MARYLAND TACOMAS

They are nice for low torque applications. We have lots of problems with them spinning or breaking when trying to tighten bolts.

 

yeah, I've had a number spin on me. I've put a few in with epoxy now, and the seem to hold a little better. installed a very high end rear bumper on a friends land rover a few years ago, and a couple points on it used riv-nuts. I was very very skeptical of it, but years later now, it's going strong.

 

PEM nuts and PEM studs are nice too. But both those and threaded inserts (riv nuts) are really only geared toward low torque applications like @jowybyo mentioned. And to get them to seat how they're designed to seat requires a fairly expensive tool. I know you can make a homemade one to install them but to make sure they're perfect a tool should be used. We use riv nuts on tons of our equipment here at work. Much quicker installing them than drilling and tapping a hole. Plus, they're mainly used on thin sheet metal where you can't get enough threads to tap since the metal is so thin.

 

Cool, that will have to be done to get the sway bar back on , as, at least on my truck, those bolts are in the boxed portion of the frame itself, not a crossmember that i can replace. im currently looking for an oxy torch to get the last two nuts out to get the swaybar off, once thats done i can get the new coilovers in and get it aligned, then i will be able to bring it to mobtown to have the replacement nuts welded in, as its not currently drivable. @Mobtown Offroad send me a list of parts/materials ill need for that so when i make it over there i have everything, ill also have 4 holes in the side of the frame to be patched as well, about 4" x 4"... had to cut holes in the frame to get at the nuts...

 

I just need to know what size bolts were there in the first place and how many so I can get weld nuts to match them. I know they'll be metric and if you don't care, I will most likely replace with SAE hardware since I already have weld nuts and bolts from #10-32 up to 1/2-13. Also, where ever you cut, send me pictures showing length and width as well as quantity. I will run the 1/4" plate at work on the plasma table instead of trying to cut it at home.

 

14mm bolts, i will post the pics here once i get all the bolts out, as it may or may not require more holes, not sure yet

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ar15xar10s-garage-sale-thread-2nd-gen-parts.392538/

 

Lol that's a crappy garage sale Where's the aftermarket parts Lol

 

On the truck ya dope!

Coming from the guy with the newest and most stock truck here....smh

 

He does have lots of extra horsy power from aftermarket DV decals

 

Hey Where's your HomerTaco grill? That's what I thought lol

 

I think it's coming along nicely for only have 11k miles on it lol

 

Where is it? On my fucking truck. Shows how much you pay attention.

 

Is just me or does the chrome surround and grill look larger than painted 1in the pics

 

Everyone mentions that...its because the grills are so massive, i'm standing away from them, holding the camera at an angle....because i couldn't be over top of them to get the appropriate angle. Thats why i include installed pictures.

@HomerTaco can attest that (at least the particular model i went with) they are thinner, lighter, and lower profile but fit the same area on the vehicle and utilize the same mounting locations.

 

Its also because the grill style i chose does not utilize the bottom center support like you can see poking out of the factory grill bottom. That way you're more able to install it if you have an aftermarket front bumper

 

Oh snap about time lol

 

Friendly reminder, this is only 10 days away...
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rausch-creek-weekend-of-october-2-whos-in.387977/#post-10656523

 

Reported.

I recon mine was in Craig's garage when you went to get yours