Timing chain cover bolt diagram

Does anybody have a diagram of the V6 timing chain cover that shows in which hole each bolt goes? There are something like, I believe 19 bolts of 4-5 different types. I have them all but I did not document which hole each came from. A detailed diagram specifying bolt sizes would greatly save me the pain of trial and error.

Thanks

 

TIMING CHAIN OR BELT COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY (for 1GR-FE)

Install the timing chain cover with the 15 bolts and 2 nuts. Tighten the bolts and nuts uniformly in several steps.






Torque 23 Nm (235 kgf-cm, 17 ft-lbf)
Each bolt length is as follows:

 

Thanks, @Drivesector -- this is better than could I ever have hoped for

Are both the short and long bolts the same torque spec ? Also, for the two nuts, they go onto "set" bolts (or whatever you call them) that are put in using an inverse torx bit (so they look like a stud protruding from the engine block) -- do you know if their torque is the same ?

 

The torque is The same for everything.

 

one more semi-related question. do you know if it's better to put the crankshaft oil seal on the cover before hanging the cover or after ? i am inclined to think after

 

1GR-FE ENGINE MECHANICAL: FRONT CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL: INSTALLATION

1. INSTALL TIMING GEAR CASE OR TIMING CHAIN CASE OIL SEAL

(a) Apply MP grease to a new oil seal lip.
(b) Using SST and a hammer, tap in the oil seal until its surface is flush with the timing chain cover edge.
SST : 09226-10010

1. INSTALL CRANKSHAFT PULLEY See: Timing Chain\Service and Repair\Installation
2. INSTALL FAN SHROUD See: Cooling System\Radiator\Service and Repair\Removal and Replacement\Installation
3. INSTALL RADIATOR SUPPORT TO FRAME SEAL LH
4. CONNECT CABLE TO NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL

Torque : 3.9 Nm (40 kgf-cm, 35 in-lbf)

1. CHECK FOR ENGINE OIL LEAKAGE
2. INSTALL ENGINE UNDER COVER SUB-ASSEMBLY (for 4WD and Pre Runner Drive Type)

(a) Install the engine under cover with the 4 bolts.
Torque : 29 Nm (296 kgf-cm, 21 ft-lbf)

1. INSTALL V-BANK COVER

(a) Install the V-bank cover with the 2 nuts.
Torque : 7.5 Nm (76 kgf-cm, 66 in-lbf)

 

in the absence of a SST, is there an alternative workaround ? like for example using a nail set or some such tool that concentrates force in a small area

 

Thanks for this write up! Mine is starting to seep a little as well at 125K. Dealer wants $1100-$1200 to do this. The service rep said it's quoted at 11 hours labor!

 

what is seeping, the time chain cover ? unless you have to take the cylinder heads off, i would say that is too much.

 

Yeah, timing chain cover right where the block and head meet on the passenger side. They pointed it out when they were replacing my frame two weeks ago. I will keep an eye on it to see if it gets any worse.

 

I can't see how that amounts to 11 hrs of work because it doesn't involve taking the chain off or cylinder heads. Now if it's leaking because the block is warped (vs. just the cover) that will end up costing a lot more. If only the gasket maker (the cover doesn't use a fixed gasket, only caulk-llike maker that you apply) went bad and that's why it leaks, that's easy. It could also be that the cover is bad and leaking (not likely) but a new cover is around $500.

Taking the cover off is a little pain because you have to take the whole drive belt system off, meaning the power steering pump, AC pump, etc. but those are all low profile jobs well within the DIY domain. if you have to take the chain and/or the heads (which also means the chain), that adds complexity and $$

 

I thought 11 hrs sounded a bit much as well. I will more than likely do it myself. Is it easier to do it by pulling the radiator out?

 

No, you shouldn't pull the radiator out. It is very thin and won't get in the way any. You will have to take off the fan. Also, don't take the water pump off the cover (unless it or the gasket need replacement)

 

Thanks in advance for the helpful info. The wealth of knowledge and info on TW is awesome!

 

Leave it alone unless you are loosing so much oil that it's requiring you to put a quart or more back in it between changes. Consider it rust prevention. Many have this problem. Very few have done anything about it. I have this issue and have ever had to put oil in between changes. Going on 11 years and 115 k miles.

 

Sounds like a recurring issue. Do we know what's causing it or is it a crapchute ?

 

From what I understand the factory used a type of liquid gasket and the fix is an actual physical gasket. In any case I wouldn't loose any sleep over tearing down your rig to fix it. It may get to the point that it needs fixing but mine has not yet.

 

i was going to put gasket maker on mine. i wasn't aware there was such a thing as aftermarket 'physical gasket' that can be put in there.

 

Hey @Drivesector , your diagram does not include the 4 bolts that connect the timechain cover to the oil pan