Rust?

I have experience with sprayed in bed liners and would not recommend them on used vehicles in areas that are heavily salted....but CA. Have at it. As long as it has not spent a winter in salt, it should be fine for the surface area on top. We use it on trucks carrying firewood but try to get it applied before it goes through a winter here. That's not an issue for you.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...s-and-protectants/heavy-duty-metal-protector/

This is what I'm planning to use as soon as I drive from the dealership next month. I'm in northeast Ohio and the temperature swings with lake effect snow requiring tons of salt kill truck frames here. Last year we completely depleted our salt reserve for the year in middle January. Everyone has their solution, there are multiple ones out there that do a good job, it's like tires and motor oils, most do a good job, some better than others but usually marginally. It all comes down to personal experience and effectiveness of cost. Just my .02

 

Hell Toyota puts wax inside panels now

 

I don't have access to a lift or pit. How easy is it to spray FF or other rust preventatives just crawling under the truck?

 

That's how I do it. It's not hard.

 

That's how I just did it too and agree it isn't hard. I put two tarps down on my yard then drove the truck on them before applying. It really saved on my back versus crawling around in concrete.

I bought a gallon and brushed it on then used spray cans with the 360 degree nozzle for the boxed frame sections.

 

I was thinking about getting a low riding creeper.

 

You are right.....your area is similar

that's before assembly and before usa

And workmanship. My avatar is my now sold, 11 year old 4 Runner which sold for top dollar becasue it was rust free and driven every winter in central Maine. Not only on the frame, but all body panels, rockers doors, fender areas, you name it, not one speck of rust or bubbling. I saved thousands of dollars come sales time because the cars we trade, ( last year my wife's ten year old RAV ) look like new. My oldest project was a 16 year old Corolla, which are rustoholics, I handed over to my son after 10 years and 120k miles. At 15 years, it not only ran like a top, but was rust free, even though he didn't treat it the final four years he had it. The paint on the hood looked rough after we spray canned it following a exploding battery acid episode that took the paint right off the hood. Yearly rust prevention maintenance works.

I t pays if you do it yourself more then paying hundreds a year to have someone else. We are living in a good time and products are out there that are environmentally friendly are available. It's easy work, takes no more time then an oil change and it's like paying your self $200 an hour.

 

First of all, this is an outstanding post and thanks for taking the time. I read this and think, thank you God I live in a place where rust is not an issue. With that said, I spray 2 aerosol cans of FF every 6 months. When I take the truck for an oil change they always ask what the heck is all over my frame. I must be the only guy in San Diego undercoating his truck. That's what being a TW addict and reading all these rust horror stories will do I guess.

Also wanted to say thanks to @DoorDing for always posting well thought out informative facts based on actual experience. That FF video was great

 

Number one....wear safety goggles ..;-)))))

 

I am hoping that the high strength steel, like hardened nuts and bolts, is more corrosion resistant becasue of mechanical advantages instead of alloys like a higher percent of Chrominum. I would still treat the frame yearly but Toyota has to be sensitive to the issue. With plastic fender liners and plastic bed, they were years ahead of everyone else in this area. Customer opinions have to be taken into account ! As years go by, it will be interesting to see how the newer steel holds up.

 

The effectiveness of FF lies in part because in spray cans and under pressure it is atomized where the tiny particles can easily be breathed into lungs and eyes. A garden sprayer leaves the solution in liquid form with fewer if the application health problems. Essentially, you are applying a liquid wax job under your car far with FF as opposed to an oil treat ment. You can be your own judge as to realize effect ness.

 

I've made this for my current truck, been on there for about a year now and its still on the frame.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2043211

 

Dont think so, I didn't add it

 

What product aND procedure do you use?

 

I use a garden sprayer and biodegradable G-oil motor oil. There are many, many other alternatives that are as environmentally friendly including linseed oil. Never use any non environmentally friendly product including used motor oil. This is very toxic to both handler and the environment. Oiling got a bad name and was discouraged becasue of this use.

The advantage of oil is that it's viscosity allows it to creep from one forward drain hole in a door to the back one. You generally need to be as concerned with body panels ( fenders, liners, rockers, quarters and metal bumpers and hardware ) as the frame. Because one rust through or even a bubble, can drop the trade in value by a thousand dollars.Red wheel bearing grease can simply be painted on exposed areas with a foam brush. That stuff clings, resists washing away and depending on your thickness, last a very long time in protected areas.

It's generally a yearly application though I have often taken as many as three years "off" with no difference in rust prevention. Greasing the bolt heads and nuts of hardware including tow hitches and suspension components lasts a very long time. When selling a ten to 15 year old car or truck with no rust in high rust areas, there is a huge advantage. It takes about two quarts of oil and a minimal amount of grease to effectively do a truck, and one quart of oil other wise for unibody constructed cars.

We are talking less then ten dollars per application after the investment in a dedicated garden sprayer. And, it is completely safe to work with. You should wear eye protection but the low pressure spray means there is no problem breathing in particals. My sprayer is thirty years old..... It has to be inexpensive to be effective because dumping a hundred or two every year for someone else doing it lessens the cost effectiness of the whole idea of rust prevention.

 

Because you insist on not looking at inexpensive alternatives that are safer, as effective in most cases and more effective in some.
Because it's costly and by your own admission, it irritates eyes and lungs with the overspraying. It is a "wax job". I have friends that use it for it's intended purpose, but also use the method of oil as well. I have seen the results and watched them apply it....AFTER they oiled the other areas. It is essentially a wax job for underneath the car and according to the manufacturer, one pressure wash underneath can remove much of it. You should only rinse the car. You keep asking me if I have used the stuff...I have done the research, seen the results and watched it in application. Why should I spend the money to invest in something I don't intend using. There is no one size fits all vs rust. You use different approaches. You want to,promote this as a one product does everything.....it does not.

 

What is this utter bullshit ? . You keep saying I miss represent it, but you have never said what it was. Everything I have said about it, I took from your references and every time I ask for a specific false hood, you keep referring to "you have no experience reply. " or you don't know what you are talking about. Well, all you know about it is from the adds which you obviously have not read as close as I have.....otherwise, you would be using more proper breathing and eye protection.

It needs or is recomended to be applied under pressure and it irritates eyes and lungs of the user, it is expensive, pressure washers can wash away, there fore it can only be rinsed. and, you have that fancy word that describes exactly what I claimed about it's viscosity.

Now, when you rant back...just be specific out it. Yes, a friend who has antique cars has applied it by brush to areas of his cars that he keeps in storage. He also keeps spray cans of it around to "wax cover these cars and help maintain their good looks. But, the cars he actually drives where salt is present., he oils and greases as well. I believe it is not as effective as my methods...that is from my experience which seems to be much more then yours and not depended upon adversiments.

 

Rust Cure Formula 3000 FTW

Just picked up 3 more cans from Cantonese Tire

 

It's true , gonna tackle the frame and under carriage next week when it stops raining