Wiring problem - maybe

I have a 2013 Takoma TRD Sport. I live on the side of a ridge and have had problems with critters eating wiring on two other vehicles. This time, I can not find any broken of chewed wires.

The Trac Off light is on solid as is the Check Engine light. The Cruise Control doesn't work and worst of all, the engine runs at half power up to 2500 and it runs completely out of power at 3000 RPM. It will not wind up past 3300RPM. I had a Subaru that did something similar and that turned out to be missing speed sensors at the wheel hubs. The gray squirrel that did that paid for his sins.

The only place that I haven't checked is what appears to be a plastic box with wiring going into it that is located by the rear differential. Does anyone know what the box is for or what is inside it?

 

scan the check engine light and it will give you a idea. it sounds like a secondary air injection problem

 

Yea, check engine codes will at least steer you to where the issue is. Bad fuse?

 

Thanks. What do I need to scan it? Test set, interface for a laptop?

 

I had ECU scanned by a tech at Advance Auto. TU showed the following codes:
P0031
P0037
P0051
P0057
P0102
P0113
P0416
P144c
P1613

Tech said that these all point to Mass Air Flow.

I had found chewed wires right at the connector to the Mass Air Flow Sensor and repaired them. I double checked them today. I also tried a cold boot (disconnected battery for 10 minutes). Still getting Trac Off, Check Engine and Cruise control is out and the engine is in "Limp Mode".

Any advice? To I have to go to the dealer to have the ECU reset and get out of Limp Mode?

 

what codes are left

 

Check all the fuses? Chewed wires can blow a fuse.

 

Fuses look good.

Those are the only codes that showed. Are there more?

 

Fuses can " look " good and still be blown. Get a multimeter and check the resistance of the fuse. It should be 0.0 ohms.

 

I'm pretty sure he means, which codes are left after you fixed the wiring. Codes will clear themselves if the issue is fixed/ or doesn't happen again. It takes a certain number of key on / key off cycles to clear them ( I forgot the magical #), you can also clear them with a scan tool.

 

Thanks for the thought but I've been working on computers since the 70's and knew enough to pull the relevant fuses and checked them with a meter.

The referenced codes were displayed twice - and according to the AA tech, indicated the ECU state before and after the wiring was repaired. They were checked after I had repaired the wiring.

 

Can you ballpark the number of key on / key off cycles? Truck has been started at least 20 times since the initial repair and 5 times since I proactively re-made the connections.

 

Try this link https://hsperformance.com/cummins-tech/clear-cummins-dtc-no-reader/

Consider that more as a reference, Linked it before I really read the whole thing.
From the top of my head it might take 20-50 key on key off cycles to clear a certain code. Its been 10 yrs since I took a SMOG/ advance diagnostics class, I wish I stuck with it. Being a smog guy in CA is easy money if you're at the right shop.

 

Thanks. I appreciate the help.

 

More on the codes.

I found another broken wire and repaired it. The truck is running almost normally again. Still have the Check Engine and the Track Off icons lit and the Cruise Control doesn't work. I went out of town and when we stopped for lunch, found another Advance Auto. The tech read the codes and found:
P0031
P0037
P0051
P0057
P0102
P0113
P0416
P144C
P1613
He cleared the codes that could be cleared (apparently some are permanent) and we were left with:
P0113 and P0416 - both of which point to the Intake Air Temp Sensor per the tech.

Anyone have any idea where the "Intake Air Temp Sensor" might be so I can check it?

 

Bump.

Anyone?