Oil Consumption

My 05 2.7 Tacoma just recently started to burn about 2 quarts per 5000 miles I have about 150000 miles on it . Advice? Also thoughts about switching from full synthetic to a conventional oil with high mileage additives? I attached a picture of my exhaust staining my paint or at least I think this is related if not advice on that too. ( sorry for the noob questions I just know practically nothing about vehicles)

 

Any easy thing to check is your PCV. There are a few threads on here that describe where it is and how to clean or replace it.
If it's not that, it may be worn engine components like valve seals or rings.
Good luck compadre!

 

I am a certified motor oil nerd. Also I wrecked a 2.7L 2005 at 740k miles. Here's my experiences and advice.

Oil consumption at the rate you describe started to occur for me at 350k miles. You may have coking at the top of your pistons and rings. Other possibilities are valve seat wear or need of valve stem seal replacement.

Just keep topping off. Your next issue is smog checks. Learn your state's rules and figure out how to keep the expense to a minimum regarding smog repair. You might be able to save your cat by using Mobil 1 5W30 ESP or Castrol High Milage 5W20 or 5W30. Phosphorus is the enemy.

 

I had an old '88 Hyundai that had a bad PCV valve, and it did about what you're describing here, where it's a recent thing, as opposed to over time. That would be my first check if I were you, and clean the TB, because if the PCV valve is stuck, all that oil is getting stuck on your TB blades, causing you to lose MPG's as well. Good luck.

 

Luckily Florida doesn't have emissions testing. BUT WOW 750000 miles!!! That's crazy what were you doing with your truck?!? I can't find any pics of the 2.7l pcv valve if anyone has one or knows a link let me know please!

 

Most likely valve stem seals, I've replaced hundreds of them on Toyota's.

 

PCV is so easy... start there

 

I would have over one million miles now if I had not totalled my 2TR FE. Delivery driver subcontractor. 70% highway 30% city driving.

Robnik is right. He knows what tends to happen. Robnik, what is that, a $900 repair?

Florida? JUST TOP OFF!! It will run fine. Keep a rag and a spray bottle of detailer handy.

Motor oil? Prolly whatever is your favorite name brand dino 5W20 in a 5qt jug that is a good deal at Walmart. IMHO.

2TR FE

2005 Spec: 5W30 SM.
2015 Spec: 0W20 SN.

 

^ True, it ain't cheap. But it is what it is... PCV valve:



Should look like this:

 

If U R burning oil it will eventually FUBAR the cat and that is $$$

 

In this drawing they are calling it the Ventilation Valve Sub-Assembly

 

@colton1808 , which weight oil are you using? To thin a weight, such as a 20 weight ( I.E. 5w-20) will burn off much more quickly than a heavier weight. Especially in warmer months and climates. This being aside from any potential engine leaks.

 

Sure. 2qts. 5k miles. Now that's excessive blow by!!
I empathize---I had the same issue.

HM oils have seal swellers, seal conditioners as their main attribute---no help here.

Also different brands can have different rates of consumption. Sure, viscosity/HTHS can be a factor. 5W20 is a happy medium, with less sluggish performance.

OP's oil consumption ain't going away without valve stem seal replacement. In a non-Smog check state, and with Florida temps rarely going below freezing, maybe the answer is Rotella T5, watya think, Torspd?

There is no perfect answer. I say just top off, clean right rear quarter panel, and go for .5 million miles !! Gawd what I went through with cats and Cali smog laws. Move out here. Meet the man known as the "Smog Referee." LOL.

 

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/05/16/an-introduction-to-motor-oil-for-dirt-bikes-atvs-and-utvs/

http://www.google.com/search?q=oil+...odVoUGPw#tbm=isch&q=5w-20+oil+viscosity+chart


In Florida right now, it is likely much higher than 60 degrees Fahrenheit . If the OP isn't using a 20 weight oil, and at least a 30 weight, he should be good. Secondly, you are possibly right @taco woodeye, as there could be a lot of valve stem oil build up. Running some Redline Oil S4 fuel system cleaner, a few times, will be much easier than a valve job. That, and or Lucas Oil upper cylinder lubricant/cleaner.

My choices would be this if the engine is running good but just seems to be going through oil a little fast.

Compression test

Change to next thicker oil weight. Either a 30 or a 40. Living in Florida, I'd use a 40.

Redline fuel system cleaner and Lucas Oil upper cylinder lubricant, to try to clean build-up off of valves.

Catch can installed.

All being based off of the first action of testing compression.

BTW, there are currently lawsuits right now with Audi, and another for losing a quart of oil in 1k miles. Thin weight burns off to fast, causes engine damage, and factory recommends high mileage change intervals. 5k +.

 

I'm using 5w 30. Right now I'm actually in Delaware I'm stationed up here for another 7 months and then headed back to Florida so I have another winter to go through :/..... Thanks for all the advice sorry on the late reply I ended up putting in penzoil high mileage oil along with the high mileage filter With gel in the filter.. I don't feel like spending 900 bucks yet so I guess I'll just keep filling it up when is low.

 

#1, replace the PCV as others have said. Easy, cheap, likely needs doing even if it doesn't fix the issue.

#2, definitely keep topped up. Changing oil type likely won't make much difference. But 2qts in 5k isn't a death knoll either. In the 60's, 1qt per 1k was a reasonable number on a new engine

#3, before paying anyone to do any work, have a compression test, including a leak down test, performed. That will tell you exactly where the problem is.

Once you know that, get a repair estimate from a competent shop. Save your money and get the work done. As mentioned, you'll be toasting expensive cats, sensors etc soon.

 

Replace the PCV... (super cheap less than 10 bucks)

And call it good. If she runs decent, just keep topping her off if consumption continues.

 

Thanks bill as easy as 1,2,3 . I appreciate all the help, I'll go and get one from the dealership in the morning doesn't look hard at all to replace.

 

I replaced the PCV (it was still good but im glad I did). I went to the base auto hobby shop and the tech told me that the black on the quarter panel is exhuast from gas not oil because if it was oil it would be blue? And that a compression test/ leakdown test wont help me identify an oil issue. Any thoughts?

 

If your ring lands are broken (worst case scenario) you can burn oil, as well those test would prove it. By a low compression reading on whichever cylinder.