Test rode a '16 TRD Sport tonight... loved it... but...

Unless the engine braking effect is huge, I'm not sure what the issue is. When driving my manual Mustang, I'm always using lower gears to help slow my descent down a hill, or coming to a turn, etc. maybe I'm just used to it?

 

I do it all the time in automatics - pull a gear down to improve deceleration without adding heavy braking. I miss manual transmissions (wife's brain can't fathom a clutch), and the sensation of downshifting into a corner and then blasting my way out. Pure bliss.

12 years on the Corolla and no issues. The Prius even has a CVT selection for it. No problems.

 

This. Engine braking is cool with me, do it every day in my 6MT coupe. With all this talk of the auto powertrain being sluggish I'm seriously starting to lean towards an MT TRD OR over an Auto Limited. Hopefully I'll be able to test drive both.

 

I would have been satisfied if Toyota used the Dual VVTI 1GR-FE from the 4runner and FJ Cruiser. It's even more powerful that than the VQ. 285hp and 289lbft

 

Not me, I'd MUCH rather put stress on rotors/pads or drum brakes from 1952......than an engine.

 

It's an obvious and blatant attempt to make an extra dime at the expense of product quality. How many Trophy trucks use drum brakes?

I am a former Tacoma owner and planned on making the 2016 mine again.......I guess I'm pissed because it's disappointing they cut corners.

 

These threads have become a shit show.

 

Maybe Toyota won't make purposeful decisions to shit on their iconic truck if people complain enough.

 

Sounds like you are a fanboy. Toyota could roll a hot turd off the assembly line and as long as it said "Toyota" on it, you'd probably buy it. I don't really see the harm in people stating their opinions/experiences, whether positive or negative on here. If I had found out all of the issues with Tacomas that Toyota has failed to address in the 10 years before the 3rd gen redesign, I might not have bought one. With all the issues people have with their trucks, it might affect how many people buy them. If sales go down, Toyota would actually put effort into an actual redesign, or address the issues more promptly. Maybe then 2rd gen owners would have a truck with a frame that won't rust out, an engine that doesn't ping, brakes that don't clack when you step on them, and leaf springs that don't sag. Having more information on a product helps consumers make better choices.

 

Oh Lord, more of the disc brake nonsense...

 

It's not a matter of stress or wear on either end. Neither does harm to anything and I certainly don't do it to save my brakes. I primarily use engine braking when driving a manual because the only appropriate time to be in neutral is when stopped.

 

Engine braking most certainly does harm to your engine, rear end and your tranny.....long term. It wears your piston rings abnormally and puts wear outside the normal wear patterns on you gears and whatnots. Brakes are much cheaper in the long run. Put a vacuum gauge on your intake and see how high you can get the manifold vacuum when revving a motor and then go out an engine brake it.

While it's true that the only appropriate time to be in neutral is stopped (and shifting) doesn't mean you cant have the clutch in...

 

its heating up nicely in here.

 

Sitting on the clutch, unlike engine braking, actually does accelerate wear. Specifically, on the throwout bearing.

 

I never did understand why people engine brake. I would rather replace brakes than an engine or transmission.

The only time I would engine brake is if my brakes were getting too hot.

 

agreed. On the throwout bearing. Which is cheaper, a clutch replacement at 100K or an engine rebuild at 100K? Or just live with putting in extra oil into the engine or live with the whining 20 dollar clutch bearing when you reinstall the old clutch bearing with the new clutch you'll likely need at 100K miles. Clutch discs wears depending on the number of applications, either one engagement per stop or 7 depending on how you drive....

Which is not to say I never engine brake....I do it for traffic flow purposes.

 

The rings "curl" into the chamber more during high vacuum time periods. Come off throttle at 3000 to idle and measure your manifold pressure (which is dampened in this vehicles engine mapping)....then do a engine brake from 3000 and see your manifold pressure. How much time to you spend at the lower manifold pressure (higher vacuum) and you are wearing the microscopic edges of your rings and walls.

Tis why revving an engine in neutral is generally considered frowned upon, especially from higher rpms. Let it down smoothly.

 

It's amazing how much BS gets spread around the internet.