Long Travel BS Thread

May be I should look at the instructions then. Thanks, time to burn them in.

Edit: I see what your saying. Found the instructions.

 

Mine was burned in while it was assembled like this. Keeps everything lined up nicely.

 

Great idea. I was going to tac and remove the uca then stitch weld them in. But I'll set it up like that. Thanks for the tip.

 

Yes do that!!! Otherwise its likely it when you go to put the uca im

 

Jeff, I am probably going to wait for a good deal on a Tundra axle, since they have the right bolt pattern, brakes, etc.. I dont make a lot of power with my 4 cylinders of fury either. If I destroy it then its fab housing time but I think I will be fine with the way I drive.

 

Im surprised the interest in tundra/t100 housings over the ford 9" housings from everyone. The lug pattern is an inexpensive fix.

 

Go on...

 

Weld up holes, drill new ones and your done

 

Yes, most any machine shop can fill and drill your flanges for 6 on 5.5 fairly inexpensively. I want to say a 13" chevy rotor and an 80's gm caliper will complete the disc swap. Ruff stuff has caliper mounts. Simple stuff.

 

I put an .008" shim in there on each side to make install easy after welding.

I need to stay out of here. Makes me want to spend more money.

 

Lug pattern, drive shaft pattern, and larger brakes all add to the equation. I don't think that my 15" wheels will clear a 13" rotor either. The cost of re-drilling axles, new drive shaft yoke, and (6) new wheels/tires makes me lean towards a Tundra axle vice a 9" due to cost.

Now that I said that, I will probably grenade a Tundra axle at a TW meet and hear about it forever.

 

I never actually asked how to properly cycle the front. So correct me if i'm wrong, but I need to pull the spring off and take out all the nitrogen. To property cycle the front.

 

Yup.

 

I usually either do a .010" shim and I have a couple of 1.510" spacers I made for shock mounts. Makes everything easy to install/uninstall.

 

Is it more important for caster to match side to side or camber?

Or am I better giving some of each in order to match left/right on both?

 

Ok so total noob question i think but F it ill ask, im gonna do the TC coil bucket gussets this winter. taking off just the uppers wont mess up the alignment right?
Also a second question is, does anyone know of anyone that makes fender well liners/skirts out of aluminum? or just the factory plastic with clips? Was just looking at the goofy wheel wells and thought about it, but im gonna clean them up and paint them for now, just thought it would be sweet to have some sweet panels like the gnar race trucks

 

If your uppers are heimed, I bolting them will be fine as long as you don't unscrew the heims themselves. If you have bushings, you can use a paint pen to try and mark the alignment tabs to re-align.

Only off the shelf aluminum or aftermarket inner fenders I know of are for Raptors, everything else is custom. Hard to make a one size fits all for different kits, shocks, engines, fender styles, etc.

 

There arent alignment tabs on the upper..

 

Honestly, if you're going to go as far as getting aluminum inner fenders made, you might as well cut out stock core support and do a tube core support/engine cage/ and cutout the inner fenders, make a structure to hang your fiberglass fenders from and do the aluminum inner fenders off of that structure. Obviously way more work but thats what I want to do personally.

 

Thin aluminum is really pretty easy to work with...