Tire Balance Issues, Need some help

wow, whoever was posting that on TTORA had no clue what they were talking about. you can test yourself by placing a set of stock rims on. they will not set right until they are around the hub. on my aluminum wheels I can rotate the wheel a fraction of a turn due to the lug holes being wider for the mag style lug nuts.

 

a bunch of folks are saying they're lug centric.

Another thread: You'll find this interesting as Fast Frank is on your side here:

 

I honestly don't really read ttora unless it's for a repair

that being said, everything I've read here on TW has pointed to hub-centric. that's also why people recommend hub-centric spacers.

 

That's true. Perhaps OP needs to find some spacers. It's likely that aftermarket wheels aren't a precise fit on the hub of the Tacoma. I would imagine that is the issue I am having as well, with the on/off vibration problems. Though I've gotten used to it and it's not a big deal, I may ask a tire shop if they have any adapters and give it a shot if my wheels have some play around the hub.

And yeah TTORA sort of died randomly, I guess everyone came over here now? I stopped using it when my threads were barely getting any views/responses anymore.

 

I have a slight vibration at 65. stock setup ( until Wed) and no other speed. I just got used to it

 

I've driven lots of stock tacos with the same vibe. Not sure what the hell it is but it ain't really a big deal. It's a truck not a Honda Accord lol

 

As for this lug centric hub centric stuff: its all about the wheels you buy! If you buy lug centric wheels chances are you'll have a slight whobble. Buy hub centric wheels(106.1 hub bore size) and they'll be nice and smooth,(bigger the tire though more chance of whobble due to more rubber as mentioned already)the stock wheels on Tacoma's are hub centric!

You can also buy "hub centric rings" to help with the issue of lug centric wheels. Figure out your hub bore size of your current wheels, probably 108 and change, then get the 108 (or whatever) to 106.1 size rings. They fill the gap around the hub to wheel that's there with lug centric wheels.

 

Ok so here is where i stand with this annoying bounce issue that i cant seem to put my finger on... So the beads definitely helped, especially in the front. However im still getting this annoying bouncing that replicates an out of balanced tire ONLY IN THE REAR. Iv had all four wheels/tires road forced and they all are in spec for not being defective. That right there rules out bad tires and wheels. So now its down to a process of elimination. The only things that iv changed in the rear are, the leaf springs (OME/Dakar) and Shocks. Here is what is happening in detail


As i approach 50mph the rear of my truck begins to bounce noticeably. As i pass 50mph and enter into the 55mph the bounce goes away and sometimes stays away and sometimes it will reappear again depending on road surface conditions. I notice the less smooth (rougher) the road is the less the bounce will happen. Its almost like an off and on frequency thing when it happens. Now sometimes ill hit 50mph and it wont appear at all... its not always consistent. My gut is telling me that i may have bought to soft of a shock. I purchased bilstien 5125 valved at 170/60. I went with a softer shock thinking it would improve ride quality matched with the OME/Dakar springs. The RECOMMENDED valving for my truck is 255/70. Do you think that i could be running to soft a shock for my application? When i bounce up and down on the bed of the truck it is pretty loose and free, especially on the rebound. I do know that shocks help with wheel/tire forces, hence why tires can CUP from worn out shocks. When a shock wears out they becomes looser and less able to control forces, both wheel/tire and road. Sorta like how my shocks are, there not worn out but there valved so light that there acting like a worn out shock. To get a better answer i called bilstien and they told me that normally the 170/60 valving is for running duel shocks. I had already knew that prior to purchasing my shocks, but i figured that the ass of my truck is only 1630 lbs... why go with a lot of valving. The only other thing that it could be is my springs, but iv never heard anyone ever complain of a bounce or jostling from an OME spring.


Any advice would be great

 

Three things you can try:

Try another set of tires and wheels,

disconnect and remove shocks drive your truck,

put a GoPro under your truck, watch your drive shaft shaft.

 

Not likely but the problem could be your brake drums.

 

As a last resort, you could try balancing your rear tires with some Dyna Beads. I used the "offroad" larger beads for my 35's and they are balanced perfectly with no wheel weights.

 

I thought that to, but everything checks out ok. I mean, can drums warp?

 

Yesterday I drove home with 300lbs in the bed and the bounce is still there. I was told that my OME springs could be the culprit due to there stiffer rating (I kinda call BS on that) figured id put that to rest. So now I'm back down to shocks and tires.

 

Yes, drums can warp if they over heat. More likely is if a balance weight was lost or a chunk rusted off on a drum. Drums get balanced during the manufacturing process much like tires. Usually only an issue on larger drums. It is a bit of a reach that the drums are the problem but it would not be the first time it has happened.

 

I have looked these up and am considering this option. Iv got some questions for you.

Did you have to break the tire off the rim to put these beads in?

How have they balanced so far? Any bouncing issues?

Its a toss up between the regular beads or the off road beads

 

Well i installed my shocks today (255/70). Took it for a test drive and the bounce is still there . So its back to the wheels and tires. Im at a loss. Its back to the wheels and tires again. I will be rotating them today (rear to front, front to back) and see what that does. My only other option is taking my old stock Tacoma wheels (hubcentric), painting them up and putting on a set of tires for those. What i really dont understand is my cooper stt MT never had a bounce to them, they were loud and towards the end of there service they began to cup. But never a problem with balancing. Now with these BF Goodrich all terrains i cant get the bastards to balance right. Ill post what i find after rotation today

 

Are the wheels you're running now not hubcentric?? I thought you mentioned they were earlier on in the thread?

 

If you use the offroad beads you have to break the bead to install them. I had mine installed when I got my new tires mounted. My 35's are balanced perfectly with only the dyna beads and no wheel weights. If you use the smaller beads, I believe you can install them through the valve stem. Email the Dyna Bead company with any questions you have. They answered my questions within a day. I don't know what exactly is involved with the "through the valve stem" install because I didn't do it that way.

 

I thought we covered that as well. None hub centeric wheels will act like an out of round tire.

 

So I did not see this mentioned. What wheels are you now running? You mentioned you got new wheels and tires.

your MTs were on different rims (as I understand the OP). Both are "HUB-centric" for Toyota 106.1mm and not just 6x5.5(139.7)?

Have you had them test just the rims?

have you put the rear up on jack stands and tested any wheel movement (just thought of this)?