if i have a problem.

making the wiring harness is easy this is how I did it. pictures below

So what I did was tie the 5 wires to a spicket.... lol



stretch it wires out and cut it even. Then grab a drill and put the 5 wires in the chuck of the drill. then spin it. get it tight nut now so tight it breaks... lol



now wrap both ends with some electrical tape to hold it from unspinning and take it out of the chuck.

take the harness and tie it to something like a clothes line and wrap it with electrical tape, wiring loom or something. I did electrical tape TOOK FOREVER...



now thats done you can start splicing it to the OEM short harness that plugs into the third member

like dis



leave the 2 white/black wires alone they are grounds that ground to the chassis.



This was mine

RED to GREEN/RED
BLUE to BLUE/YELLOW
GREEN to GREEN
WHITE to GREEN/BLACK
YELLOW to GREEN/YELLOW

BOTH BLACK/WHITE GROUND TO CHASSIS!!!!!

(The colors on the right are oem from a standard pinion axle)

Okay now run the wiring harness down the frame I went the route of the brake light wiring harness and went up through the cab right next to the driver door and seat



Then into the dash.

run a positive lead from the battery and fuse it.

okay the switch
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyota-e-locker-switches.html

spend the money its worth every penny!

here is the switch diagram with oem colors its as easy as that!





EDIT: forgot about the ebrake replace the ebrake from the cab to the axle prt#46420-35740 comes with all the factory brakets for about 80 bucks. (make sure that your original doesnt fit before you buy it...)

thank you hope it helps
My first write up!

WARNING! Match the gearing of the new rear end to the front diff! VERY IMPORTANT note: if you have the same as the front you are good!

 

Very impressive. I plan on doing this eventually.

Thanks for the write up,

_Charlie

 

Nicely done, Good write up. Would this be the same for 2nd Gen.?

 

Thanks you!

 

not sure im sure the wiring is pretty close.

 

The only thing you didn't mention in the swap was matching the gears with the front diff. If you need regearing, that is probably the hardest and most expensive part.

 

yes! thanks totally forgot

 

Off topic but OP, is that a paranoid switch plate? Were you not able to get it aligned without that gap on the left side?? I ask because I'm bout to install one myself.

 

I didn't have a gap?

 

Oh I'm sorry, it totally looks like it, there on the lower left. One other question, to pull the hvac face plate, does the a/c button need to be pulled out or does the face plate just pop off and button stays in place? My '00 has a lil different control panel but the a/c button would be same.

 

You gotta get a screw driver and carefully pry it out the a/c button is a plug of its own it's like 2 inches deep into the face plate. Hard to explain

 

That's weird your ebrake wouldn't work, I did this same swap and no issues using my ebrake cable on the new axle.
I did end up having my non trd backing plates pressed onto the elocker axles though because they were rust free.

 

Yeah I have a 97 and they run above the axle the newer 1st Gena run across the pumpkin

 

Great write up, thank you! Just swapped a 410 trd locker in yesterday and need to wire it soon. Killer deal 400$!!! I have the stock wiring from the locker that would tie into the chassis wiring harness. Do you know where the male connector is available?

Thanks!

 

McMaster-Carr sells almost every type of conductor you might need. Instead of making your own and covering them in electrical tape you can buy 18-7 or 18-5 conductors by the foot. I used 18-7 and added a relay so I could use the factory RR DIFF LOCK switch and dash light.

 

Huh, so you do need a relay? Is this so the accuator doesn't get constant power? Shuts off after engaged?

Heres the wiring diagram I'm looking at:

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/e-locker-wiring-help-please-247763/

 

That is my writeup. The DPDT relay is to reverse the polarity.

 

Sweet, thank you for your help! got all my supplies, wiring this weekend

 

Protip; Don't buy individual wiring strands and twist them together. instead just buy a trailer wiring harness. It'll be cleaner, cheaper, more available, and easier to run.

EDIT: link below to similar kit.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Hopkins-T...fault&beacon_version=1.0.1&findingMethod=p13n

 

Yea, I grabbed scrap 10 conductor (18 gauge) from the shop I work at. Very cheap ha ha ha