Questions for the new 2016

So i just purchased a new 2016 tacoma off-road.. i want to put leds into the projector headlights.. since they are factory projectors, how is the cut off for leds? or hids? does it do any cutoff?
Has anyone added any new accessories or mods to their 3rd gen yet? if so post something.
and finally where can i find myself aftermarket shocks (trustworthy) and leveling kit

 

why did you buy the off road if you are going to replace everything?

 

Dont know yest about the LED's but they are on their way. The issue is that there is about 1.5 to 2 inches of clearance behind the low beam projectors. So I only ordered 1 set to try them out. If it doesn't fit then I'll use them in the high beams. Also bought LED wedge bulbs for the taillights. We will see if they work. Shocks are a choice. Name your poison!

 

Hi SamB,

Could you let us know how you make out with the LEDs in the headlights, this is definately something I want to do.

Cheers

 

The ones I am getting are on backorder. Estimated in stock is the 5th so its going to be another week or 2.

 

Thanks Sam B...

 

The tail light LED's were a flop. Need to investigate. No load so the turn signals blink fast. Have not had time to look into it. Otherwise they are twice as bright as the incandescent.

 

I had the same problem when I put LED Turn Signals in my Rogue, they blinked fast so I had to put an in-line fuse in the LED Bulb Assembly to increase the load so Rogue did not think a bulb was burnt out, that solved the problem, those were Triton VLEDS that I had for the front signals.

I used VLEDS for the back turn signals that had the load resistor built into the bulb base for the same reason, not enough room for the Tritons in the back.

The LEDS suck a lot less power so the vehicle thinks a bulb is burnt out and goes to rapid blink to let you know...

 

The Tritons were plug-n-play and they also include the fuse...

 

They aren't fuses. They use load resistors to add the missing load. The only issue is where you mount those resistors as they get SUPER hot when in use, Adding a fuse is just adding a wire

 

The thing I plugged into the in-line fuse holder in the VLED Triton system looked exactly like a red fuse to me with 5A stamped on the side of it... Just Saying

 

I'd like to see how these all work out...and how you made everything work?

 

I should also add that everything was included and already assembled complete with the in-line holder for the (Fuse, Resistor, Thing-a-ma-jig), a simple Plug-n-Play set-up.

If memory serves me correctly the instructions said to only add the fuse if you have the rapid blink problem.

The fuse does does not get hot, what can get hot is the Transformer that steps the power down from 12V to a lower voltage. It only gets hot if the lights are on steady like you have your hazards on and leave them on for an extended period of time.

Just so we are clear I am talking about the VLEDS.

 

E-locker

 

The fuse is just a fuse. The resistor "thing-a-ma-jig" is the load resistor that provids a proper load for the CANBUS system to fool the ECU that there is an actual filament (another resistor that gets hot and lights up) is on.

This is important to understand as those Load resistors get HOT FAST,,Like the "fire" in an incandescent bulb that lights your way,

Like you did, I would not buy a turn signal LED without an attached load resistor on a heat sink.

I don't know whats up with VLEDS but they suddenly raised all their prices.

 

Most likely the fast blink rate with LEDs is due to the flasher module. An electronic flasher relay is needed to correct this. Standard flasher modules are mechanically operated. That is there is a bi-metallic strip that heats up due to the resistance of the incandescent filament. As the current heats up this metal strip it expands and breaks contact...light goes out. As the strip cools, contact is again made and current is restored to the bulb and it lights back up. Electronic flasher module does not rely on the current so they work fine for LEDs. I found this out the hard way when I put LEDs in my 87 wrangler.

 

You are wrong, the 5A fuse that you are instructed to install ONLY if you get the fast blink does not GET HOT!

I ran these for a year until I sold the vehicle, it was a 5AMP Fuse you installed if you got the fast blink...

The only thing that MAY get hot is the transformer that comes with the Tritons that steps the voltage down going to the lights down from 12V to 9V (I think it's 9V).

No melting wires, no fire, no burning smell, no indication of heat build up!

 

You do not need to install an electronic flasher to stop the fast blink although you can install it in some vehicles if you really want too.

Some vehicles do not even use a "Flasher" anymore, the flasher unit has been replaced by something that is incorporated into the electonics (The 2014 Rogue does not have a Flashing Unit you can replace).

If you use VLEDS all you need to do is install the fuse that comes with the set (I am referring to the Tritons) or, if you don't have room for the Tritons they sell a turn indicator bulb that comes with the resistor built in so you just take the old bulb out and install the new LED light and no fast blink.

 

IMHO they make a top tier product and you get what you pay for.