SOLVED! Post 2853 Leaking Injectors, Dealer Techs Rock! Extended Cranking after Engine Swap 3.4L 5vz

Yep that's the one.
While you guys have the upper control arm just hanging there, hoist it up and down to see the resistance I was talking about.
You don't need a dial indicator to measure, .020" just isn't that much. Forget the "60lbs of force" as some exact number to follow. Just stick a pry bar or a good sized screwdriver between the head of one of the 4 ball joint bolts and the end of the lower arm and wiggle. Moderate hand force should be sufficient to move the joint if there is any play.

With that, there is no reason you couldn't put her all back together, do the test and change them out at a few weeks down the road if needed. The catastrophic failures happen at a point well beyond the .020" wear. You don't need to remove a bunch of other stuff to R=R a LBJ.

 

Check out a couple of the dealers that sell online like camelback....those lower joints as mentioned already are just under $100 online...OEM

 

Go ahead and check em, that's a bunch of miles. See where this is going? Folks have gone that far on originals but many more have come apart long before. On line OEM's <$100 each.
It's pretty much standard shop procedure to replace in pairs. Look back at the cut away pic. The forces involved are "pulling" on the stud of the ball. Before catastrophic failure can occur the liner would have to wear completely thru then the ball would have to wear (metal on metal) thru the heat treated steel. When it get's to be metal on metal it will feel rough.

 

Thanks guys!! Took a quick lunch break and back to it now.

Eric already began putting things back together so we're proceeding with evaluating them as discussed earlier.

We're checking torque specs and it looks like:

• lower ball joint bolts are 59ft lbs
  
• 
  
• lower ball joint castle nut 103ft lbs
  
• 
  
• tie rod end castle nut 67ft lbs
  
• 
  
• still looking for torque specs on upper ball joint castle nut

 

80ft lbs.

 

Sweet, thanks!

TW, we are currently stalled out cuz my bull headed husband wouldn't listen to me and get the neighbor with the awesome automotive tools garage code before he left for work, LIKE I SUGGESTED 2 hours ago but got a nasty, that's not necessary look from my better half. He needs a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter he said?

And now..............neighbor's at work and not answering his phone. Looks like we're calling A Zone Men. Sorry, had to say it guys.

 

And...........

Eric's on his way to get in the zone.

 

174 lbs on the big axle nut.
I'm going for beer.

 

If your toying with not doing the lowers or just one side....look up lower ball joint failure pictures for runners or tacomas.....

You'll not even consider not changing them out after you look at the carnage.

 

Eric's back.

Rethinking the possibility of not replacing those LBJs now. Thinking I will keep have visions of the carnage it could cause if they fail, and especially knowing how many miles they have on them. Starting to seem like a smaller and smaller price to pay.

Remind me - would you all do the passenger wheel bearing if doing drivers wheel bearing & both LBJs, or not unless the passenger wheel bearing is showing symptoms of problems?

 

Haha did you look at some carnage pics!? Friggin nasty hu?

I'd personally hold off on the other bearing till you guys start noticing/showing signs of wear. It won't have cataclysmic failure like them stinking lower ball joints...

 

I torqued the 4 lower ball joint bolts into place, then I did the tie rod end castle nut. Now I am trying to tighten the upper ball joint, and the post is just spinning inside the ball joint. Should I wrestle with it, or does this mean it needs to be replaced? Another video to demonstrate what I am talking about...

 

re-installing...

 

Yep, DP posted a link this morning and we looked at it.

Correction, Eric looked at it right away. Later, curious what it was a link to, I asked Eric if he'd looked at it yet.

He said, "YOU DON'T WANT TO LOOK AT THAT!" Guess he was trying to avoid this followed by this .



Been looking online to see if I can find them cheaper, but not sure what businesses to trust to be genuine OEM parts.

 

I knew you would be asking this question on one of the joints. Try squeezing the the upper arm against the tapered shank of the joint to generate a little friction. It's the nature of that type of tapered fitting to lock together once it gets started. Sometimes a tap from below will wedge it in just enough.

On the "Super Glue". I'm sure some shade tree says "that's all I use" and in reality true thread locking compound is super glue with some additives and solids, I say get the real thing.

Dinner and beer time now.

 

The items in the carts in these links are per part numbers from our local dealer parts guy, who has never steered me wrong with a part number, so I'm fairly confident I've got the right stuff in each cart.

Trying to be sure of that, then decide whether to order from one of these places or eat the extra cost and get them from the local dealer to be done that much sooner.

Do the items in each cart look right to you guys? Anyone ever order from either of them? Wonder how fast they'd arrive........

http://www.toyotamcdonoughparts.com/cart.aspx


https://parts.olathetoyota.com/cart.html

 

How bout Toyota Parts E-Store? Anyone ever use them? They are a little cheaper than the two I linked above:

https://toyotapartsestore.com/scart.php

 

I yelled at him about the Super Glue. He didn't tell me he was planning to do that, I wonder why? I saw it on the thread, then went out there and busted him Can't do much but laugh about it now.

Beer time for sure. Getting close to that time over here too.

 

That place would still be cheaper by $25 than getting them from a local dealer, even if we got the wrong thing somehow and had to eat the shipping expense x 2 (both directions). I called and he said they are genuine Toyota parts, shipping out of California. What do you guys think? Anyone ever use this Toyota Eparts store?

Eric just did the test per the FSM and thinks they are fine, but is open to replacing them anyway if I want to. I think I do. Bout ready to order from the Eparts place, but waiting to see if any of you have any good, bad, or ugly experiences ordering parts from them before I do it.......

Also getting closer and closer to beer time So much for finishing the gate today.

 

https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/m...gcart/index.cfm?action=checkout&siteid=214329

And.........free shipping through this one, the cheapest option by far!

@bry838 , was it you that suggested the Camelback store? Thanks for the tip! Have you used them with success before for parts?