Tire/Lift Question on 2015 Leased Tacoma

But you're right it's not incredibly smart, but I'm 21 and make over six figures in 5 months of work so I can take a hit here and there. Sounds arrogant but it is what it is.

 

A $400 lift is going to ride like absolute shit. Just FYI. I'm guessing you are going with spacers? Which will either:

A) Sit on top of the strut and potentially cause the shock to bottom out. If the shock bottoms out hard enough...



B) Or your spacer lift will be an in coil spacer, which will over compress the stock springs to get the lift and just ride like a semi truck without air bags.

 

If you're 21 you haven't had a job making 6 figures for long. That's not a good way to look at life. I have plenty of friends in the patch that had that attitude that are in bankruptcy court right now. Not that you probably care.

Anyways, back to the lift, $400 is probably not enough to allocate to this. Are you doing the work yourself? What lift are you looking at?

 

It's a skill that I won't loose but I'm not here to convince you about my finances.

I was going to get a leveling kit and have it installed by Les Schwab...and then get a little bit bigger tires but not so big that it would damage fenders.

 

What do you mean by "leveling kit". Have you even looked into the different types of lift. Trust me, you don't want a spacer lift unless you enjoy a shitty ride and just want that brah look.

 

I was going to get this. http://www.realtruck.com/readylift-...aram=2700019&gclid=CLLqwLPM6scCFdcegQodoqgKXg

 

Oh fuck me. I came back in and instantly regret it.

Now the thread makes sense.

 

Basically for the Tacoma you have:

Front lift

1. Top plate spacers, which can wreck your shocks on large bumps even just on road but leave the ride feeling.
2. Coil spacers, which compress the coil more on the shock which avoids the carnage issues of the top plate spacers but gives a very crummy ride.
3. Bilistein 5100's, which replace the factory shocks and also, like the coil spacers, pre load the stock springs. The ride is OK as long as you aren't going for 2.5" of lift or more
4. Bilistein 5100's plus new coils, which are the cheapest option to have a better than factory ride and 3" of lift
5. Aftermarket true coilovers, which are overkill if you don't offroad.

Rear lift

1. Spacers/blocks, which give a factory ride but don't add any suspension travel. IF the blocks go offroad they can also break and leave you stranded.
2. AAL (Add a leaf), can effect the factory ride a bit negatively but give extended travel and good performance offroad and on.
3. New rear leafs, again this is overkill unless going offroad or towing.

 

Hell no, IMHO.

That's a top plate spacer and a low quality one at that. Prepare for:

 

BTW you are also going to need aftermarket UCA's if you want the factory alignment specs at 3" of lift. Those are another $500.

 

I would double check the lease wording before you make any changes. Technically you have the option to buy but as of right now you're not the owner. Make sure they can't ding you with any extra fees when the time comes to execute the purchase option because of any modifications.

 

Damn you know your stuff. So Sterdog what do you reccomend. Because I would like to add some sort of lift so I can get at least 32 or 33 inch tires?

 

Here's about the cheapest 3" lift you are going to get away with that will ride factory and not have the potential to cause carnage:

http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Bilstein-Adjustable-lift-kit-with-5100-shocks_p_132.html

You may need an aftermarket upper control arm as well to get back to the factory alignment.

If you want 33" tires, go to the skinny 255/80/r17. I was able to fit mine under my truck with some fiddling (cut the flaps, removed the front air dam flap, and added 1/4" wheel spacers). If you get a set of aftermarket upper control arms you wouldn't need the wheel spacer.

 

BTW you'll want to add the small top plate spacer on that page to get to the 3" of lift on a DCLB and get rid of the Taco lean.

 

Thanks man. Could you send me a link to the other parts you're saying I'd need along with the lift kit you sent.

 

Don't forget to put some money aside for a financial advisor to teach you how to avoid financial pitfalls and falsehoods in thinking where money is being made, money doesn't need to be cared for.

 

Thanks bud. Appreciate the irrelevant comments

 

So this:

http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Bilstein-Adjustable-lift-kit-with-5100-shocks_p_132.html

On the drop down menu's select: no differential drop (it doesn't work on our trucks like it should) and add the top plate spacers. Also make sure you select the Toytec AAL as your rear lift option.

Then this if you want to make sure you can get the factory alignment at 3" of lift:

http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Total-Chaos-UCAs-05-Tacoma-07-FJ-Cruiser-03-4Runner_p_1009.html

OR

http://toyteclifts.3dcartstores.com/Light-Racing-Upper-Control-Arms-05-UP-Tacoma_p_195.html

The Total Choas UCA is a better product but you have to grease the uniball every once in a while and it can squeak. The light racing control arms are a bit sketchy for longevity but cheaper and they require less maintenance.

Remember when getting this installed to tell the installer to put the 5100's on the second clip with the new springs plus the top spacers to get 3" of safe lift. Well, safe enough. You will still wear on the CV's hard.

 

Oh, and personally I run this tire in the 255/80r17 size. It's badass in just about any condition other than pure ice:

http://us.coopertire.com/Tires/Light-Truck/DISCOVERER-S-T-MAXX.aspx

 

Exhibit A.

You seem to be completely over your head. There's a whole forum dedicated to the vehicle you leased and yet you still don't understand what modifications you want to make, how they work, what you need, etc.

Nobody cares about your income, or asked about it, and it doesn't change that you don't know how to make a good financial decision, kiddo.