Workbench

Yes. I seem to bump over a beer every other time I work on the bench and hate seeing the wood soak it up knowing it's not enjoying my cold filtered adult beverage as much as I would have. Do just the top and shelf. I wouldn't bother with the legs, etc

 

Thx. Have you heard of plywood warping if only 1 side is treated?

Another option for me is to get a 1/4" hardwood plywood to protect the 3/4" sheet.

 

I'd do the latter. Sacrificial work surface with countersunk screws that is easy to replace. When you cut the first one, cut a second one to size so it is ready to go. Of course, I never had to replace my old one for 9 years, drawings, cuts, drill holes, paint, oil, solvent, beer sweat, and all. The slick surface is nice and easy to brush off and clean, too.

 

...for a workbench i'd just apply a boiled linseed oil finish, or a danish oil finish... both are very easy to apply, and easy for any "touch ups" later on down the road... i'd apply the oil (probably two coats, w/ about an hour dry time in between coats) to the whole thing, all surfaces, both the solid wood and plywood components... ...i would not use any wood stains or polyuerethane finishes because, ...it just isn't that feasible for a workbench, ...which will take wear anyway... also, you probably don't want your bench top to have a slick finish because that would diminish it's workholding ability...

 

I agree with the Boiled Linseed Oil, Danish or Tung Oil. You will have to refinish occasionally.

One might consider a sacrificial top during the build because over time you will scar up your top. Performing mechanical repair on a Woodworking Bench is a sure way to destroy your bench top. I use either rubber mats, cardboard or a removable 1/4" ss top if I have to do anything other than woodworking on them.

Mobility is another important feature of any workbench design. All my workbenches (5) can be moved easily. Three of which have large urethane casters making movement very smooth and easy.

Think about clamping features you need. What type of vise(s) you will install. I like the pattern makers vises.

Good Luck on your Bench Build.

 

Plain BLO is fine for a finish, as stated. Plywood tops can be left as-is unless covered with some other more purposeful surface (carpet, sheet metal, etc.)

I have to confess, I don't see the utility or desirability of a mobile bench, but I'll take your word for it. Banging, cutting threads, various sawing and chiselling duties, chopping mortises, not to mention planing boards, I can't see a reason for a mobile bench. I guess if your space is that limited, but then most people over-estimate the actual size of a bench top that they need anyway.

For planing, it can't be too long or too heavy. Other than that, all you really need is a place to hold your vices and a general work area. If you're making furniture, you'll be better served with an assembly table or a clean area of floor than a great wide bench where you're trying to both cut and plane parts as well as assemble them.

I still say a clean, open floor and a solid kitchen chair makes a decent bench and will carry you through quite a few projects.

 

...some updates, finally! my progress is at a snails pace (but i'm learning "stuff" )

Landing Gear detail (retracted up into frame):


Interface for mounting benchtop... homemade wooden "bushings" w/ through hole for lag screw up front, ...slotted hole for lag screw in rear to accommodate "seasonal movement" of the benchtop..


Benchtop mounted, dog holes bored, vises mounted, Danish oiled... Still to-do: make and install a "chop" for the front vise, and make a "tool tray" to fill in the big gaping void at the center-rear of the benchtop

 

Wiley,

You are doing a great job. That will be a very nice Workbench.

Take your time and enjoy the journey.

 

Very nice workbenches, truly you all have much more patience than I do working with wood.

I just grabbed an 8'x4' of 3/4 oak had them cut a foot off, used 2x4's for a rectangular upper support with screws drilled through the top of the hardwood. Then I used scrap 2x4's screwed together to make 4x4 legs and made a bottom ring around the legs with one side missing so I can roll stuff under the bench. Painted the top with a few coats of white primer/sealant and called it good.

It's pretty solid unless I'm hand-sawing something in the vise but it's not too bad.

Right after it was built but before the paint and a small vise was put on one side:


It's full of crap now too , more recent photo kinda.

 

thanks! ...as it seems, i specialize in moving "slowly"

i also specialize in clutter, as you can see in many of my pics, ...so first order of business is making some tool storage, ..i'll need to build a wall-hung rack to hang my clamps, ..chisels rack (pegboard mounted), ...saw till/or rack (pegboard mounted)...

 

Nice work, if you are concerned about racking you might cut down a piece of1/2" cdx plywood and screw it to the inside of the legs on the back side above the shelf next to the wall. Does double duty, keeps things square and doesn't let you lose things off the back side so you get to crawl around looking for them underneath the shelf. Or if it sets against the wall, then you could run the plywood up about 4" on the back like a backsplash on your counter.
If it is to be mobile, urethane caster are great and you can get locking ones. Also for a mobile unit you could install a couple outlets under the edge or on the legs and run a pigtail cord to power them. Lots of options. Looks good, You are on the right track

 

...did a "retrofit" upgrade to the workbench, ...added a "sliding deadman" (or I think the more PC term is "board jack"? )

... i borrowed some design elements from the benchcrafted shaker bench design for the deadman rail, which sits proud of the lower frame stretcher (since my benchtop overhangs the frame)... being this is a retrofit, ...milling a groove in the bottom of the benchtop would've required a great deal of effort in the chore of removing and manipulating this heavy slab top to turn it upside down, ...well, that and i'd have to clean up all the clutter/mess so instead i make a rail w/ the groove, and it's just screwed to the underside of the benchtop, flush w/ the front... ...another design change, ...i didn't want to make a permanent tenon in the top of the deadman, ...so instead came up w/ a removable tenon, which slides into place and is held captive by a fixed pin embedded in the deadman board, and a removable pin... this makes inserting/removing the whole assembly easy, and there's little slop between the groove and tenon, unlike w/ some of the traditional designs...

assembly (left-to-right-to-bottom): removable tenon (pine), removable tenon pin (walnut and oak), deadman board (maple), runner (red oak), rail w/ groove (red oak)


..the rail, .a "house-shaped" profile (inspired by the benchrafted shaker bench design), i did mine in red oak:


installed:


closeup of the removable tenon and pin in the grooved benchtop rail (notice the "ray fleck" visible on the red oak rail!):


another look, the deadman can be slid left-right into any position along the frame of the bench for supporting panels in concert w/the face vice (left):

 

Nice job

 

thanks oz! ...notice my penchant for leevalley/veritas hardware

 

Fellow Lee Valley junkie , haha

 

...guilty as charged!