Rust Protection?

Anyone planning on applying additional protection against rust/corrosion when they get their new truck?

Not sure what type of protection if any Toyota is using on the 3rd gen, but have read about rusting issues on the 2nd gen.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

I am in Canada and always use "rustcheck" on my trucks. If you live anywhere near salt or snow I would get it. It's seen as a positive factor in buying anything used around here.

 

There is no such thing as a one time fix vs rust if you plan on keeping your truck and maintain it's resale value. If you sell or trade it after 5 to 8 plus years and 100k miles with any rust hole or rust appearance on body or rusty looking frame you loose thousands.

What works for me and has always worked for everyone who does it is this. Use a garden sprayer with biodegradable oil you can spray inside of body panels through drain and access holes and coat the frame both inside and out. . You can also paint the frame with grease using a foam brush. But where the frame is boxed, spray oil inside through access holes. This is the only way. It takes less time then an oil change to do and doing it once every year or two is all that is required.

I live in a heavily salted area (midMaine) and in the thirty plus years of owning Toyota trucks and have never had a rust problem of any kind.

 

Was tempted to see if I could get someone to coat with POR15 right off the lot. Overkill?

 

Muskoka Ont. Canada here...(Salt and also calcium chloride ...this shit is ever more corrosive than sodium chloride (salt)... I am also a firm believer in a yearly application of "Corrosion Free"...it's a newer and better version of "Rust Check"; but they are very similar in that they both "creep" into any and all cracks and crevices and push any water out... I'm a 100% believer in this stuff.... My '06 passed the frame rust inspection with flying colours... the dealer said he had seen an '06 that looked so good on the underside .....

Now I'm getting top dollar an a trade for a '16...

My 2016 will be getting it as soon as it leaves the dealer's lot....!!

 

I read about "rust check" and probably like Corosion Free needing a yearly application, they are free flowing material. ANYTHING that advertises it is permanent one coating has to harden at some point. When it does, it clogs drain holes. That is the critical part of having something that needs yearly application; it is probably free flowing. If it isn't free flowing, it can't cover areas it has that needs to be sprayed. With oil based products and other free flowing agents, the material will flow down hill, just like the salt brine you are tryin to protect your car from, and sink into the revises where the water is found and displace it shutting off the O2. Por15 and other products that DONOT remain free flowing are just outer frame covering protection and CANNOT be used inside body panels where they will harden and plug drain holes and allow rust to form from the inside out. They also have no value inside the box frame.

Only listen to suggestions that YOU MUST RE APPLY YEARLY ,

If one time protection coatings worked.....car companies would use them. They obviously don't because no one offers a factory installed treatment. Rust starts at the welds whose extreme heat even neutralizes galvanization and other rust proof coatings put on metals before the are welded.

I know people look for one time rust prevention measures...they don't work in severe rust areas where salt rules. Only the yearly measures described do. And, because biodegradable oil can be sprayed on by the owner for minimal cost and effort, that's what I recommend.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll go the yearly oil route.

 

G oil makes biodegradable motor oil to be safe. You can order it by the case if there is no distributor near by. Other then shipping, it's reasonably inexpensive. I do not use it as a motor oil but for rust prevention in safety, it works. Google different sites to see how to do it. Your body panels need to be rust proofed too. I would go to a body shop, and talk to some to the techs about your vehicle. They can help with strategies.http://www.getg.com/G-OIL_motor_oils.php

 

For rust prevention options and discussion see:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rust-prevention-treatment-consolidation-thread.355928/

 

Quick question: why is it that trucks need all this rust-proofing? How come it isn't the same for cars?

 

Cars will rust too:

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?5055496-Most-rust-prone-in-the-last-10-years
http://www.theautonet.com/en/2013/10/09/top-10-best-and-worst-rust-resistant-cars

 

I agree, I guess what I'm saying is that of the cars that my family and I have owned for the past 20 or so years, none of them have had any sort of significant rust problems. This is with the usual blasting the undercarriage and wheel wells with the garden hose and nozzle every time we wash the car...that's all.

 

You can also use Krown and reapply every year. Similar to Fluid Film and other products already mentioned above.

 

Good question.......unibody construction is designed so entire body structures can all be dipped at once. They are designed with drain holes so the entire unibody drains well which includes the welded in subframe.

A truck frame is constructed and painted separately from the body as well as other exposed bolt on components. After they are bolted together, there are areas in each that no longer drain completely. It's the nature of the beast and a poor job of design contributes more to rust then just complaining about the frame materiel itself.

When I spray oil into the bodies of my unibody cars, they are much easier to make rust resistant because they drain so well. The ladder frame and separate body on a truck is a royal pain as each must the treated separately and the areas where they are bolted together creates big problems doing it.

Just look under a unibody car vs a truck and you can see how many more recesses and crevices in a truck undercarriage that can hold moisture. So, though both rust, you can generally expect a truck to rust faster

 

So, where do you live ? If you change cars in about 6 to 8 years in this day and age even in salt areas, with perforation mandates and the plastic cladding designed to keep rust from forming in critical areas, most cars will "appear" rust free. Rust is always forming within a few years on inner panels you can't see in unibody cars. In salt areas after about 8 to 10 years, they all start rusting from the inside out.....look for those little tell tale bubbles. It's often the second owner that has to deal with it.

You key word is "significant" and like cancer, the rust you see is way less then 10% of what there actually is. When you see those little bubbles around a well, it may not appear much to you, but it's just a year or two away from putting a fist through. A few little bubbles will make your car worth thousands less come trade in time.

 

YES..a yearly application if you want to protect your investment in "the great SALTY north"... YES... Corrosion Free and these others do "travel" a lot... I notice this stuff coming out of the bottom holes in the doors and travelling up the out side of the door...I have to wipe it off about every 4 months or the bottom of the doors will then collect some dust and look dirty... I'd rather have to do that then put up with the rust....

Cheers.....My 2.26 cents worth...(13% tax in Ontario)..hehe

 

I've lived pretty much all of my life on Long Island or in Connecticut, where there is fairly heavy salting of the roads in the winter. I'm talking near 20-year old cars with zero bubbles of any kind in the metal. Maybe it was just the type of car, the type of construction, etc. I won't say that there has been zero rust, but all the rust that I've ever repaired was the result of a dent or ding on the outer panels. Certainly, the underside components are being exposed and rust through eventually (I've had the exhaust pipes drop out before), but never the body panels.

 

I don't want to dismiss the area you live, but the snow in Connecticut vs northern NE is gone by noon when it does snow, salt or not. There are states that will get two and three applications of calcium during one extended storm. When you get well over a hundred inches of snow, the salt is held inplace by the snow that accumulates under the car. You have no where near the sub freezing days that require frequent salting. Sorry...Connecticut and Long Island is where some of us go south for the winter to get a tan.

 

Fair enough, not dismissing the pummeling they get way up in the northeast. All I'm saying is I've seen cars around me with quarter panels basically rotted to the frame on newer cars, and it makes me wonder what the heck those people are doing (or not doing) in comparison to me.

 

WD-40 is a good cheap corrosion guard.