1998 tacoma 4wd front wheel bearing replacement

https://youtu.be/pws-an6GhYg

 

Nice little picture writeup there Erik!

 

Very nice! Many will appreciate this.

 

Are the manual hub bearings the same as the add bearings? Haven't noticed much mention of the manual hubs, just wondering if they're as big of pain.

 

^^^ wondering the same thing

 

I wanna know too!!

 

Nice work OP!

 

nice vid, Thanks for the work erik. Did what sort of parts did you get replaced? just the bearings? or the bearings and the seals? or bearings and seals and the spindle?

 

My truck doesn't have the manual hubs. I found this in my FSM if it helps any. I had a hard time finding straight forward info about changing a front wheel bearing that has been pressed in, so I made this slide show.

 

I just did the wheel bearing and the inner and outer seals. Everything else was reused. Thanks

 

Ok thanks. I'm balls deep in a bushing change/axle swap and realized that my bearings needed to be replaced too.

 

Nice. About to have to do this myself. I have manual hubs though so the process is a little different. Doubt it will be any different at the machine shop though.

Two things...

1. Was there some purpose I don't know about to loosening the LBJ castle nut? Every time I've had to take the knuckle loose to remove the CV axle, I've never loosened that. Just took the four fasteners loose that attach the knuckle to the LBJ.

2. The brake calipers. I've found that if you compress them before removing them with a set of channel locks or similar (like you do when you are going to replace the brake pads) it saves some headaches.

 

you are correct... there is no reason to loosen the lower ball joint castle nut, unless you doubt the condition of your lower ball joint.

correct again!

 

Thanks. Would you mind if I asked how much the machine shop charged ya for installing the bearing and seals?

 

$40.00 took him 20 minutes. i made sure to ask him if he had done a toyota one of these before just to make sure he doesn't screw up my steering knuckle...i hear they are hard to find.

 

Cool, thanks. I don't anticipate a lot of fun here. Gonna do my LCA bushings at the same time. Everything I've heard says I'll be lucky if it doesn't involve a cutting implement.

 

thanks man! i discovered this guys website http://bajataco.com/tech/control_arms_01.html and it was pretty handy when it comes to suspension type stuff...i'd be curious to see how you did. good luck!

 

Thanks! That article should be useful for letting me know what to expect. I just ordered my LCA bushings (

$35 MOOG K200119 Suspension Control Arm Bushing Kit for Toyota Tacoma

MOOG K200119) from Rockauto. They aren't scheduled to be here until the 1st though. I have my wheel bearing and seals so as soon as I get the LCA bushings, or at least have a tracking number to let me know when they are supposed to arrive exactly, I can being work accordingly. Unfortunately, it looks like I'm going to have to take my steering rack loose again. I just replaced the rack bushings and the inner tie rods. Man I hate backing up.

I did however soak the eccentrics in the LCAs down with the miracle acetone/ATF a week or two ago. I'll do so again the day before I begin work on the LCAs. That stuff is incredible. Makes PB Blaster seem no different than if you sprayed water on thing. When I did the steering rack, I had a jamb nut on the outer tie rod end that I couldn't get loose even using all my strength on an 1 1/8 wrench. I sprayed the acetone/ATF mix on there and let it set for 45 minutes and tried it again. I swear it was like the nut was already loose. I was just getting myself in position to put some force on the nut and barely put any force on the wrench and the nut moved. Even I couldn't believe it. It's amazing stuff and makes every other penetrating oil out there look like a joke, so I'm hoping it will have done it's thing by the time I get around to working on the LCAs.

At any rate, I'll be sure to let you know how it goes.

 

Well, I tackled the LCAs today. The passenger side eccentrics came out easily by hand, as did the forward one on the drivers side. The aft drivers side fought me a bit, but with the help of the acetone/atf miracle mixture, I was able to get it moving using a brass drift and an BFH. Drove it forward as far as I could and greased it with wheel bearing grease and drove it back through the other way. It pretty much sailed right out then. The LCA bushings themselves kicked my arse though. My ball joint press wasn't up to it. Could have gone up to HD and got some threaded rod and some nuts like some DIY threads suggest, but the Machine Shop said they could do it, so I figured why the hell not let them deal with it and save me the headaches. At $20 per bushing, it's a little pricy, but still a lot cheaper than just buying just one whole new control arm.

BTW, they nailed me for $72 to press in the wheel bearing.